Ford 1500/1700 injector pump

[lowflying90]

i'll try to remember to take the camera to get pictures when i go out to the farm this week.

 

[lowflying90]

here are pictures of the ford 1500 (dirty on the left)and ford 1700 (clean one on the right) injector pumps.

 

[Texas Blues]

Hmmm, neither one have the fill and drain plugs like JC's and mine. Do you know what year model they happen to be? I would at least add the reccomended amount of oil through the vent at the top until you figure out why those plugs are not there.

 

[JC-jetro]

That's pretty strange but I'm sure there is a good reason behind it that we don't know. There is another slotted bolt above the level and drain point that I don't know what the function of it is. I see sign of screwdriver use on it and previous owner monkeyed with a bit but I could not locate it or it's function on pump diagram. I think it bleeds the air from fuel passage same as the air bleed hole you have on top just below two discharge pipe connection. All I can say may be there is an overflow pipe from the opposite side of the pump that is plumbed in to engine block taking overflow oil to crankcase. If that is the case by simply filling it from the top over flow will take the extra oil back to crankcase. in that case you can add new oil right over the old rather than replacing old oil.

Jeff, Can you see an overflow pipe from the opposite side of the pump? By the way if you put the camera on Macro you should be able to get crisp and focused pic from close. I sure like to open a pump up and have a looksy inside but hate to screw my pump up


JC,

 

[lowflying90]

i'll be out there this weekend. i'll see if i can see an overflow line or what not on the back side of the pump.

 

[lowflying90]

i don't see anything that stands out as being an overflow hose. can someone post a picture to show me where to look.

 

[Texas Blues]

Its probably not there then. We cant tell by looking at your two pictures, do your pumps have a vent at the top like the pictures JC posted? Maybe take a few more pictures of yours showing the whole pump assembly, your pics are cut off at the top and are blurry. When the pump is mounted, there is not alot of room behind the pump, if there was a hose it would have to be either on the top of the pump or the front. Thanks, TB

 

[JC-jetro]

Well Guys,

We're almost bamboozled by this thing but I'm sure there is a good explanation that I don't know. I know for a fact there was another guy with the same pump configuration for 1700. I'm searching for it to see what i can come with. By the way last week I did an oil change and for the heck of it I changed injector oil as well after 50 hrs. I also got my air bottle and with a nozzle pushed some compressed air in and got additional two more spoons of oil out of the pump. What I can tell there was hardly any resistance to air flow thinking bulb syringe and a small tube might do the trick by sucking up the oil rather than draining it. I will test my theory sometime.

JC,

I don't want to hijack this thread but I'm sure this thread is visited only by 1700 owners so I'll add a few picture that you might find it useful. The transmission and diffy have a cover plate. i was curious if I could see PTO coupler. while I was tending my garden I stopped by and got the wrenches out. I did not see the fork but I saw transmission output shaft and below it in the hyd oil felt the PTO shaft. I was pleasantly surprised to see condition of a 30 yr old tractor innards. It really shows quality of casting, metal quality, nice workmanship and great machining. The fact that the tractor never sat outside under the weather is important but just wondering if they manufacture them like that anymore.

 

[Texas Blues]

Pretty nice JC. You have to admit it, the Japanese really know how to put something together! Hopefully mine looks that good inside. Speaking of pto's, do you ever have your pto disengage while using it? When im mowing the pasture, my pto will disengage (lever moves to a disengaged position also). The lever does not go all the way to the disengaged position, but far enough for the pto to stop. It reengages just fine when I push the lever. This last time out, I put a bungie cord on the lever to keep it engaged and that seemed to work ok. Not sure there is an adjustment for that, any ideas? I have noticed that the lever does have to go pretty far to engage the pto, its almost like it needs about another half inch of throw on the lever but can only move so far in that bracket. Thanks! TB

 

[JC-jetro]

Pretty nice JC. You have to admit it, the Japanese really know how to put something together! Hopefully mine looks that good inside. Speaking of pto's, do you ever have your pto disengage while using it? When im mowing the pasture, my pto will disengage (lever moves to a disengaged position also). The lever does not go all the way to the disengaged position, but far enough for the pto to stop. It reengages just fine when I push the lever. This last time out, I put a bungie cord on the lever to keep it engaged and that seemed to work ok. Not sure there is an adjustment for that, any ideas? I have noticed that the lever does have to go pretty far to engage the pto, its almost like it needs about another half inch of throw on the lever but can only move so far in that bracket. Thanks! TB

TB,

there is a reason for it. Look at the attached PDF, look at #44 &45. There is
a ball and spring that acts as a detent mechanism to keep pto shifter rod positively locked in one position. section of the ball will fall into round concave carving on the shaft to keep it in that position. I have not done on my PTO but had to do it on my shifter that was stuck in between gear. Instead of using brute force I loosened the holding bolt, withdrew the spring and the ball with a help of magnet and noticed the ball was slightly out of round. replaced it and I was good to go. I'm fixing to leave home in a few minutes. will look to see if I have a pic.

JC,