Ford 1700 fan pulley

[JC-jetro]

View attachment 277113View attachment 277114

Last of water pump pictures. If you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them or take other picture angles for you. The only thing that I can come up with regarding the small bolt in shaft housing is to position what appears to be a bushing. The rubber seal with spring butts up against the inner end of this bushing. Sound reasonable to you? Jerel

Thanks for the great pictures. What is "small bolt in the shaft housing"? The rubber seal and spring is part of the mechanical shaft seal that is water lubricated. White seal appears ceramic to me, right? I see the ball bearing but not inner or outer race of the bearing itself. Would be hard to reman it without proper parts. You're going to put a new one in there anyway, but thanks a lot doing a postmortem for me.

JC,

 

[JLWjr]

Thanks for the great pictures. What is "small bolt in the shaft housing"? The rubber seal and spring is part of the mechanical shaft seal that is water lubricated. White seal appears ceramic to me, right? I see the ball bearing but not inner or outer race of the bearing itself. Would be hard to reman it without proper parts. You're going to put a new one in there anyway, but thanks a lot doing a postmortem for me.

JC,

The small locking bolt we discussed before(see you post #2 in this thread). The white seal is flexable. Could it be ceramic and be flexable? Didn't see anything that looked like a race other than than what you see in the pictures. Unless what I would call metal seals would also races. Have enjoyed sharing this project with you. Will post further as I continue repairs.

 

[JC-jetro]

The small locking bolt we discussed before(see you post #2 in this thread). The white seal is flexable. Could it be ceramic and be flexable? Didn't see anything that looked like a race other than than what you see in the pictures. Unless what I would call metal seals would also races. Have enjoyed sharing this project with you. Will post further as I continue repairs.

Same here Jerel If the seal is soft then it can't be ceramic. Were the ball bearing all around the spring. It seems the metal pieces on either side of the spring is the outer race. Look at the pic below. Is that the nut what you have difficulty with tightening? is so liook at the stud that has a slot in, You can use a combination of Box end wrench around the nut and a screwdriver to keep the stud in place( same as adjusting valve lash). by doing so you can tighten that nut.

if the slot is not there on your tractor then you can use a dremmel tool with a small cutting wheel and make a slot wide enough for a screwdriver.


JC,

 

[JLWjr]

I believe that the ball bearings were on outer sides of the spring. The nut that I am having difficulty with is the lower one. It is the one that is difficult to get to because of the oil filter mount. The bolt is not slotted and none of it protrudes beyond the outer surface of the nut. I will pull the oil filter and see if I can get to it with vise-grips. If that doesn't work, I'll try the silicone to stop seepage. Thanks, Jerel

 

[JC-jetro]

I believe that the ball bearings were on outer sides of the spring. The nut that I am having difficulty with is the lower one. It is the one that is difficult to get to because of the oil filter mount. The bolt is not slotted and none of it protrudes beyond the outer surface of the nut. I will pull the oil filter and see if I can get to it with vise-grips. If that doesn't work, I'll try the silicone to stop seepage. Thanks, Jerel

Jerel,


Got it . two thing that I can suggest.

1) it appears that you have two washers with the nut and one of them being a lock washer. Are you able to loosen the nut and remove entirely (Obviosly you want to take care on not dropping the bolt back in to timing cover), then grab the bolt by a locking needle nose pliers and make a slot for tightening purpose using dremmel like suggested before.

2) Would not recommend an impact wrench for a situation like that at all but impact force might be enough to tighten the nut. I'd take a long 1/4"extension, transition at the tip to the right socket and then use a drill with the clutch, set the clutch to low torque setting where it would never shear off the bolt and try it. I might gradually increase the clutch torque to see where that grabs. That action does better in tightening it than a regular box end wrench.

I'd start myself with the second method first since it's quite easier.

JC,

 

[JLWjr]

JC,
Thanks for the good suggestions. I'll see what I can do. The new water pump is on the way. I'll be working on finding replacement hoses and other general maintaince until the pump gets here. I'll let you know how everything works out. I also need a new seat. I tried tractor supply but couldn't find anything that would work, even took the tractor to the store and the let me try the seats that they had. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Jerel

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,
Thanks for the good suggestions. I'll see what I can do. The new water pump is on the way. I'll be working on finding replacement hoses and other general maintaince until the pump gets here. I'll let you know how everything works out. I also need a new seat. I tried tractor supply but couldn't find anything that would work, even took the tractor to the store and the let me try the seats that they had. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Jerel

I hope my 2nd suggestion works for you. if you have the bracket that the seat is attached to then you can modify what ever you'll have to make a seat. I like to look at things in a utilitarian manner. I have access to metal brake and different odd pieces of sheet metal and angle irons and such. I can weld so I'll probably make something and padded and cover it with something. I can even envision making it out of plywood, same as wood furniture*. I'd reinforce the holes on the seat where they attach to the bracket with 2 large flat washer to beef it up. My oem is a just piece of stamped Aluminum I think (not 100% sure) with some molded plastic cover. let me know if you want to see picture of the bracket for the seat to give you some ideas. I think pretty much whatever seat you find can somehow make it work. do you have a welder?

JC,

* I'm refereed to a hillbilly engineer from time to time.

 

[drakefamily2]

Here is a seat on ebay FORD NEW HOLLAND COMPACT TRACTOR SEAT FD4-1 1200 1500 1700 1900 1910 2000 | eBay

 

[JLWjr]

Same here Jerel If the seal is soft then it can't be ceramic. Were the ball bearing all around the spring. It seems the metal pieces on either side of the spring is the outer race. Look at the pic below. Is that the nut what you have difficulty with tightening? is so liook at the stud that has a slot in, You can use a combination of Box end wrench around the nut and a screwdriver to keep the stud in place( same as adjusting valve lash). by doing so you can tighten that nut.

if the slot is not there on your tractor then you can use a dremmel tool with a small cutting wheel and make a slot wide enough for a screwdriver.


JC,

JC,
I was able to cut a slot in the end of the bolt; had to engineer some leverage to apply enough preasure against the screwdriver to keep the bolt from turning as I tightened the nut. I was able to tighten it at least as much as the other 2 mounting bolts are.
The new water pump is installed and tractor is running fine. I would have changed the radiator hoses and fan belt while I had them off, but was unable to find any suitable replacements locally. I'll just run the old ones until they have to be replaced. Thanks for all your suggestions, Jerel

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,
I was able to cut a slot in the end of the bolt; had to engineer some leverage to apply enough preasure against the screwdriver to keep the bolt from turning as I tightened the nut. I was able to tighten it at least as much as the other 2 mounting bolts are.
The new water pump is installed and tractor is running fine. I would have changed the radiator hoses and fan belt while I had them off, but was unable to find any suitable replacements locally. I'll just run the old ones until they have to be replaced. Thanks for all your suggestions, Jerel

cool:thumbsup: Success at last. If you have a period that you do not need the tractor, then you can drain the radiator at it's drain point and a bit out of the block to take out the hoses without losing a drop of coolant. You can take two hoses to any automotive store and I bet ya in about 5 minutes you'll be able to find something that you can trim and use. I have not checked for online sources but I'm sure you;ll be able to find. I'm glad you were able to cut a slot to tighten the nut as other alternative were rather ugly... needed to take hyd pump out, crankshaft pulley at the least to take the timing gear cover off and new gasket .... just too much work.


JC,