Ford 2000 power steering overflow

[Ultradog MN]

I should have followed this thread a little more. Might, coulda, shoulda convinced you to go a litle farther into it since you already had the cowel, etc off.
There is another seal - part #13 - BELOW the hyd actuator block that fails too. Fills the lower end of the column with ps fluid when it fails. I always replace the seals in those columns as a pair. I also never open a column without removing the hydraulic block and cleaning it. They collect lots of gunk, rust, etc over the years and will contribute to steering problems like you mention.
If you haven't replaced the cowel yet I suggest you go one level lower and do it all - not just half ways.
If you are not comfortable with it email me your phone# and I would gladly talk you through the whole process. I've been into those columns numerous times.

This darned site wont let me post a gif file. Grrr!
See the exploded view of that column - including part #13 here:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/3000 and 3400/steeringcolumn.jpg

 

[jcw]

I put a new seal kit in my ford 2000 tractor power sterring pump and ithink when I reassembled the pump I may have turn the figure 8 pieces in pump on wrong end of shalfs. do you have a picture of which way they go? I do not have any pressure.

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

jcw - you went further than me. I just changed the shaft seals last year with the help of TBN friends. All is still well. Good luck.

 

[30coupe]

I used a 99087 Speedi-sleeve that touched all the way around, but fit loose (glad I had the loctite).

Was this an SKF 99087 Speedi-sleeve? I have to do the same repair to my 2000, so I want to make sure I get the right one.

Thanks in advance.

Russ

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

Hi Russ
Yes, SKF - I don't remember which loctite, but it was a bit thin for as much wear as the steering column had. Buy a gel one if they have it. Also, make sure to measure carefully for the placement of the sleeve so that it matches the seal. It sits higher up the column than you might think (hence the thicker loctite - the sleeve wanted to slide down the column). My repair has held for a year now. Good Luck

 

[30coupe]

Thanks! I'm thinking of using JB Weld instead of loctite to better fill any pits I may find. I found this instructional PDF on the ntractor forum. He also stressed the careful measurement. I haven't started to take anything apart yet. I still need to use the tractor, so I want to wait until I have all the parts on hand. Did you change the lower seal as well? I wasn't planning on it if I don't have to. My manual also recommends a new bushing at the top of the column. I'm not sure why that would need to be replaced. Thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Russ

 

[Soundguy]

don't even do it if you are not going to service all the seals.... I'd i'd go with loctite sleeve retainer.. not jbweld...

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

While I didn't do all the seals, the repair was definitely worth doing, i.e., my tractor now works! I would defer to Soundguys expertise over mine. It was really easy to get to the seals I worked on (three bolts), the next level down scared me. Someday I might regret it, but not today.

As for the top bushing, my tractor hasn't been inside in at least a decade (or maybe ever) and I wanted to keep the weather out, so that was important to me. I also changed the rubber boot.