Ford 2N - 1945

   / Ford 2N - 1945 #11  
if alot of sludge.. might be time to drop the pump and clean out for real..
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945 #13  
yep.. seal is a 15 $ 10 minute dieal assuming bearing is good.. which they usually are.. etc.
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945
  • Thread Starter
#14  
A good cleaning has fixed things for me in the past. Out of town for another week, then I plan to open it up for cleaning. Guess I'll order a PTO seal to be ready, and check out the manuals for the gaskets.
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945 #15  
check bearings by tugging up / down on the shaft before just ordering a seal.

if bearings are bad.. you may want a new shaft assy...

soundguy
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Finally took the pump out. (Had to use the bush hog to clear some brush before taking it apart...) Pressure reading was about 100 PSI at the test port.

The hydraulic control valve shaft is bent. A small groove has developed around the contact surface of the valve. Since the shaft is bent, the valve only seats on one side inside of the bushing and it has worn a shiny spot there. Got a 9N640 on order.
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945 #17  
sounds like you are on top of it!
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945
  • Thread Starter
#18  
We'll see. While I'm waiting for the part & gaskets to arrive, I have a couple of other questions.

1) When installing the pump back into the tractor, how do I get air out of the lines?

2) Is there some way to bench test of the pump before installing it, to check for leaks?

Cleon


I found a '52 8N for a price I couldn't refuse. It was supposed to be running before someone attempted a 6V to 12V conversion. Although newer than my 2N , it looks older. Anyway, I was considering splitting the two and then just swapping rear ends, to get working hydraulics on the 2N. (and use it as a source for spare parts) Not planning to swap at this time, since the control valve R&R is fairly easy. I have taken the 8N pump apart and the contact surfaces don't look too bad to me, whatever that is worth. After the 2N, I may put a little time & $ in the 8N to test it, (very little or part it out). The 8N lift cover is broken at the triangle that meets the draft control spring, but may work for mowing, missing battery, some wiring, copper tube, head lights. Again, we'll see.
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945 #19  
lines? the pump intake will be below oil level inthe sump.. only 'line' there is is a standpipe going to the top cyl thru a casting AFTER the pump.. and rest assured.. it will self bleed.

in the super super super extremely rare case it won't self bleed, you can loosen a chanber plug.. etc.. 99.9999999999999999% of the itme not needed..

soundguy
 
   / Ford 2N - 1945 #20  
I cant really add any info on your 2n issue, and it seems you are on top of it, but I am interested in hearing about the 8n.

If it is just the wiring messed up, you can get a whole new harness for like $20:thumbsup:

Do you know what year it is?
Side mount distributor is a newer one

Does it have a sherman? That would be a lever on the side of the transmission just forward of the clutch pedal. It is a pretty desirable option:thumbsup:

And one more thing to add, if ya didnt know, the N's had a transmission driven PTO, so you need an over-running-coupler on the PTO. Otherwise, when you are mowing along and hit the clutch to stop, the momentum of the bushhog blades will continue to drive the tractor because the PTO is connected to the transmission. All the clutch does is disconnect the engine.

Good luck with your tractors, and we like pics too:thumbsup:
 
 
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