Ford 3600 gas adding in-line fuel filter

[Soundguy]

Well, make sure there is no resistor wire in the harness.

The 000 series 3 cyls were 12v, but used a 6v coil, bypass solenoid and a resistor wire folded in the harness. I dint know if the 3600 kept the wire and 6 v coil or not. If yes, you either need a 6v coil, or bypass the resistor wire and run a 12v coil. The 12v coil I lil is a Napa ic14sb.

Check first

 

[cnestor1]

Well, make sure there is no resistor wire in the harness.

The 000 series 3 cyls were 12v, but used a 6v coil, bypass solenoid and a resistor wire folded in the harness. I dint know if the 3600 kept the wire and 6 v coil or not. If yes, you either need a 6v coil, or bypass the resistor wire and run a 12v coil. The 12v coil I lil is a Napa ic14sb.

Check first

I'm getting more confused by the minute. Probably due to my weak understanding of circuits and electronics in general. The coil I got from NAPA is listed as for 12 volt systems; it has no included resistor in the coil, and warns that an external resistor will be needed/advised. Thanks for the tip that the resistor would be in the harness. I'll look for that. That's what the schematic I looked at suggested to me. If I get it to start and run (I already installed it but haven't gotten things so that I'm ready to try firing it yet) am I right in thinking that the damage would be to the plugs? What else am I putting at risk, if you happen to know? I'll chase down the correct item later once I get her happy and running if I'm not putting things at much risk.

My serial number is a "C" prefix. According to what I've read there are 3 possible prefixes: A, B, and C. Here's hoping C was the good plant. Ha.

Thanks for the help, Soundguy.

Chris in Richmond, VA.

 

[RickB]

Well, make sure there is no resistor wire in the harness.

The 000 series 3 cyls were 12v, but used a 6v coil, bypass solenoid and a resistor wire folded in the harness. I dint know if the 3600 kept the wire and 6 v coil or not. If yes, you either need a 6v coil, or bypass the resistor wire and run a 12v coil. The 12v coil I lil is a Napa ic14sb.

Check first

All post-1965 Ford gassers use the same low resistance coil, resistance wire in the harness, and bypass starting. In fact, all Ford gassers built after the demise of the front mount distributer use the same coil.

 

[cnestor1]

RickB, perfect! Thanks for the info. Then the coil I have should work. I'll let y'all know.

Chris in Richmond, VA.

 

[cnestor1]

She's running! I'm singing the doxology! And thanking all of you generous folks for helping out, too.

The ignition switch is balky so I'm going to replace that. It looks like the alternator is not putting either. My mechanic recommended I go for a more modern one that has the voltage regulator built in. Only one wire to the battery, body grounds it and you're done. The rest of the wiring should be unnecessary according to him. Does anybody have any thoughts or experience in this department. Sounds like a dream solution.

Happy days! I'm almost there! Lots of turtles, snakes, deer and rabbits going to have to find a new bedroom.

Chris in Richmond, VA.

 

[Soundguy]

I'm getting more confused by the minute. Probably due to my weak understanding of circuits and electronics in general. The coil I got from NAPA is listed as for 12 volt systems; it has no included resistor in the coil, and warns that an external resistor will be needed/advised. Thanks for the tip that the resistor would be in the harness. I'll look for that. That's what the schematic I looked at suggested to me. If I get it to start and run (I already installed it but haven't gotten things so that I'm ready to try firing it yet) am I right in thinking that the damage would be to the plugs? What else am I putting at risk, if you happen to know? I'll chase down the correct item later once I get her happy and running if I'm not putting things at much risk.

My serial number is a "C" prefix. According to what I've read there are 3 possible prefixes: A, B, and C. Here's hoping C was the good plant. Ha.

Thanks for the help, Soundguy.

Chris in Richmond, VA.

your 12v coil marked as needing external resistance, as you have now found out, is just a 6v coil and uses that harness resistror that rick confirmed for us was still used. I was thinking it was, but not sure. Knew it was on the older ones.

PS.. it would not be plug damage.. it would be coil damage..... but that's a non issue.

A code is antwerp ( belgium )

B code is Basaldon ( england )

and C is a US plant.

As for the alt not working, check the vreg connections before you start replacing things

 

[cnestor1]

Soundguy: I've taken the alternator off and when you spin it there is no resistance. Is that normal? Does it "engage" when charging and then develop friction and resistance? Thanks for the connections tip on the voltage regulator. I'm looking forward to developing those types of instincts as I learn to do my own troubleshooting.

Aside from getting that to work, any experience with the replacement strategy bypassing the voltage regulator altogether and using the excitatory regulator onboard the one wire (and some 3 wire) alternators sometimes used today. I've read some derogatory comments about the one wire ones. Maybe this is because some idling rpms are in the 600 range and the regulator doesn't even get started until about 850 or so. Then there's the bracket matching, size, pully, belt, and rpm matching thing. I found one online from DB Electrical which claims to work on the 3600 (and a bunch of others) - 43 amp. I also saw a "mini" alternator which put out something in a similar range somewhere. I will check the connections, but I also think I'll have a conversation with the NAPA guy.

I guess what I'm looking for is a bolt on easy, quick solution if there is one. I don't mind spending $100 for a new alternator if it's an upgrade and simplifies things, as well as freshening a part of the electrical system, if that makes any sense.

Chris in Richmond, VA

 

[Soundguy]

the easy soloution is to see if your alt and vreg work, if they do, then chase wiring, if they don't, then decide what you want to do about it.

the gm delco alts are cheap, and should not be a hassle to bolt in if that is what you want to do. wiring 1 or 3 wire are doable... it all depends on how much of the original instrumentation you want to wire into or not.

as for the alt you have.. if it has good ebarings it is suposed to spin. resistance to spin would be based on electrical load once the alt is on/activated.

 

[cnestor1]

Very clear, Soundguy. Thanks for the option summary. I'll let you know what happens.

Chris in Richmond, VA

 

[cnestor1]

Turns out the alternator was bad. When I went to NAPA I got the head guy there and he found a perfect match for my alternator. It was $150, but I was so excited I took it home, hooked it up and she's charging. Guys, the tractor starts as easy as my car! I don't know how to act. This is almost disorienting. I haven't attached or removed a 3 point hitch implement in over a year and a half. The farm is now bush hogged. I have raised beds to prepare and cover crops to put in. Your encouragement and coaching has been invaluable to me. I am most grateful. Thank you all.

Chris in Richmond, VA