Ford New Holland 1720 (and others) Rear Remote Valve

[crael]

I've got a design 90% complete in CAD so just need to finish that up and then machine a prototype. I recently had a job change so this got delayed a bit. Hoping to get back to working on it soon!

Would you post the order information, dual remote for 1996 1720 ford New Holland

 

[tedward4]

Mine both work as well. My 1720 has a bush hog brand loader on it. Ive been looking for remote options though so i can run some other implements.

Do you have any pics with your kit installed? Im curious how the levers will be

Since I don't have a 1720 to put my own kit on, I don't have any pics of the kit with the new levers. I've sold a couple kits in the last few weeks, so hoping I can get a picture from one installed soon.

 

[tedward4]

Would you post the order information, dual remote for 1996 1720 ford New Holland

It's easiest to just send me a PM and we can work out the details. Hoping to get a website going at some point.

 

[Dulka1720]

Hi still wondering if you are making rear remote setup for ford1720? Just rebuilt mine and would like rear hydraulics
thanks
deerparkcreations@gmail.com

 

[tedward4]

Hi still wondering if you are making rear remote setup for ford1720? Just rebuilt mine and would like rear hydraulics
thanks
deerparkcreations@gmail.com

I sent you an email.

 

[oldestgoat]

Got a kit from @tedward4 looking forward to installing on my 1620. Meanwhile I just did a 99% install on my TC33da of an OEM valve I found on the internet and parts I cobbled together. Overall cost was under $300. I got really lucky as the OEM valve is the most expensive part and is hard to find. Mine did not have the lever, linkage or anything specific to my tractor. The hoses are 12" 3/8npt off the internet as are the fittings. The lever is a 3pt lever that was cut and bent to fit the curve of the fender and exit in the right spot. That lever alone from NH is around $200. The adjustable link needs to be around 7" long and can be found on the internet. I got a used NH one for $20 and spliced it to length. I didn't remove the wheel as it is filled and I felt I could access all I need. Once the inner plastic fender shield and the top plate was removed I could reach either around the wheel or through the top of the fender where the levers protrude. The most fiddling was around bending and trimming the re-purposed lever, and measuring/welding the bracket lever on the valve itself. Splicing the linkage went quickly. Probably spent about 4 hours altogether. I still have to fix the location of the quick couplers. Perhaps add a short fitting to even up the hose lengths. I paid $120 for the valve and probably around $150 for the rest. Can't wait to get my top link!

 

[oldestgoat]

one more pic

 

[IDIdiesel]

New member here, I have a mid 1980s 2120 with a loader on it. Recently purchased a 3pt splitter to split wood with. I have a single female remote under the rear right fender but cannot for the life of me figure out how it functions. I have traced the line from the coupler to the distribution block beneath the brake pedal. No valves are on that line which makes me wonder why I'm not getting hydraulic power. A few photos to show what im working with. I can raise /lower the 3pt arms and run the loader without turning a valve. This thread has been the most helpful so far!! If needed i'll be buying the new doual spool vales that are being sold in this thread!!

 

[tedward4]

IDIdiesel, that looks like a power beyond setup, not rear remote. You should be fine to run a log splitter assuming that there is a valve directly on the splitter. I’m not super familiar with the 2120s though so maybe other members have a similar setup and can explain how to get hydraulic flow from the distribution block. I do know that the location where the hose is under the fender is a port to the sump, so it’s at 0 psi.

 

[tedward4]

IDIdiesel, that looks like a power beyond setup, not rear remote. You should be fine to run a log splitter assuming that there is a valve directly on the splitter. I’m not super familiar with the 2120s though so maybe other members have a similar setup and can explain how to get hydraulic flow from the distribution block. I do know that the location where the hose is under the fender is a port to the sump, so it’s at 0 psi.

Sorry, I think I was wrong on my initial response. I think you actually need a power beyond adapter plate. There is one on eBay that fits the 20 series tractors. New Tractor Hydraulic Adapter Plate made to fit Ford 1320 1520 1720 1920 2120 | eBay