Fragger
Silver Member
Sorry ray just read your responses !! Not trying to steal your thunder
GC 2300 wont start
- Thread starter gausspe
- Start date
No problem.
We have all posted first, and read too late.
Someone who has 1700 series electrical knowledge, would be great here.
coldsteelva
Veteran Member
We will all gladly accept and try any plausible ideas. Over 100 in the garage so not much time to mess with it - I'm hoping by the weekend to know if my ignition switch is toast or the starter. I will check the PTO lever too.
Starter failures are extremely rare. I think there has only been one.
I would not replace the starter. (they are big money), without finding someone who can test it.
If you need one, it probably can be rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of new.
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,775
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
This issue has been going round and round on 4 or 5 different threads for years. The true/main problem was very well nailed and described in a thread 3 or 4 months ago (which I'm too lazy to chase.) There MAY be several other causes but I'm going to be pushy here and tell you exactly what the problem is in 99% of the BX series cases with the same symptoms as the OP described. "Clicks but won't turn over."
THE problem is that a full 12v is not getting to the solenoid.
That can be diagnosed many ways as to WHY but that is the core, basic, understanding you need to solve the problem. It is not ground, it is not a bad starter, it is not any of a dozen other theories. Other threads have described solutions. Tapping on the starter, any kind of movement to slightly rotate the starter and jar the solenoid,etc. The BEST seems to be placing a relay connected direct to the 12v source and triggered by the same signal that SHOULD drive the solenoid. Running a direct 12v to the relay bypasses all the various voltage drops at safety interconnects and all that. Those numerous voltage drops and marginal connections are the root cause. Deere is rumored to sell a kit for this purpose. etc , etc.
Just yesterday I had this exact issue with my BX2200. I've been too lazy to go do a wiring job by putting in a relay. This only happens maybe once out of every 15 times you try to start it anyway. Pain, but only so big a pain. I have found that a 10A battery charger hooked across the battery terminals will cause it to start OK every time. No need to "charge" the battery per se, just provide a temporary slightly higher voltage at the 12v source which the charger guarantees.
THE problem is that a full 12v is not getting to the solenoid.
That can be diagnosed many ways as to WHY but that is the core, basic, understanding you need to solve the problem. It is not ground, it is not a bad starter, it is not any of a dozen other theories. Other threads have described solutions. Tapping on the starter, any kind of movement to slightly rotate the starter and jar the solenoid,etc. The BEST seems to be placing a relay connected direct to the 12v source and triggered by the same signal that SHOULD drive the solenoid. Running a direct 12v to the relay bypasses all the various voltage drops at safety interconnects and all that. Those numerous voltage drops and marginal connections are the root cause. Deere is rumored to sell a kit for this purpose. etc , etc.
Just yesterday I had this exact issue with my BX2200. I've been too lazy to go do a wiring job by putting in a relay. This only happens maybe once out of every 15 times you try to start it anyway. Pain, but only so big a pain. I have found that a 10A battery charger hooked across the battery terminals will cause it to start OK every time. No need to "charge" the battery per se, just provide a temporary slightly higher voltage at the 12v source which the charger guarantees.
tomstaplez
New member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2020
- Messages
- 5
- Tractor
- 2013 Gc1710
Hi, my problem was a small ground wire was removed from the frame.
It was located underneath the floor panels, about where your left foot would rest. Wire pulled out of the eye bolt. But was resting nearby. It shoots out of the wire harness that heads to all the electrical stuff on the rear of the tractor.
It was located underneath the floor panels, about where your left foot would rest. Wire pulled out of the eye bolt. But was resting nearby. It shoots out of the wire harness that heads to all the electrical stuff on the rear of the tractor.
Thanks for the update.
coldsteelva
Veteran Member
Here's my final update. I removed the left floor panel, removed and wire brushed the battery/chassis ground (some light corrosion) - replaced the bolt/ground after a light coating of dielectric grease. There is no protection from water splashing up underneath where it can then sit. Once I buttoned that all up - STILL NO START.
Frustrated as could be due to the mid-90s weather (day 15 in a row at that point) and nearly ready to give up in defeat...I took a breath and decided to re-check the neutral safety (originally identified as having been routed poorly and chafed). Closer inspection identified that it had actually been routed and wedged UNDER the fuel tank instead of through the void behind the tank sump under the seat. I pulled/tugged/yanked the cable out from under the fuel tank, in order to reach the connector. I accessed the connector, disconnected the switch, and jumpered the pins - EUREKA!
She fired right up. I let her run for a few minutes while I sheepishly accepted success. For the time being I left the safety jumpered (I'm the only one that operates this tractor) so I could get my 4 acres mowed yesterday and today. I brought the switch inside and stripped off the outer jacket. Only the original chafing was evident and testing with my multimeter revealed that it still produces continuity in only the neutral position so when it gets a little cooler I will re-wrap and replace the switch.
It is highly possible that the white plastic fork (actuated by the range selector) is slightly out of it's original position. In the end, I thank you all for the suggestions. Accessing the chassis ground may have allowed me to correct and head off a future issue.
Frustrated as could be due to the mid-90s weather (day 15 in a row at that point) and nearly ready to give up in defeat...I took a breath and decided to re-check the neutral safety (originally identified as having been routed poorly and chafed). Closer inspection identified that it had actually been routed and wedged UNDER the fuel tank instead of through the void behind the tank sump under the seat. I pulled/tugged/yanked the cable out from under the fuel tank, in order to reach the connector. I accessed the connector, disconnected the switch, and jumpered the pins - EUREKA!
She fired right up. I let her run for a few minutes while I sheepishly accepted success. For the time being I left the safety jumpered (I'm the only one that operates this tractor) so I could get my 4 acres mowed yesterday and today. I brought the switch inside and stripped off the outer jacket. Only the original chafing was evident and testing with my multimeter revealed that it still produces continuity in only the neutral position so when it gets a little cooler I will re-wrap and replace the switch.
It is highly possible that the white plastic fork (actuated by the range selector) is slightly out of it's original position. In the end, I thank you all for the suggestions. Accessing the chassis ground may have allowed me to correct and head off a future issue.
