GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest

   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #11  
Thanks for posting, it was a good read.
Enjoy that Massey, its a nice machine.
Please, keep posting.
dwight
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #12  
<font color="blue"> 1*The fully loaded tractor (with FEL and BH installed) will make marks in the lawn with AG tires on, HOWEVER, repeated passes tend to pack the soil tighter and, over time, the lawn gets somewhat firmer which in my case seems to help things out.
2* I mow without the FEL and BH installed and it doesn't seem to make much difference whether I have the AG or the TURF tires on except for the occasional "Vee" here and there -- as long as it is reasonably dry.
3*I have gotten the tractor severely stuck (read "buried) and had to use the BH to drag it out. No need to panic
Visitor
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1*I've only noticed this if the ground is wet. I also discovered that driving my MTD lawn tractor with turfs over the marks does a good job of rolling them out.
2*I mow with the FEL and BH on with no turf tearing problems.
3*Never had mine stuck.
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   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #13  
<font color="blue">4*I have been toying with the idea of making a hydraulic weed whacker that would attach to the FEL Mike_in_Okla
Visitor
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4* <font color="red"> The following are excerpts from comments I've made about such things.
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Power the head with it's own engine and you can change it from tractor to tractor either as a tow behind or attached or back and forth from one or the other.
Have you thought of using a string trimmer head and motor and eliminating the long curved or straight shaft?

I have a plan in mind for building something like this that solves the shortcoming of having to short of a reach by using and expandable / adjustable longer arm rather that a fixed short one like this and all the other similar devices I've seen have.
It would be universal as it could be mounted to or towed by any tow or host vehicle.
You could even attach it to a FEL or back hoe bucket or MMM or most any other implement.
It could even be used as a tow behind; or as an offset towed or attached.
Like the others it would trim around things such as fences trees etc. But unlike the others it would also trim along and over ditches.

I'm not leaning towards something like a boom mower as the hydraulics required greatly limits the number of host vehicles it could be used on as well as the number of ways it could be attached and or towed.
Now if only I had a welder and could weld I'd make an attempt to implement the plan.
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1*That or a mower suspended from a frame that reaches out over the ditch.
2*I don't think the swisher has enough reach to cover a ditch that's 2 to 5 feet wide and these mowers would simply run into the ditch.
3* That's one reason for suspending the mower using either a boom or a suspended frame attached to the tow tractor.
Heck it could even be attached to one side of a MMM or towed behind like the tow behind mowers.
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It should not matter if the wheels are in the ditch, The mower and all 4 wheels should be riding the slope of the ditch,
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I'm not to concerned with mowing down inside a ditch, just with keeping the top of the weeds/grass growing down inside of the ditch about the same level as the lawn grass.
This is why I'm toying with the idea of an adjustable telescoping arm that extends out over the ditch.
The mowing device would be attached to the underside of this arm.

One of my ditches has sloped sides but the other 2 ditches have sides that are straight up and down.
One of the ditches can be trimmed from either or both sides, but the other 2 can only be approached from one side.
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I'm toying with a combination / fixed tow behind incorporating a telescoping boom.
The unit could be built universal to use as a tow behind or it could easily be attached to the 3 point hitch, loader bucket, mmm , FEL arms, BH or as a tow behind on any tractor riding mower ATV etc.
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   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The FEL tilt cylinders both leaked after 50 hours. )</font>


I believe I read somewhere hidden in TBN that there was a production problem with the 2350 FEL's. I have noticed a little seepage on mine and figured that is was normal. As I am approaching 50 hours I'm left wondering if the seepage will eventually turn into leakage.

How many other 2350 owners have noticed this?
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #15  
I remember asking the question about the soft ground and the tractor's weight back when I was considering buying the 2310TLB.
I wound up renting a larger Deere (4410 I think) which was about the size of MF 15 series. I had no problems getting that stuck so I figured I couldn't sink a 2310 too far and I bought one within a couple weeks. I have not been disappointed! I also broke the left turn signal, I think the best solution is to simply mount them inboard.
Yours is by far one of the most detailed and best reviews of the 2310 TLB out there, thanks for taking the time to post it. I agree MF needs to do better on customer service. I have been happy with my dealer, but like you find the parts dept. woefully lacking when it comes to identifying parts for the 2310. I chalk it up to it being a relatively new tractor. It took about 15 minutes for them to find me the part number for the Hyd oil filter, and the same for the $55 turn signal!
I am close to 50 hrs and so far no problems with leaking FEL cylinders, let's hope it stays that way!
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #16  
I also have a 2310 and it has 300 hrs
The only thing I could ever say bad about it
is that some times it is just a little small.
300 hrs on it now may be I should buy a new one ???????

DougM
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #17  
Responding to my own message here, but I've just returned from visiting a local MF dealer where I purchased a Hydraulic Filter/Charge Assembly (4265229M91) for $19.95.

While there I spoke to one of the technicians (mechanics) about the seals leaking on the 2350 front end loader.

According to the tech, the problem is not with defective cylinders or seals, it's with the way the hydraulic system is connected, I believe he said at the rear, which causes too much pressure being sent to the cylinders.

Apparently it isn't being regulated as it should.

Another thing I asked about was the relief valve buzzing which he said meant that the system had exceeded it's limit for lifting a load.

And I thought when the rear tires came off the gound meant that you had exceeded your load. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif



</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( The FEL tilt cylinders both leaked after 50 hours. )</font>


I believe I read somewhere hidden in TBN that there was a production problem with the 2350 FEL's. I have noticed a little seepage on mine and figured that is was normal. As I am approaching 50 hours I'm left wondering if the seepage will eventually turn into leakage.

How many other 2350 owners have noticed this? )</font>
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #18  
<font color="blue"> I believe he said at the rear, which causes too much pressure being sent to the cylinders. </font>
Sounds like you need to speak with a different mechanic.
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #19  
Either that or pay better attention to what he's saying.

While he was talking about a cylinder instead of a turnbuckle on the 3 point hitch system and the manifold on the transmission, I was listening to something else in my earpiece. He also told me that not all Massey Ferguson tractors and implements are made with the same parts when rolling down the assembly line. For instance the joy stick control. The one on my FEL is a Nimco CV430 and maybe the next one may be a different brand.

Other than this guy not knowing what he's talking about, what's your diagnosis for seal seepage or leaking if it isn't a pressure issue?
 
   / GC-2310 Update -- The latest and greatest #20  
The worse thing that I have seen is the cylinder nut that surrounds the rod isn't tight enough. Usually all it needs is to be tightened.
 
 
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