Generator Transfer switch connection choices

[Ford850]

Are you serviced by the co-op in Guernsey County? If so, check this link and give them a call. GenerLink Safety Device | gmenergy.com
My co-op had purchase and rent-to-own options when I looked into it a couple years ago. And they installed them no charge.

Here's the Generlink prices including cables and installation from my co-op:
GenerLink devices may be purchased by members and installation at the home's electric meter is FREE. The cooperative offers a 12 month interest free payment plan, and purchase is as follows:

$660 — GenerLink 30Amp Non-Surge MA23-N with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable
$720 — GenerLink 30Amp Non-Surge MA23-N with 40 ft. GenerLok Cable
$750 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable
$810 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 40 ft. GenerLok Cable
$930 — GenerLink 30Amp Surge MA23-S with 80 ft. GenerLok Cable
$870 — GenerLink 40Amp Surge MA23-S with 20 ft. GenerLok Cable

 

[aczlan]

$600-700 for the 30 amp model. $200 more for the 50 amp model. Sources:
GenerLink | South Central Power Company
https://www.lcec.net/my-home/products-and-services/generlink

Aaron Z

 

[MMagis]

Thanks. I do have service through the GMEC co-op. Now that I think a little more, I think I looked into this exact thing a couple years ago when they advertised it through the co-op magazine. I remember it being around $700. Need to get it done, other things just keep coming up.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Misunderstood OP. How do you delete post?

 

[Xfaxman]

Misunderstood OP. How do you delete post?

On a computer, click Edit, click delete, click box for delete message and click delete.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
No, some information does not change. A transfer switch of some type should be used between your generator and your house. The only exception would be a generator and a bunch of extension cords running in your door to your appliances you want running.

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
Yes, I have had the Generlink for almost 7 years now. It works fine. I have never had any issues with it.

 

[Texasmark]

I bought a Generac brand in Feb 2014. I bought the Generac transfer switch for 2 reasons:

1. With the switch there is no physical way I can electrocute a lineman with feedback from the unit down the input power line.

2. My breaker box is not the single interrupt switched type. Back when I built my house you could have the 6 switch system where you had 5 mains for high power circuits and one 60 A for low power household circuits. That means 6 switches are needed to transfer power rather than one and I didn't want to chance goofing on that switchover at 2am on a cold winter morning with a storm on top of me.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm in the process of implementing an interlock setup. It wasn't until I stumbled across this solution that I could figure out how to provide emergency power to all my buildings. I have a main service panel that's outside -it's a manufactured home- that feeds the house (manufactured home), pump house and shed. Best I could tell there was no way a transfer box was going to be able to handle all of this: the house is 100amp; no way to break that out into individual circuits on the front side. I've now since had a garage built and it's pulling power from this same service panel, which means that it too can be supplied with emergency power; initially I was going to go with a new service feed, but due to technical issues and cost I opted to serve it via a sub-panel; this now allows me to locate my freezers to this building.

Not automatic, but I'll have my bases covered. Don't consume a lot of electricity. I figured that a 7.5kW generator would suffice: picked up an old Onan with a Kubota diesel; only 650 hrs.

Anyway, I thought it would be good to provide a case in which a transfer box couldn't cover what was needed. And for me, I was once cursing this stupid, manufactured home, electrical arrangement, but am now actually feeling that it turned out to be a blessing (with the "advent" of the interlock solution).

NOTE: My local utility company recognizes, and approves of interlocks. Same with my electrician: I'm having him do the wiring (I take care of all non-critical outbuilding wiring).

 

[DieselBound]

1. With the switch there is no physical way I can electrocute a lineman with feedback from the unit down the input power line.

There is, but one would have to do some really stupid stuff to do so.

I've read anti-interlock folks stressing that one can open up the box, the face plate, and flip breakers. Clearly this is true, but this would be intentional, and actions of such are pretty hard to defeat. The point is that under normal operations (not the case of malice) feedback cannot occur. Also note that in most cases, not saying ALL, someone's little generator ain't going to be filling power lines up (and linemen's protocol is to always test for live voltages- yes, someone could come along and flip something, but in most cases the window in which this would have an effect is small; line segments tend to be isolated during repair- today's protocols are a lot more safe).