GR2120 SnowBlower pic
- Thread starter PHILIP8N
- Start date
andre53
New member
Hi Phillip,
I will post some pics later this week. I have not tried to blow snow without the ballast weight. Just driving around there is no noticeable difference. However, from an engineering standpoint, you really do want to use ballast. When you add the snowblower to ther front end, it effectively "unloads" or reduces weight on the rear wheels. A rough Static estimate goes like this, since the blower weighs over 200 lbs and its center of gravity is roughly 16-18" ahead of the front axle, the net loss of weight on rear wheels is greater than 70-80 lbs. Dynamically, i.e. when you are in motion, that weight loss is increased by inertial forces generated by stopping & starting. Adding the rear ballast weight provide the counterforce to negate those forces.
Bottom line the ballast weights provide balance and improve traction on your rear wheels, which is important on snow & ice.
One last note: My old tractor which I used for snowblowing for 20 years, was just rear wheel drive. It needed weights & chains to go up even mild slopes in the winter. It was very easy to get stuck trying to use reverse up a grade. You will find that your AWD Kubota has amazing traction and will not require chains.
Andre
I will post some pics later this week. I have not tried to blow snow without the ballast weight. Just driving around there is no noticeable difference. However, from an engineering standpoint, you really do want to use ballast. When you add the snowblower to ther front end, it effectively "unloads" or reduces weight on the rear wheels. A rough Static estimate goes like this, since the blower weighs over 200 lbs and its center of gravity is roughly 16-18" ahead of the front axle, the net loss of weight on rear wheels is greater than 70-80 lbs. Dynamically, i.e. when you are in motion, that weight loss is increased by inertial forces generated by stopping & starting. Adding the rear ballast weight provide the counterforce to negate those forces.
Bottom line the ballast weights provide balance and improve traction on your rear wheels, which is important on snow & ice.
One last note: My old tractor which I used for snowblowing for 20 years, was just rear wheel drive. It needed weights & chains to go up even mild slopes in the winter. It was very easy to get stuck trying to use reverse up a grade. You will find that your AWD Kubota has amazing traction and will not require chains.
Andre
OP
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
Andre, Looking forward to pics, thanks. I understand ballast. Just remember, when the snowblower is on the ground (in working condition), the leverage effect and weight transfer is not there. However, when the snowblower is in the air (transport condition), yes, the rears are unloaded some. Good part, it will take some seat time of my own to determine what I need. Philip.
Pete6114
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2000
- Messages
- 384
- Location
- SW Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- F2690(Sold) GR2120(Sold) L3240(sold) B1700(sold)
I think the primary reason for the weights, is to help with traction.
andre53
New member
Great pics, Pete. I especially appreciate the shot of the shear bolt sticker. I have a older model GR2728 and had to get the fan upgraded due to failing shear bolts. But I never got a parts list for the upgrade so I didn't know the PN for the new bolt.
The snowblower action shot is from last Christmas. Currently it is snowing hard here and they predict 8-10" by morning and another 6" tomorrow.
Below is a better picture of the cab and also a shot of the Kubota electric chute rotator. I just added the rotator for this season. Due to the length and turns in our driveway, I am constantly adjusting the chute so I decided to upgrade to the electric. It took about 2 hours to install, mainly due to me trying to route the cabling the way I wanted it.
Last edited:
Pete6114
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2000
- Messages
- 384
- Location
- SW Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- F2690(Sold) GR2120(Sold) L3240(sold) B1700(sold)
still undecided on the cab, but i can see how it keeps the snow off you. what did the electric chute set you back?
Looks like you'll get to play.....they got 2 feet of snow 1/2 hour from me, but not a flake here last weekend.
Looks like you'll get to play.....they got 2 feet of snow 1/2 hour from me, but not a flake here last weekend.
andre53
New member
The rotator was expensive, $380. Probably could have built one but I just don't have the time right now so I spent the cash. I learned with my first tractor that the cab is a must have if you have to do a lot of snow removal and plan on keeping your tractor for the long term. Besides the shelter it gives while you are snowplowing, its real value is in how it protects the tractor. The snow coming out of the chute is finely granulated and it gets in every crack & crevice on the tractor, especially in the dash & controls. As it freezes & thaws, it can do some real damage, not to mention the rust and electrical issues. It is no fun when your throttle cable freezes up. Finally, it is really nice to be able to get home from work and be able to jump in the tractor and clear the snow, without having to put on a snowmobile suit.
Andre
Andre
andre53
New member
Hi Phillip,
I forgot to mention that I have a gravel drive, so I rarely get to completely ground the blower when I am operating it, especially early in the season before the ground freezes. So, I routinely operate with 50-80% of the blower weight being carried by the lift actuator. See pics above.
TailDragon
Silver Member
You know as as a fellow GR2120 owner I am glad to see them being used during the non mowing season. However I must point out as a F series owner also, the factory cabs, heater, snow blower, broom and other attachments offered for the F series. Just do not ask about the price.
No, I do not have a cab because A/C is not offered.
No, I do not have a cab because A/C is not offered.
Pete6114
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2000
- Messages
- 384
- Location
- SW Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- F2690(Sold) GR2120(Sold) L3240(sold) B1700(sold)
GR2120 owners. Keep your eye on the fuel tank vent. My tank cap had to be replaced, because it wasn't venting. Reason i found out, is that when i took it off, i heard air rushing in and the tank's neck was a little distorted to a point where the cap was touching the fender.