GST use/wear question

[geneP]

Engagement should be reasonably direct, but not so fast that it jerks the machine (or operator) around. The important idea for clutch life is not to ride the pedal. Don't slip the clutch as a means of speed control. That kills any clutch - wet or dry.

Our L3 shuttles have adjustable engagement speed to correct for climate (oil viscosity) But it's more for operator comfort. Any setting will be ok for clutch life. Your Mississippi summer shifts will be softer using the #3 orifice where my Mass winter shifts would be better on #1.

Just to be sure we are talking about the same positions. My manual says "#1 is for normal working conditions and has the top of the adjusting lever pointing toward the outside (or to the left) of the tractor. If the shuttle shift engagement seems too slow, use #2 (adjuster pointing straight up and down). When operating in outside temperatures below 0 degrees F, use position #3" (top of adjusting lever pointing toward center of tractor). So, for warmer temperatures, I guess mine is already on the most aggressive setting of #2 (vertical position)?

 

[blin]

I have a HD motorcycle with a wet clutch. I was taught to feather (ride) the clutch, especially at slower speeds and traffic. That a wet clutch is designed especially to do that. I have had the bike over 4 years and have never had any clutch problems. I have not had any clutch issues on the Kubota L4330 either. I have feathered the pedal clutch many times when working in tight areas in reverse. I have to keep a close eye on where I am going, and it's not safe to look forward and check gear settings. When in a lower gear and at PTO speed, the foot break does not give you great stopping power. I feather clutch to slow down and speed up. I use both feet to clutch and break to a stop and then change reverse / forward.
Am I missing something?

Engagement should be reasonably direct, but not so fast that it jerks the machine (or operator) around. The important idea for clutch life is not to ride the pedal. Don't slip the clutch as a means of speed control. That kills any clutch - wet or dry.

Our L3 shuttles have adjustable engagement speed to correct for climate (oil viscosity) But it's more for operator comfort. Any setting will be ok for clutch life. Your Mississippi summer shifts will be softer using the #3 orifice where my Mass winter shifts would be better on #1.

 

[rbargeron]

.....I was taught to feather (ride) the clutch, especially at slower speeds and traffic......I feather clutch to slow down and speed up......I use both feet to clutch and break to a stop and then change reverse / forward..... Am I missing something?

Well yes and no. at low rpm and low load, wet clutches can slip a lot and survive it without damage. Wet clutches will tolerate much more slipping than dry ones. But although they handle it better, they can be hurt by slipping too much at high load. There are some pics of a failed Ever Clutch here. Even Kubota's fabled EC will fail if it slips enough.

geneP, #1 puts the oil through the smallest hole, giving softer slower engagement, #2 is a bigger hole used to speed up the shift if it seems to take too long. #3 is the biggest hole - needed when the oil is cold and stiff and shifts take forever. Normally the valve is set for the average local climate and left there. EDIT - in post #21 above I had the order reversed - #1 is for hot climate, #2 for medium. #3 for cold.

This thread has drifted off topic - Jay4200 had asked if shifting his GST at full rpm was going to hurt it. Most replies (including mine) said no - it's designed to handle it.