Having a 20' equipment trailer built, any options to add?

[Redbug]

I would have a lockable tool box added up front. Make sure you have stake holders at intervals around the outer frame. That way you can add sides if you wish, later on. It's also nice to have an adjustable coupler up front. Then you can level the trailer by moving the hitch up or down...good when using different vehicles.

What brand of trailer are you having built? We needs to knows...

 

[Capt Dan]

I recomend an adjustable Bulldog style coupler and a good jack to hold it up. What is the spacing of the cross members. I would make sure 16 inch on center or closer. Tool box and/or chain tray. I would want a spare tire mounted also unless you carry one on truck that would fit. Someone talked about an extra hub and bearings. I"ve thought about carrying an extra spring on long trips.

 

[schmism]

7' wide

bolt on fenders so you can remove them for extra wide equipment or low ground clearance cars so you can open the doors.

structural triangular "steps" front and rear of the fenders with marker lights both sides

LED package

back up lights

Break away controller plus battery with charger wired into 7 way plug

3K sq drop down leg jack.

adjustable height front hitch

brakes both alxes

spare tire mounted on an entire extra drum/hub assembly.

stake pockets with rub rail

DOT reflector tape

your choice of either 15" or 16" Load range E (i prefer to match my vehicle tires if i can so i can use a vehicle spare in a pinch) NOTE 16" tires come with higher load ratings vs 15" for any given range letter.

Id include a tongue toolbox with car size battery for both a winch and break away controller. (place to add bottle jack, 4way wrench, blocking, chains, binders tools etc)

2" female hitch tube at the front for winch mount

I assume your fold up ramps will have the little legs attached to the bottom to keep the rear of the trailer from squatting when you drive off the back?

 

[hrcarver]

What brand of trailer are you having built? We needs to knows...

Burke trailers out of elon nc. Just a old guy with a shop who builds trailers for a living.

 

[Skyco]

some good suggestions here....I'll second the spare, may never need it, but the one time you do

I'll second the bolt on fenders too...my car trailer had welded on ones, after an 18 wheeler sideswiped it I cut off both fenders and replaced with heavier ones that bolt on and they are stout enough to walk on..that can be handy when you are on the trailer loaded with stuff and you don't have to jump down and climb back up walking from one end to the other..:thumbsup:

 

[hrcarver]

I recomend an adjustable Bulldog style coupler and a good jack to hold it up. What is the spacing of the cross members. I would make sure 16 inch on center or closer. Tool box and/or chain tray. I would want a spare tire mounted also unless you carry one on truck that would fit. Someone talked about an extra hub and bearings. I"ve thought about carrying an extra spring on long trips.

24" is standard. Seen it standard on most trailers up to 14k. I have also seen lots of folks say 16" is better. Why? Is 24" not strong enough for a 8k load?

Remember I want to keep this a lightweight trailer, I am of the opinion that all of weight ratings of equipment should match, or closely as possible. If my logic is flawed, please explain it to me.

My pickup tows 9500 lbs, 2 5/16 ball is good to only 10,000 lbs, I figured no need to get a trailer heavier than 10,000 lbs. Right or wrong?

I do have a heavier 14k deckover trailer for hauling pallets of sod and bales of tobacco and such. I do need a bigger truck for that, but that is a different post all together.

Has a 8k jack. Toolbox is good idea.

Is an adjustable hitch useful on anything but BIG trucks? 1/2 ton trucks up to 1 ton should be fine fixed, right?

 

[Redbug]

Well, you can do OK without the adjustable hitch. But it is nice to be able to adjust it. Plus...one thing I had never thought of until I saw it done...SCDolphin just unbolts the hitch part from the trailer when not in use. Harder to steal when there's no hitch to hook up to.

I think Schmism's, (Steve), list is good. After looking around and not being completely satisified, I had my trailer built the way I wanted it, too. And it has the things on his list. It's funny...I also welded a 2" female hitch tube at the front for a winch mount. That way the winch can be taken off. I guess we think alike.

I'm not too crazy about fold up ramps. I know slide in ramps are a pain to set up and store, (I have them). But they are out of the way when on the road. It seems on occasion I have something a little longer than the trailer bed...hanging out. Such as the bush hog, etc. Fold up ramps don't allow for longer implements. In fact, they take up bed space when folded up.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I recomend an adjustable Bulldog style coupler and a good jack to hold it up. What is the spacing of the cross members. I would make sure 16 inch on center or closer. Tool box and/or chain tray. I would want a spare tire mounted also unless you carry one on truck that would fit. Someone talked about an extra hub and bearings. I"ve thought about carrying an extra spring on long trips.

Forget the trucks tire and wheel. The few times I have seen it work the guy gets a new truck in a few years.

Spend the extra $200 for the spare tire and mount.

I second the slide in ramps. My GN had fold up ramps and were always in the way. My current BP has slide in and are much more convenient for me.

Chris

 

[BTDT2]

Slide-in ramps! Gives trailer much more utility. When building my trailer I had HD tongue type jacks added to each rear side corner to ease the load on the back of the trailer, and uplift on the front, while loading.

Super heavy duty front tongue jack due to side stresses and ease of use etc

Extra tie down points are nice as well as some recessed ones in the floor.

Lockable box for chains, binders, lug wrench, and jack, is nice. I had mine recessed into the floor and somewhat hidden to reduce possible theft. A good set of chains and binders can be expensive.

Don't use my winch often but when I do, it's a god-send (normally for rescue work of others vehicles). It's on a 2" hitch bar, so I can use on trucks etc. Adding a two inch rear facing receiver to front of trailer was pretty straight forward.

Wider and lower is better for me.

Some built in step plates front and back of fenders and at corners- I also used the small diamond ribbed plates to protect marker lights.

DOT safety tape along both sides and back along with LED water 'resistant' lights. No such thing as water proof trailer lights no matter what vendors claim.

Quality light wiring - repairs are almost inevitable- especially if you use cheap lights and wiring.

Brand name tires with high load ratings (skip the Chinese cheapo's).

Black paint for easy paint touch-up. There will be lot's of scratches when using chains and binders. Black is easy to match and blend

Electric brakes. I chose hydraulic and continue to regret it.:thumbsup:

 

[firefighter jim]

A setback tongue jack. Allows you to drop the tailgate on a pickup or suv without punching a hole in it.