Help choosing the right dozer.

   / Help choosing the right dozer. #21  
The dealer I bought from also said that reversing generates more wear. He said that when running forward the grouser pads shed the dirt, where in reverse then draw it into the drive mechanism. I haven't looked at the way they work myself to see if I believe this explaination, but it sure sounded good.

Speaking of wear, someone posted a link to Crawler Heaven which has some great info on measuring wear. Keep in mind, however, that newer machines have what are referred to as Sealed And Lubricated Tracks, or SALT tracks. These wear differently than the traditional dry pin and bushing design.

On tradition dry units, both the outer and inner surface of the bushings wears. The outer surface wears from contact with the drive gear, and is accompanied by wear of the drive sprocket teeth. Badly worn sprocket teeth have sharp rather than blunt, rounded points. Badly worn bushings result in out of round surfaces, and sometimes wear all the way through to the pin. You can feel the wear with your hand, and can measure it with calipers.

The inner inner surface of the bushing and the pin inside it wear together from contact with each other. The pins also wear fom contact with the inside of the bushing. This wear can be measured by the link to link spacing in the track since the track lengthens as the pins and inner bushings wear.

Crawler Heaven lists the link to link dimensions and outer bushing dimensions for figuring out waer limits, but it only applies to unsealed tracks.

On SALT tracks, the bushing and pin are lubricated and sealed and as a result have no appreciable wear. The only problems occurs if the seal is violated and you end up with a dry pin/bushing, but they are supposed to last the life of the tracks. A squeeking joint is an indicator of seal failure and repair involved replacing that joint.

On SALT tracks, because the pins and inner bushings don't wear much, all the wear is concentrated on the outer bushings and interfacing sprocket teeth. In theory they are designed to wear out at the same time so overall wear can be judged by the condition of the sprocket teeth. One wrinkle is that the bushings, which are pressed into the link and don't rotate, wear on only one side. One life-extending measure is to press out the bushings and rotated them 180 degrees before reinstalling them. This effectively doubles the life of the bushing. But, it's not that simple, because the sprocket will be worn when you rotate the bushings which results in faster wear of both after rotation. Also, rotating the bushings is no simple task, requiring dismantling of the track and very large specialty presses. There appear to be differnt camps on how to get the most cost-effective life out of SALT tracks. Some people run them without touching them until the sprockets are gone and/or the bushings are worn through, then replace the tracks and sprockets completely. Others run for about half the sprocket life, rotate the bushings, then run 'till the tracks drop.

Anyway, hopefully this will speed others on the learning curve I went through, and explain why track lengther for newer dozers are not listed on Crawler Heaven.

Cat has a new track design with some fancy name where the bushing DO rotate during normal operation. The idea is that the wear is spread over the bushing surface and eliminates rotation as a maintenance procedure. Supposedly there is no track maintenance until the sprockets are shot, at which point you replace everything.

Ahh, the things you learn owning tractors and other heavy equipment.....
 
   / Help choosing the right dozer.
  • Thread Starter
#22  
rutwad,

I have thought about renting a machine for a week just to make some trails and clear some land. That would help me determine if the machine can do what I want it to do. As far as renting instead of buying, that could be cheaper and smarter in the long run, but I want to do the work at my leisure with no pressure about hurrying up to get the jobs done. Also, there are some jobs that are best done at different times of the year with different soil conditions. I guess it what I am saying is that I WANT to own it.

hayden,

I visited that site too. I think I need to read thru it a few times to understand it better. I was thinking of printing out some of the info and take it with me next time I look at a machine. I would really like to have a new machine next to an older machine to compare the 2.

I've seen "SALT" mentioned in a few adds, now I now what in means, thanks.

If there is more wear backing up the machine, then would it be better to turn it around rather than backing up? Or would the turning wear it also. For example if I was clearing a 50'x 50' area, instead of making a pass and backing up to do the next one, should I turn around and keep going foreward? I've got a lot to learn.


Jeff
 
   / Help choosing the right dozer. #23  
I think turning is just as bad or worse than backing up, plus it tears things up much more.

To me you have hit on the problem with rentals. They are great if you can pack all the work into a continuous stretch of time, but if the work is fragmented you are paying a hefty rate for the machine to sit. My site work for the shop has been spread over 6-8 weeks so far which would be a huge rental fee.
 
   / Help choosing the right dozer. #24  
hayden said:
Speaking of wear, someone posted a link to Crawler Heaven which has some great info on measuring wear. Keep in mind, however, that newer machines have what are referred to as Sealed And Lubricated Tracks, or SALT tracks. These wear differently than the traditional dry pin and bushing design.

Thanks for mentioning that. I wasn't thinking about newer machines. I've got my eye on a 1992 Case 855 loader and the wear measurements helped give me a better clue.
 
   / Help choosing the right dozer. #25  
I think for a used farm use dozer 70% on the tracks is not to bad. Remember a construction dozer might get worked 8-10 hours a day for months.

Look up dozers on Ebay. They usually show a picture of the sprokets and what they call the wear. You can get a good idea of what to look for. Sharp pointed, thin teeth and they are about gone, wide thick, dull and there is a more left. It's hard to get a good shot of the pins but if the sprocket is gone the pins are to. But the sprocket is easy to replace, the pins are not.
 
   / Help choosing the right dozer. #27  
Not sure if anyone has mentioned "Iron Planet" . It is an auction site for heavy equipment.They have inspectors that rate machines for wear and things, supposed to be unbiased...
 
 
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