Help! - I am gunshy!!!

[Dr. Bob]

Megaboz and Hvytrkmech:

Thanks for the replies.
So, for diesels that do REAL heavy duty work, oil anaysis is a possible way to detect that something is going wrong before it breaks.

 

[megaboz]

Megaboz and Hvytrkmech:

Thanks for the replies.
So, for diesels that do REAL heavy duty work, oil anaysis is a possible way to detect that something is going wrong before it breaks.

I wouldn't limit it to just real heavy duty work, but yes, it can help but usually you need to do the analysis more than once. Actually the more you do it the more you will be able to see a trend if there are issues. A first time oil analysis on a new engine won't really tell you much because there is a certain amount of break in, some metals will be higher due to this.

I included my first/last one that I had done just as an example. I'm sure different places do different test, but in the end I think they should all test for about the same things, some might just test for more.

 

[KubotaJoe1977]

On new equipment,the tolorances are very tight. Sometimes adding additives can cause the tractor to lock up. If your tractor requires additives depending on you region and after a break in period. I am sure the manufactor would list it in the spec's.

 

[veresjwv]

Well! I had no idea my question would raise so many issues, I do want to thank everyone for their input. I definitly learned a thing or two about oil and I WILL NOT be using any additives in my new Kubota. I really feel better now that I know. It is just amazing how many additives there are on the shelves that are apparently just a waste of money. I do remember when Slick 50 first came out, thats all you heard about, now not many people have even heard of it!!!
Thanks again!

 

[Chilly807]

I'm a firm believer in good quality plain old oil and regular changes. The only thing I'll add is that if your machine gets worked hard in temperature extremes, you might want to consider a true synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil if you can find them in the right grades. It stands up a bit better, but costs more. Your choice.

Chilly

 

[EE_Bota]

One additive I am convinced helped me and everyone who I recommended it to who actually used it claimed they really appreciated the difference it made. The product is called "Restore." It is for well worn engines. I would never put in in an engine unless it has better than say 125,000 miles on it. I would not put it in the engine of something really valuable either.

One other additive I think helped me on my ST1100 motorcycle is called "Sea Foam." It seemed to make it much easier to start, and also made it idle better. I don't ride it as often as I should. It has around 65,000 miles on it.

I know certain additives can swell rubber a tiny bit and make a seal quit leaking for a while. (I work in the rubber industry.)

But, none of these engines were new. One problem with an additive is that you have to have a problem that additive can target, and it has to be relatively mild.

Subaru requires a a leak stop additive made in England be added to all Subarus else you void the cooling system warranty.

I know it will be a bit hard to swallow for some of you guys. All I can say is that I am not a flighty person, and I do not subscribe to a lot of voodoo.

As for oil analysis: I find that analysis of oil is in direct proportion to mostly the cost/value of the equipment. Our tiny boxes are never sampled. Our gearboxes from $75,000 to $250,000 are analyzed at least yearly, along with the vibration analysis, and in some cases thermography studies.

 

[texbaylea]

Just a comment about Kubota's SUDT. It not just for cold weather but also for high temperature operation. I use it in my Grand L with HST and have found smoother and quieter operation. We do experience many days over 100 degrees every summer so it's use is warranted.

Vernon

 

[ultrarunner]

I know certain additives can swell rubber a tiny bit and make a seal quit leaking for a while. (I work in the rubber industry.)

Back in college I drove a Plymouth with a power steering pump that was always leaking... I really didn't have the money or time to do a proper repair... I added a pint of power steering sealer and never had to add fluid all the years after that...

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Addatives for cooling systems are another issue than addatives for an engine lubrication system. Cadillac Allante's also require frequent anti freeze changes and 3 or 5 little ginger root based pills go in with each change. They sell them at the GM parts department. You can buy the same products at auto parts places. They seal leaks by clotting at a leak.
I also added Sea foam to the fuel system of a rough running Allante one time. I had talked to a auto parts place and told them my issue. They reached under the counter for this generic looking can/bottle and said to try it. It didn't help/didn't hurt. Later a part had to be replaced in the fuel injection system. Additives for cleaning a fuel delivery problem are also different than additives for the lubrication system and I would use them and do in my diesel fuel. I use a splash of the cetane booster in the white bottle from Wal Mart in each 5 gallons of fuel. I've used it with all of my diesel tractors because of the endorsements that I read about on the 2 different tractor forums after buying my first tractor and the info about it seemed logical to me. Shouldn't hurt and may help. Power Service, I think, is the name of it. A bottle lasts me a couple of years.
The shouldn't hurt and the may help factor is a big issue with me. I steer away from lubrication addatives because some of them may hurt and in 46 years of buying engined products I've never been convinced that they work/help/improve on a properly functioning engine and as engine technology has advanced over those years I'm even less inclined to use them. I've always read the Auto magazines articles over the years concerning the bottled lubrication addatives and haven't found any that offer a valid opinion of support for them other than the pages that have (advertisement) written at the top of the page. Now those pages claim they will keep a new motor new and make an old motor new. In Real Estate sales they call that puffing.

 

[EE_Bota]

Actually, JT, you bring up a point I hinted at, but did not make abundantly clear: I don't ever put any extra additives in an engine that is running right. I always use as close to what the manufacturer recommends as I can come. I dont ALWAYS use the manufacturers filters, but often times I do, if the price is not too much of a premium over generic.

Any doubts I have about following the manufacturers recs comes from the fuel we all buy. Often we are not able to buy the diesel fuel the manufacturer was counting on being used. They change the fuels (both diesel and gasoline) over time, usually having to do with pollution controls. I have my doubts about the lubricity of many diesel fuels. I may be tempted to run a little Red Oil, or ATF at some point, but I have not decided. My gut tells me since I only think there COULD BE a lubricity problem, I should not add any additives because there is not any KNOWN problem.