Mowing Help with 3210 Bush Hog

[piller]

I don't know about the bush hog model but this happened to me with a woods 10' dual spindle cutter. For me the fix was an adjustment of the driveshaft that goes from the center gear box to one of the outer gear boxes.

By the way, the first time I fixed the timing it was not quite right, I don't think I took all of the slack out of the system, so I had to do it again.

On my cutter the shaft was held in position with a large spring clip, I removed the spring clip, then could pull the shaft out of the outer gearbox, there was room for it to move into the center gearbox, then rotate the blade to desired position, engage shaft, connect spring clip, done.

 

[Joe Bryan]

I have a 3210 and am resurrecting this thread to post a solution. The blades get out of time because the rubber coupling on the cross shaft fails and allows one blade to slip relative to the other. A new coupling is about $1100 but the complete shaft is $800. Go figure. The only solution according to Bush Hog is to remove the gearbox and put in a new shaft or coupling. First step was to re-time the blades. Again Bush Hog says take out the gearbox, remove yoke from hub and turn to correct timing and reinstall gearbox. This seemed like a lot of hard work. So, I removed both universal joint crosses, was able to save one, and with the crosses out I had enough room to pull the spline and re-time. Put u-joints back in and was good. BTW MOOG 331A is the replacement for my shaft, $20 at Advance Auto Parts. Then it got out again. Then I found the bad coupling. I tried to inject epoxy into the space. Lasted about 2 hours. I had already noticed the opposite side had a 3/8 bolt in the side of the coupling. ????. Now I know why. Got out my drill, drilled a 1/2" hole through the coupling catching the OD and inner hubs, put a 6" Grade 8 bolt and it did not budge as I finished my 60 acres of mowing. I do lose the shock absorbing of the coupling, but I have not had it for years on the other side with no problem. At the worst it fails and I buy the $800 shaft, which is where I was when I started.

 

[Tbssj]

When drilling the rubber coupler, which way did you drill the hole?

 

[Tbssj]

I have a 3210 and am resurrecting this thread to post a solution. The blades get out of time because the rubber coupling on the cross shaft fails and allows one blade to slip relative to the other. A new coupling is about $1100 but the complete shaft is $800. Go figure. The only solution according to Bush Hog is to remove the gearbox and put in a new shaft or coupling. First step was to re-time the blades. Again Bush Hog says take out the gearbox, remove yoke from hub and turn to correct timing and reinstall gearbox. This seemed like a lot of hard work. So, I removed both universal joint crosses, was able to save one, and with the crosses out I had enough room to pull the spline and re-time. Put u-joints back in and was good. BTW MOOG 331A is the replacement for my shaft, $20 at Advance Auto Parts. Then it got out again. Then I found the bad coupling. I tried to inject epoxy into the space. Lasted about 2 hours. I had already noticed the opposite side had a 3/8 bolt in the side of the coupling. ????. Now I know why. Got out my drill, drilled a 1/2" hole through the coupling catching the OD and inner hubs, put a 6" Grade 8 bolt and it did not budge as I finished my 60 acres of mowing. I do lose the shock absorbing of the coupling, but I have not had it for years on the other side with no problem. At the worst it fails and I buy the $800 shaft, which is where I was when I started.

When drilling the rubber coupler, which way did you drill the hole?

 

[beenthere]

Tbssj
Welcome to TBN
You may want to send a PM (personal message) to Joe Bryan, as his post is 7+ years old.

Click his user name and there you will see how to send a PM.
Hope you can get your answers then (although someone else may also be able to help).