Help with Hydraulic Cylinder Repairs

[Rollcenter]

I still feel that you Cheapest/easiest route would be to CALL Bailey's and talk to them about your cylinder. Chances are they have a exact replacement. They could have even made your cyl to begin with as they make cylinders for several OEM's worldwide.

Bailey's manufactures a HUGE amount of cyl's every year. The hydraulic company I work for either repaired or made new over 20,000 cyls in 2010 and we can't even touch the number of cyl's that Bailey's does.

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Jason

 

[philgreen]

Jason,

I will call Bailey's tomorrow. I stopped back today to see my second local repair guy. He was searching his suppliers to see if he could find an exact match,... no dice. I thought I'd see how that plays out, then get in touch with Baileys. Now there is no more need to wait.

Phil

 

[philgreen]

I contacted the good people at Bailey's today and here is what I found.

I can get a Bailey's number : 200-200 for $85.00. I would buy 2 to replace both bucket cylinders.

It has the following specs

Hydraulic Cylinders 200-200 Detailed Information

The specs on my original (from my local hydraulic repair guy) are:

1 1/8 Rod
1.80 bore
24 3/4 closed
42 1/4 open
17 1/2 stroke
2" base cross tube
2 1/2 Rod cross tube
3/4" pins

2150 PSI

The replacement specs for comparison are:

1" rod
2" bore
24 1/2 closed
42 open ( I added closed + stroke)
17 1/2 stroke
Not sure - base cross tube
Not sure - Rod cross tube
1 1/8 pins

3000 PSI

Questions;

1) It looks like I would have a weaker bucket because of the 1" rods as opposed to the 1 1/8" rods, would this be a huge difference?

2) The bore is bigger, so the bucket would move slower due to needing more fluid in the cylinders. Would this be ALOT slower or a bit slower?

3) Closed and opened specs are close, so I don't think the position of the bucket will change all that much when fully extended or fully retracted. Any comments?

4) I don't understand the Base and Rod Cross tube, can anyone advise on this?

5) I would need to bush the pins or drill out my existing holes and buy bigger pins.

I would appreciate advice on this, I don't want to buy this then have to fight about returning them if they don't work in my FEL.

Thanks in advance,
P

 

[wdchyd]

You may have to buy them and get then in front of you to decide, but making sleeves to go in the new cyls for the pins are minor.....or the another way would be to cut off cross tubes on old cyls and weld them on the new cyls if needed....(new cyls are welded on too and can be cut off)

 

[philgreen]

wdchyd,

It's funny you say to weld on the old cross tube. I stopped by a hydraulic shop today and talked with the owner about the specs of my old cylinder as compared to the new. He thought they were real close and also said you could cut off the old cross tube for the ram and weld it on to the new cylinder. He also said you could add a bit of rod to make the closed or open length match the old cylinder exactly.

On the surface that seems a great thing, but I wonder if you might be creating a bigger problem for yourself down the road. Would the ram/cross tube connection become a brittle spot, more likely to fail? Are normal ram/cross tube welds stress relieved in some way,...heat treating or some such thing??

Phil

 

[jimmer2880]

In the shop. Used to work in, the cross tubes were just mig welded on. Nothing special, nor any pre-heating

 

[wdchyd]

Like Jimmer said, nothin' special.....just need a competent welder.......MIG or Stick is fine.....

 

[philgreen]

Hi All,

I just wanted to put a period on the end of my thread. I ended up calling Bailey's and purchasing 2 cylinders out of their surplus stock for $90 each. I asked if these were Chinese made and the salesman said no, they were made in Knoxville, TN. I confirmed this when the cylinders arrived, they are stamped, "Made in USA".

I took them to a welding friend who cut off the "T" connection on the ram a put on the old ones for $40. He told me the steel used to make the new rams was very good, as it was quite hard for him to cut through. I then purchased two oil impregnated bronze sleeve bushings to convert the pin connection on the back of the cylinder to 3/4". Cost - $12.

The only surprise I had was that the OD of the cylinder was about 1/8" too fat for the loader channel. I fixed this by just grinding off a 1/16" or so on each side of the cylinder where it connects to the loader, until it fit between the C channel. This took about 20 minutes.

The hydraulic connections are the same as the old ones, so it hooked up just fine. I then topped off the hydraulic oil and cycled the rams back and forth. I repeated this step a couple of times just to make sure I didn't run the tractor out of hydraulic oil due to the new cylinders.

The speed of the rams, (these were just the bucket cylinders), seems to be the same as the stock ones. I can't tell for sure, but it doesn't seem to be slower in any measurable way that I can pick up. They seem to be plenty strong and as yet I have seen no leaks. I will paint them JD green as soon as the sky stops raining on me! We have not had three days of sun since last fall!!

Costs, $180 for both cylinders, $40 for the welding, $12 for the bushings, $5 for the paint and $15 for the oil. That equals $252, the cost from JD was $530 each or $1060 for both, that is a difference of $808! When I get a bit of time, I am going to try to replace the lower rams as well, but there is no hurry just yet.

Thanks to all who helped. I really like this forum and the people here. Most everyone is very helpful and there is always someone who has seen your problem and can offer some good advice.

To all our veterans, Thanks for your service and God Bless.

Regards,
Phil