Homebuilt PTO 3PT Wood Splitter w/pics

[Jstpssng]

I got home from Iraq a little over a month ago and have been living in my shop and loving life!!! I built a Splitter and would like to share my experiences as well as pictures. It's been a great project and works very, very well.

I used a 21 GPM Prince 540 rpm PTO Pump. A Prince 4.5x24x2 3000lb tierod cylinder. A Prince Splitter Control Valve. A 20 Gallon reservoir Tank. A 3000lb pressure gauge. A 4.5x10x60 I-Beam. Fabricated the rest.

I built the wedge from 3/8" flat steel, 8" high and 4.5" wide at the rear. I welded the V cutting edge with 7018 rod using a stick welder. Then ground it sharp.

I built the push ram from 1/4" flat steel for the face. 1" thick flat steel for the cylinder to pin to. I immediately discovered that the face was too thin and started pushing the cylinder bracket thru the face. I added a 3.8" face plate to the existing 1/4" face and stopped that problem.

I raised the rear end of the cylinder 1/2" so it would generally push down on the ram and cylinder. I thought that might lessen the stress on the ram plate bolts but not sure that was needed.

I angled the cutting edge of the wedge a couple degrees at the top, toward the cylinder. Again to try to minimize the wood riding up on the wedge. Not sure that was needed either. My wedge is very sharp and I don't have any trouble with the wood riding up.

I built the catch table too small in the beginning. Easy splitting wood would fall off before being pushed far enough out to stay on the table. I didn't want the table hitting my legs when walking up to the splitter with wood in my hands. I added another four inches to the table and helped the problem dramatically. Still occassionally drops a piece but not very often. The catch table is also removeable. It is awesome and definitely the best addition to a splitter you can make.

With no load and the tractor running at 1500 rpm, which is probably 375-400 PTO rpm, the cylinder will cycle out in about 5 seconds using the mental count method. It will return in just under 4 seconds. I'm very pleased with that speed. It's not so fast you are scared when using it. But fast enough that you don't wait on the cylinder very much. If I'm splitting by myself I don't have to wait on the return at all. The valve will automatically return the cylinder and it takes longer to retrieve another log than it does to return. If you are splitting a tough log that requires a complete stroke to finish, you will wait just a little for that to happen.

I have found some knotty oak logs that I had to tactfully split. But otherwise it's effortless. I've only saw the pressure gauge up to 1500lbs once and that was on a very tough log. Normally it only requires 500lbs or less to be effective.

I've split several loads of wood and would only change one thing. I would use a smaller reservoir just to be more compact. I have 15 gallon of oil in this tank and it's more than adequate. After splitting for an hour or more the lines are just luke warm to the touch. I could get by with half that much oil reservoir.

Otherwise I'm very pleased. Don't want to get on a tractor discussion but my Kubota B2910 runs this splitter effortlessly at 1500 rpm and just sips fuel. I don't think you could power a small gas engine any cheaper as far as fuel costs.

I like the 3pt method for the maneuverability aspect. I also like the 3pt for large pieces because you can lower it to the ground and roll them up on the splitter. You can also vary the work height to suit your back.

The PTO pump is bulky and fills the space between my lift arms. I think I could help that situation with a 1 1/4 elbow fitting for the return line but haven't been able to find one yet.

I estimated the electricity and welder/cutting products for cost. Otherwise I used receipts for everything that I bought. My total cost including paint was $1420. I'm very content with that. I have a splitter that my Sons will give to their Sons.

Hope you enjoy the pics. I'm including a lot of pics but that's the best way to answer questions.

Remember,,,,, I'm busy catching up in my shop and might not get back on here for a few days. But I'll try to answer any questions anyone might have.

I have gotten soooo much from this website during my year in Iraq. I wanted to give back a little with this project.

Nicely done, wish I could weld as well as you.

And you don't need to "give anything back"... it's we who owe you. Glad you could make it back to do such good work.

 

[JC-jetro]

I built a Splitter and would like to share my experiences as well as pictures. It's been a great project and works very, very well.

Hi ovrszd, again great job. I was looking over your details and have a few questions. I suppose you bought your spool valve, hyd pump and the hyd piston from Northern Tools or some vendors like that. Below I have one of your pictures that caused me a bit of concern.



It appears that your oil filter is on the discharge of the pump. I think your spool valve relief setting is around 2000 psi. At the pump given flow when the oil hits the filter got to cause some pressure drop. Do you have any feel for what that pressure is?

Secondly what happens if your filter gets loaded up in time? do you think if there is any possibility for the pump to rupture your filter case? Obviously pressure is going to change as you move the piston in each direction but I think your pressure is max when you are in bypass mode (open center )to the hyd oil reservoir.

Was there any reason you did not put the filter on the suction side of hyd pump ? same as filter screen designed and installed in the differential housing of many tractors with or without additional external spin in filter. The flip side of that is if the filter gets plugged up then pump can cavitate if it is centrifugal type but not in case of gear type same as what you have. but then your pressure gauge on the discharge is going to let you know quick, dirty filter equals to little to no pressure or flow.

What do you all think?

 

[ovrszd]

Hi ovrszd, again great job. I was looking over your details and have a few questions. I suppose you bought your spool valve, hyd pump and the hyd piston from Northern Tools or some vendors like that. Below I have one of your pictures that caused me a bit of concern.



It appears that your oil filter is on the discharge of the pump. I think your spool valve relief setting is around 2000 psi. At the pump given flow when the oil hits the filter got to cause some pressure drop. Do you have any feel for what that pressure is?

Secondly what happens if your filter gets loaded up in time? do you think if there is any possibility for the pump to rupture your filter case? Obviously pressure is going to change as you move the piston in each direction but I think your pressure is max when you are in bypass mode (open center )to the hyd oil reservoir.

Was there any reason you did not put the filter on the suction side of hyd pump ? same as filter screen designed and installed in the differential housing of many tractors with or without additional external spin in filter. The flip side of that is if the filter gets plugged up then pump can cavitate if it is centrifugal type but not in case of gear type same as what you have. but then your pressure gauge on the discharge is going to let you know quick, dirty filter equals to little to no pressure or flow.

What do you all think?

I'm certainly not a hydraulic expert. The pump and valve both came with schematics indicating how to plumb, both recommended this setup. I would agree with your idea that if the filter clogged and caused pressure buildup it could rupture. I also agree that if the filter was plumbed into the pump intake it could cause cavitation and damage the pump. Hmmmmm,,,,, which would I rather risk??? I guess I'd rather have a ruptured filter than a damaged pump. With a 10 micron intake screen and a clean system I'm really not too worried about the filter plugging. I guess if I felt the system had been contaminated I would change the filter. Good points though.

 

[TiminMN]

Most filter have a bypass valve built in, if the filter is clog the oil should flow though unfiltered.

 

[mfrost]

ovrszd, Great job and thanks for serving! You have a lot of weight hanging out there. Does you tractor strain a little trying to lift it? Only thing I see wrong is its orange instead of green.

 

[JC-jetro]

Most filter have a bypass valve built in, if the filter is clog the oil should flow though unfiltered.

Good point. One would ask though, what is the purpose of the filter ? I think filter is to protect sensitive equipment such as pump and spool valve. If you should have any contamination in the hyd resorvoir in form of sluge , sand they will have to pass thru pump and spool valve and damge may be done.
I guess after sevaral minutes of operation and several volume change of fluid in the resorvoir the oil is clean.

I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Wow, thanks for posting all those pictures. Very nice looking attachment, one that I imagine will last a very long time indee.

Cliff

 

[SPYDERLK]

I assume you are talking about the fittings where the gauge is mounted?? I questioned that too. My hydraulics guy said they would stand as much as the brass nipple screwed into the pressure gauge. I thought he made a valid point. I'll update if I have any problems. Thanks for the tip though.

Good work. Well laid out. Glad you are safe, so far. If those are plumbing fittings, your hydraulics guy has misdirected you. A gauge in itself is safe to the pressure on its scale, regardless that its parts may be brass. There is no real fluid flow in a gauge, so the passages can be very small. This translates to very little internal area for the pounds per sq inch(area) to push against. So even with high pressure the forces are low. I have a 10000psi gauge with a brass nipple. It is the fittings used to connect the gauge where you can get in trouble. Even tho they are a stronger material (debatable with cast iron tho) they have much more internal area, thinner walls and are more brittle. Plumbing fittings are rated at 150PSI. This is verry conservative, but I would never rely on them at a pressure higher than that where the nature of a leak may be dangerous. Like steam - - hot, or a high pressure oil squirt. These fittings can be damaged easily and it takes NO damage to make it likely that they will soon fail when used at 10 or 20 times their rated pressure.
As far as your filter - it should be fine. Unless something pretty bad comes from your tank, the limitation of one pass thru the sytem is pretty good. A suction filter would be bigger because more surface is needed to pass the flow at the low differential pressure available. It would be used before the pump. The two types are not interchangeable because of different bypass pressure settings.
Larry

 

[siphoxolo]

Well done

Gr8 Machine

How bout some action pics?? See what it does !! I know its a log splitter but no logs in sight lol

Cheers

sipho

 

[ovrszd]

ovrszd, Great job and thanks for serving! You have a lot of weight hanging out there. Does you tractor strain a little trying to lift it? Only thing I see wrong is its orange instead of green.

I have no way to weigh the splitter but yes, I had to add a front weight to carry it. The tractor has no problem lifting it, just has trouble keeping the front tires on the ground without added weight!!

As for the green paint, my Son has a John Deere 4310 which is why I definitely didn't paint it green!!! We do the "color war" all the time.