HOOKING UP BUSHHOG

[rbargeron]

.....I don't think the formula calling for 1/3 of remaining shaft as overlap is a good idea. It'd be fine for a long shaft but if the shaft is short, say less than 24" overall using that formula wouldn't leave a safe engagement length.....

I agree that using as much overlap as possible seems like a better idea. But Eurocardan has made a gazillion shafts so they probably know a lot about it.

 

[hill]

Thanks for your help. I don't think my PTO shaft has a lock pin where the shafts slide together. What limits the overlap of the shafts as they telescope?
I cannot check it right now, since tractor is at camp and unfortunately, I'm not. Does the actual contour of the overlapping ends change to round from keyed to provide the end point??

I'm not sure that you did, but if you interpreted my post as saying that there is a central pin to limit the engagement of one half of the PTO driveshaft with it's other half, I didn't mean that.

I'm talking about the spring loaded lockpins at each of the hookup ends of the shaft which engage a groove cut into both the tractor PTO output and an implement's PTO input.

 

[flINTLOCK]

Yes, Sorry, I misinterpreted the location of the pin. Are we in agreement that both shafts need to be shortened equally??

 

[madpogue]

I don't think the formula calling for 1/3 of remaining shaft as overlap is a good idea. It'd be fine for a long shaft but if the shaft is short, say less than 24" overall using that formula wouldn't leave a safe engagement length. A better idea, IMO, is to maintain a minimum of 3" overlap regardless the overall length. Less than that - buy a shorter shaft.

You'd still have plenty. Let's say overall target shaft length is 20". If you cut each section to 12", you'd have 4" of engagement. Even down to an overall lenght of 15", using the 1/3 rule, engagement would be 3".

There should be a grease zerk on the outer shaft to keep them sliding freely.

If there isn't a zerk (the Magdalena PTO shaft on my cheapo KK brush mower doesn't have one), you can just slide the shaft apart and slather grease on the inner section, far enough down to cover the engagement with the outer. KK actually recommends greasing it (and the u-joints and tailwheel) every EIGHT hours (overkill?).

 

[flINTLOCK]

No zerks at overlap site on my RC.

 

[RoyJackson]

No zerks at overlap site on my RC.

Mine neither...I just split the shaft and apply grease a couple times a season. BTW, it's easier to use the spray type lithium grease but that may not hold up as well as heavy GP grease.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

Sounds to me like your main problem is getting the driveline on the spline. A good shot of WD40 on both will make it much easier to slide on. Also, it's always good to use a cover on the spline when using implements that don't require the PTO. This helps keep it clean and ready for the next time you need to put on a driveline on the PTO spline.

 

[IslandTractor]

I just cut the PTO shaft down on my bush hog after finding it was too long when it jammed onto the tractor PTO. I just cut two inches off each side. Don't forget to cut two inches (or whatever you are cutting off the shafts) of each end of the safety shields too. I used a hacksaw blade on a cordless sawzall and it cut through like butter. I cut the tractor half in a vice but after seeing how easily it cut I just left the impliment side attached to the cutter, secured it with clamps and cut it in place. Cleaned up the burrs with a file then wiped both sides down, greased it back up and put it back together. Really only takes about 10-15 minutes and there was nothing tricky about it. Most difficult part was realigning the shaft halves and that just took a little fiddling (because the implement side was still attached and the safety shields get in the way).

 

[flINTLOCK]

Thanks, guys. Got the sawzall in the car already for this weekend.

 

[Grrrr]

There is no "end point" on the pto shafts. THey just slide into each other. There should be a grease zerk on the outer shaft to keep them sliding freely. If you have trouble sliding them, make sure they are greased up good. Maybe take it apart, clean, grease and reassemble is the best thing if you haven't been greasing.

To avoid the issues, buy a 5 or 6' long pry bar. I only back up enough to get real close -- not perfect. Then use the long bar to finesse the atttachment into place and to press the arms onto the pins (should they be tough). I also cheat and stand up facing backward to position the tractor. Easy with the HST - impossible without.

jb

Trust me, you can drive a gear tractor facing backwards

Probably not the cleverest thing to do, but sometimes necessary.

I can get all our heavy implements on pretty quickly especially with two pairs of hands, but we do it a lot

I just back up to the implement and then use the extensions. If there are no extensions you have to position the tractor perfectly. I can't be bothered with any crow bars to move big implements around.

I don't think you can move a 2 tonne plough around either with a crow bar

But if you are taking 30 mins to do it, you really are doing something wrong.