How do I unplug hydraulic lines from remote?

[AndyMA]

I've never seen any that come apart without either pulling back on the outside collar on the female end if it has one or pushing the male end end and then pulling. If you think about it, if just pulling worked why wouldn't it blow apart under pressure /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. I suspect that you pushed and then pulled when they finally came apart. The pushing doesn't result in much actual movement, just enough to get the balls to drop into their holes.

Andy

 

[stevenf]

Archdean its only 40 or so that'll probably be about our low tonight
Andy Ma I would have thought the same thing but I tried pushing in and then puliing back hard bunches of times and that didn't work. I ended up just exerting substantial pulling pressure on it and it came off. I guess they are like that so that if your going to do an ahoh it won't be hydraulic lines because they would pop right off with enough outward pressure.
Steve

 

[AndyMA]

Gee, Now I'll have to go play with a few of mine to see. I probably have 10 different kinds and quite a few new ones and the engineer in me want to know how the hack they work. BTW 8 here tonite. Just gotack from putting out hay for the horses and breaking up ice in the pond. About 4 inches.

 

[JerryG]

On most, if the sleeve is mounted, you can pull on the male hose and it will release. They are set up that way so that, if you unhook an implement and them drive away, they will pop loose. I do have a pair now that are to tight somehow that won't release with a hard pull.

 

[RoyJackson]

Those female ends (with the sleeve) have spring loaded balls or a split collar that go into a groove turned into the male end.
You've got to pull the sleeve back to release the spring pressure.

Just yanking won't do much besides bugger up the female end or ultimately, damage the hose where it's swaged into the fitting.

Granted, sometimes these are a bit on a pain. This is mostly due to an awkward position that doesn't allow for much leverage.

This might sound silly, but get one of those grip exercise things. The problem might be you don't have enough strength in your hand and fingers to do the coupling/uncoupling. I know this since I had a stroke that reduced my hand strength considerably. If you work in a job that doesn't require much manual movement, you might have to build yourself up a bit. Don't take offense, but quick-disconnects do require a certain amount of strength to connect or disconnect.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> On most, if the sleeve is mounted, you can pull on the male hose and it will release. They are set up that way so that, if you unhook an implement and them drive away, they will pop loose. I do have a pair now that are to tight somehow that won't release with a hard pull.
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Jerry thats exactly the way they work on my neighbors TN but our TC needs to have the collars pulled back to split the halves. Yanking ours only makes our arms sore.

 

[GareyD]

If you have pioneer style couplers on your rear hydraulics, which is pretty much the standard...they are designed to disconnect with a sharp pull..this is a safety feature to prevent accidentally breaking a line if you were to drive away from an implement without unhooking them...

The major cause of hard disconnects I have found is the "Break Away Collar" that holds the female part on the rear remote to the tractor itself.

Look closely at the rear disconnect...you should be able to grab the hydraulic line behind the collar and push it towards the implement...it should move about 1/8 - 1/4 inch...if not look for burrs on the break away collar or misalignment of the slip ring in the break away collar, preventing the disconnect passing by the break away collar.

See attached...note description on the "Double Break Away"

GareyD

 

[JerryG]

By mounting the collar and pulling the male hose, the sleeve is pulled back. Gary did a good job of explaining it above.

 

[penokee]

Steve
I smiled to myself when I read your post, because I went through the same situation. I should have asked for help on this Board, but didn't. Talked to several local equipment operators, but no help. Finally took the connector(?) holder off the tractor - still couldn't figure it out, so took a picture and drove 60 miles to the Dealers. I think he was trying to keep a straight face when he took me out to the yard and just pulled the hoses out as desribed earlier on the board. I admit to being hydraulically challenged among many other things - but it's all fun and learning. Posted picture that I took to the Dealer. penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[bugstruck]

I've got to get a digital camera.

This may be /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif what you are describing but the female end of the Kubota rear remote is fully encased by the remote housing. The collar on the female end if you will, is fully inside the remote casting from what I just saw. Only the male components are exterior of the valve housing. Got me off my keyster to go have a tug. Mine lines are cold and released very easily. I'm not sure if the double break away being described, and what I suspect both Steve and I have, is the same as is being referenced????

Good stuff for us beginners. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks,