HOW DO YOU TOW YOUR TRACTOR PART#2

[PoorPlowboy]

I wouldn't tow the trailer empty with that tongue situation. Does this manufacturer have anything more than an angle grinder, cutting torch, and cracker box? The trailer we built in high school shop class many years ago didn't have as shoddy work as that trailer there.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Shoddy work yes, Dangerous no!

I have had many trailers with overspray... Lazy, min wage workers... It sucks but I get over it now...

As for the "cut out" for the jack... They trimmed a end of a open 2" box tube... Nothing too structural about it.... If you are really concerned and for your own piece of mind have your buddy or a local shop, (not worth fighting the dealer anymore) just run a plate across and tie it in... Short $$.

Ramp pins are fine... Just need to hold ramps up... I've used 20P nails or the hooks from a rubber bungie tiedown in a pinch...

Good luck... Its frustrating no doubt...

 

[srs]

I am going to get the whole trailer re-welded and inspected by a friend that is an expert welder

Pappa, since you have a friend who is an expert welder I would take the trailer to him and let him go over the whole thing and get his opinion. He can reinforce the areas where he feels may be weak. A little bit of money spent on your part but then you'll have the peace of mind knowing there won't be any issues pulling the loaded trailer down the road.

And like Raydakub said let the dealer know how disappointed you are in the quality of products he is selling. Those trailers are only going to hurt his business and reputation, especially if something happens involving one of the trailers.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Pappa, since you have a friend who is an expert welder I would take the trailer to him and let him go over the whole thing and get his opinion. He can reinforce the areas where he feels may be weak. A little bit of money spent on your part but then you'll have the peace of mind knowing there won't be any issues pulling the loaded trailer down the road.

And like Raydakub said let the dealer know how disappointed you are in the quality of products he is selling. Those trailers are only going to hurt his business and reputation, especially if something happens involving one of the trailers.

Considering the dealer previously sold him an undercapacity trailer illegally (no DOT required brakes) I doubt they really care about thier reputation...They made thier buck!!!

 

[srs]

Considering the dealer previously sold him an undercapacity trailer illegally (no DOT required brakes) I doubt they really care about thier reputation...They made thier buck!!!

FF, you might be right here, they did make their buck and ultimately it will kill their business, which may not be a bad thing!

 

[PAPPASMURF]

Pappa, since you have a friend who is an expert welder I would take the trailer to him and let him go over the whole thing and get his opinion. He can reinforce the areas where he feels may be weak. A little bit of money spent on your part but then you'll have the peace of mind knowing there won't be any issues pulling the loaded trailer down the road.

And like Raydakub said let the dealer know how disappointed you are in the quality of products he is selling. Those trailers are only going to hurt his business and reputation, especially if something happens involving one of the trailers.

Thats what I am going to do. I figured that the dealer is just gonna "hear" me complain, but wont listen. They played stupid last time, but even though I know I could win a lengthy battle with them, I would rather pay for expert welding to be done (friend wont charge much at all) and have that peace of mind.

 

[PAPPASMURF]

Considering the dealer previously sold him an undercapacity trailer illegally (no DOT required brakes) I doubt they really care about thier reputation...They made thier buck!!!

Yep Firefighter....thats the way I see it too. I think that by getting other agencies involved (D.O.T. and the A.G. Office) I can make a difference by making more people aware. I am also gonna make a Thread under "Buying and Pricing" so that others that are new to the tractor world will know what to look for and what is right and wrong where trailers are concerned. I need to figure out something that new buyers will see and read months from now....not just within the week I post it (The thread will make its way down the list and out of immediate sight for newbe's). Any Idea's there?

Also....the overspray wasnt what set me off as bad as the drips everywhere on the trailer. I actually thought the trailer was wet...really wet, but it was paint that was gobbed up and dripping off of it. The overspray was just the icing on the cake. sloppy sloppy sloppy!!!:smurf:

 

[PAPPASMURF]

Shoddy work yes, Dangerous no!
I have had many trailers with overspray... Lazy, min wage workers... It sucks but I get over it now...

As for the "cut out" for the jack... They trimmed a end of a open 2" box tube... Nothing too structural about it.... If you are really concerned and for your own piece of mind have your buddy or a local shop, (not worth fighting the dealer anymore) just run a plate across and tie it in... Short $$.

Ramp pins are fine... Just need to hold ramps up... I've used 20P nails or the hooks from a rubber bungie tiedown in a pinch...

Good luck... Its frustrating no doubt...

I would think that the 2" box tube would most definately be weaker if 50% of its structure was cut out to make way for a jack that its not welded to. I am going to have a plate welded to the bottom side to add the strenght back. I spoke with my neighbor (in the concrete business with multiple bobcats / excavators/ trailers), and they way he put it to me made sense. he said that if you take a 4x4 piece of wood, and at the end of that piece of wood you cut out a 2" x 2" notch, then place weight on that very end it will break much easier because 50% 0f the structure has been taken away and then required to support the entire payload on that end. My understanding is that "box tubing" is boxed for extra strenght.....otherwise it would just be made with "L" shaped strips of metal instead of stronger box tubing. Anyway....maybe I need more education on this subject. :confused3:

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

I would think that the 2" box tube would most definately be weaker if 50% of its structure was cut out to make way for a jack that its not welded to. I am going to have a plate welded to the bottom side to add the strenght back. I spoke with my neighbor (in the concrete business with multiple bobcats / excavators/ trailers), and they way he put it to me made sense. he said that if you take a 4x4 piece of wood, and at the end of that piece of wood you cut out a 2" x 2" notch, then place weight on that very end it will break much easier because 50% 0f the structure has been taken away and then required to support the entire payload on that end. My understanding is that "box tubing" is boxed for extra strenght.....otherwise it would just be made with "L" shaped strips of metal instead of stronger box tubing. Anyway....maybe I need more education on this subject. :confused3:

For wood, yes, but for the steel, no. The tube runs to the coupler then the coupler is placed on it and welded at the rear seam joint and the side seam joint. the extra tube is just sitting under the solid one piece coupler plate. The extra tube wasn't welded to anything and doesn't really lend itself to the strength at the welded points... because its in a triangular fashion...Nor would I be concerned with the stell "folding" up at the coupler, Although a plate added underneith would only reduce any risk of failure... Anyhow. Good luck...

 

[94BULLITT]

They should have set the jack back like these trailers. Then they would have not had to cut the frame and your tailgate will go done with out getting a long ball mount. The pin that hold the ramps is large enough. The ramps look short to me. I don't like how they have the excess wire tied up. I would go over every nut and bolt to make sure everything is tight.