how important is slope on laser levil

[Ed of all trades]

I am in the planning process of building a 2000 sq ft house with a big garage, an equipment shed, 768 sq ft, and a 1200 sq ft shop, I hope. I found a big excavator that I can rent for the basement and building pads. I will need a laser level to shoot grade and am hoping to buy one instead of renting. I want to ask you all with more knowledge on this than me. I have never used slope before. I will also need to run some water lines and sewer lines. Thanks Ed

 

[boggen]

you want a "water level" cheap and very easy to DIY. the only thing ya need to keep in mind, is make sure there are no air bubbles. and make sure you "DO NOT" plug either end of the hose.

google below words...suggest clicking over on "images" after search below
how to make a water level tool
or
DIY water level

if you add some red or blue dye to the water. it can make things a little bit easier to read.

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slope is very important! in most things.

 

[BHD]

First I am not totally following your question,

but on most auto level, levels, there is a tolerance to approx., level the of the level, usually there is a bubble level, on top to get the level in tolerance so it can self level,

if your wanting slope on the grade, usually one measures, from level and increase the depth of the trench or grade accordingly,

for day light use you will need a very good laser level or some kind of reader, most cheap ones are not much good in the bright light.

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and optical level works well, just takes two people to use it, and one can buy a good one for not much off of eBay, a water level can be made for a few dollars, and can be used by ones self, if you mark the tube, and not spill any fluid..

there are some threads on water levels and other kinds of level on the board here, may be worth your time to look them up,

 

[Ed of all trades]

Some of the good self leveling lasers have a way to set the laser at a slope so you can follow it with the sensor and not have to guess. I cant use a hose because I don't want to hire someone to hold the end of a hose and I want to do this fast so I don't have to rent the machine longer than I have to.

 

[robs660]

Check out pacific laser company PLC or Hilti. Both companies make really good Rotary lasers and a fair price. Slope is great for doing grading, drainage, landscaping exc. with a receiver you can dig a very flat level hole or set forms. Once you get into pouring pads the slope is good as well.

 

[CNC Dan]

Some of the good self leveling lasers have a way to set the laser at a slope so you can follow it with the sensor and not have to guess. I cant use a hose because I don't want to hire someone to hold the end of a hose and I want to do this fast so I don't have to rent the machine longer than I have to.

you don't have to hold both ends of the hose. One end is fixed. The other end is moved around and used to make measurements.
The fixed end should have a large clear container, the mobile end a short length of clear tube(or the whole hose can be clear).
The level of water is marked on the mobile ends clear tube. You can now move around and check for hight anywhere the tube can reach.

The larger container on the fixed end keeps the water from moving up and down as the mobile end is moved up and down. If you mark the level of the water on the mobile end on the clear tube, and you raise and lower the tube untill the mark and water level line up again, you don't need the larger container on the fixed end.

 

[Fossil Farm]

If your budget allows, you can get a laser/receiver setup. The laser station stays stationary and receiver (which you hold and move around to your desired location) beeps when you are at level or when you meet the grade you dialed into the laser station. This is what most drainage and excavation contractors use, and have a tight tolerance. The higher end ones are usually sent into the manufacturer for adjustment once a year or so. If you use the slope function, be sure you stay as close to 90 degrees from the laser station to get the most accurate measurement. That is, have the station at the beginning or end of the grade run, not 100 feet away from your run. Have not priced them in awhile.

 

[JerryK]

Like above post, water level. Easy and accurate. And not expensive. You can get the kits on Ebay or Amazon with everything you need fairly cheap. They even make clear hoses you can attach onto the end of a normal garden hose. But the kits with the the clear 1/4" line works good enough.

 

[Billrog]

I have an Agatec LT300 self leveling good for 1,000' for over 10 yrs. now works good so do many others I bought mine with a magnetic receiver I can stick directly to the boom to save me getting on and off to check levels. The magnet also come off the receiver so you can use it on a stick. Beats the heck out of water hoses or any other system when shooting long distances set up a couple mins. and your digging not jumping on and off the machine checking levels.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have one with the slope feature, but have never used it. I consider it a real PITA, since I don't use it often enough to be really proficient, and it adds a significant layer of complexity. Right now I can not get it to calibrate correctly and am about to junk the fool thing.

I would rather spend the extra $ on a green laser (daylight visible) than on a slope feature. You will appreciate the green laser every time you use it, at least if you have ever used a red one.

I built my old house using a water level -- it never needs calibration and is more accurate than any laser level ever made. OTOH it is slow.

One of the things few people realize is that the real reason for leveling footer trenches is to save on the amount of concrete needed. You can level a trench "well enough" for a footer with a 6' level. Put the money you would spend on the laser into some extra ready mix and you will be faster and cheaper than trying to get it exact with a laser level. For slabs, build the forms with your 6' level and check with a water level. The finisher is the guy who really makes or breaks a slab. If he knows how to use grade stakes the floor will be good. If he doesn't the floor will be cupped or domed.