how many gallons per tire

[ewoss3]

Elmo, You may want to check your levels again. My L3010 with ag's on it took 58 gallons before they were at the valve stem level. I did notice some leakage earlier but it would stop after a few seconds. When you get the proper amount it should come out in a steady stream.

 

[ELMO67]

I thought it was strange that I could only add 48 gallons. When I did the first tire, I had a half gallon of fluid come back out (I drained the hose into an empty container to be sure, not counting what poured on the floor). When I did the second tire, after exactly 48 gallons, I disconnected the hose and a small stream of solvent trickeled out for approximately 1 minute. Could the tire size- 420/70-24 have anything to do with it? I know that in an automotive application, the "70" in a tire size is the aspect ratio on sidewall height to width, a "60" series would have a smaller o.d. than a "70" or "78" series. All the info I have seen on gallons required doesn't have any aspect ratio listed in the tire size charts,this would indicate to me that the tire sidewall is taller, giving a larger diameter tire, and require more fluid-any ideas?

 

[herbenus]

Here's how not to do it...

The attachment from tractor supply does not depress the valve plunger, as I thought it would. The drill pump could not build up any pressure. So I removed plunger from stem and went with the funnel idea. Of course this let all pressure out of tire. I had supported tractor so that tire was still on ground - deflating it dropped tractor 1/2 inch. This was enough to separate tire from rim, and I can't get air in. (Well, I can get it in but it comes right out.) I will try jacking up tractor this weekend and hope tire will seal back on rim.

But I am afraid I have a trip to the tire store coming up. And with a tire part filled with fluid. Any ideas are appreciated but I'm pretty much writing this off as a lesson of some sort.

 

[Bird]

To re-seat the bead, try jacking the tractor up enough to lift the tire clear of the floor. If the bead is only broken off on one side, there is a possibility that's all you'll have to do to air it up. However, if that doesn't do it, wrap something around the center of the tread that you can tighten. When you tighten a band of some type around the center of the tread that pulls it in toward the center and causes the bead to spread out and make contact. I've used a variety of "bands" to do that; everything from the inflatable ones that tire shops use to a come-a-long (winch pulley) to the ratcheting straps used to tie down loads on a trailer. Just remember to start loosening the band as the tire starts to take air. And it's really quite simple.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/47-216263-SeatingtheBeadBeforeCloseup%3D800.jpg>I was ready to take my wheel off this summer when I lost the bead... (from a slow nagging leak)...</A>

 

[JohnMiller3]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/47-216266-SeatingtheBeadofAg%27safter-800.jpg>But... this was my solution for seating the bead right on the tractor...</A>
/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

Very good, John. I didn't have a picture to go with my explanation./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>... I didn't have a picture to go with my explanation...</font color=blue>

C'mon Bird... don't tell me, you ran out of film for your digital camera now... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[herbenus]

Great idea. I have both the bands as shown and a chain and boomer. With flat profile of industrial tire it should be a cinch. (sorry). I wish I would of thought of this when I changed the tire on my old riding lawn mower. I must have put 4 hours work into it before taking it to a tire store. Thanks a bunch.
You saved me money, time, and a little embarassment, and people will think I'm so smart when they find out how I fixed it.

 

[RoyJackson]

The attachment from tractor supply does not depress the valve plunger, as I thought it would. The drill pump could not build up any pressure. So I removed plunger from stem and went with the funnel idea.

Jack the tractor up. Rotate the tire to the 10:30 or 11:00 position.
Deflate the tire by depressing the valve core.
Remove the valve core.
Thread the air/liquid adapter onto the vavle stem thread.
Screw the hose from your drill operated pump onto the air/liquid adapter.
Fill the tire to the desired percentage (at the 10:30 to 11:00 O'clock position, this should be 75 to 80 percent), depressing the air bleed button on the air/liquid adapter occasionally.
When the air/liquid adapapter bleeds out liquid only, you're done with it, the pump/drill and liquid.
Leave the tire at the 10:30-11:00 position.
Re-install the valve core.
Air the tire to the desired pressure.

Dejack the tractor (or, if you do as I did, the jack is under the drawbar housing with jack stands under the axle on both sides).

Repeat this process on the other side of the tractor.