Hydraulic pump weak

[lakespirit]

Yes, another issue to resolve. I use and abuse this poor little tractor (KAMA TS 254C). My hydraulics are sloooowww. I've cleaned the reservoir, flushed the system, replaced the filter, and both valve adjustments on the front and side of the tank are wide open. I've fiddled with many ope-shut combos I can think of. I must rev the engine to 2000rpm to get the loader up and it's still slower than molasses.

Are they rebuildable? How about for the back-yard wrench like me?

 

[Soundguy]

Any time you dink with hyds it's always good to plumb in a gauge to see what pressure is being developed... a weak pump can be as simple as a stuck relief valve!

soundguy

 

[Eagleview]

If you know for a fact it's worn out and you just want to give it a little pep , try changing the hydraulic oil to 15w40 engine oil . It wont rebuild it but it does make a difference .

 

[greg_g]

Are they rebuildable? How about for the back-yard wrench like me?

Yes, but that may be a bit premature. What about your rear lift? Is it any slower than usual? I ask - because I'm pretty sure it's run by the same pump. As for rebuilding, that's pretty much limited to seal replacement. If there's damage to the housing or the rollers, that's pretty much replacement times. With a seal issue though, I'd expect to see signs of leakage - either internal (into the engine oil) or external - and an otherwise unexplained loss of fluid from the hydraulic sump.

If your TS254C loader is plumbed anything like the one on my TS354C, there are half a dozen QD connectors in the loop. They can/will/do clog up, as can the valves in the joystick controller. IF that's the case, putting in thicker hydraulic fluid may only worsen the situtation.

If this issue arose on my 354 - assuming no obvious fluid loss - first thing I'd do is clean out all the QDs. They can be unscrewed from the hose ends, and washed out individually. If that works, I'd count myself lucky - because it's a bit more complicated to clean the controller. After I knew my flow through those components was unrestricted - AND if the loader was still slow - then I'd try the thicker fluid experiment; AW46 or AW68 to start.

//greg//

 

[DwayneB]

Are they rebuildable? How about for the back-yard wrench like me?

I've rebuilt one. I blew the seals while under warranty. Chip sent me a new pump and I ordered a seal kit for 25 bucks and rebuilt the spare. I put the rebuilt one back on and put the new one on the shelf for a spare.

The kits are cheap and a good spare part to have around even if you don't need it.

I hate those chinese quick connects. I've gradually gotten rid of them.

 

[arveeotto]

Lakespirit

Is your steering and 3ph also slow? If it is only the loader that is slow, remove pressure relief valve on loader valves and clean. I have had this happen twice where a paint chip held PRV partially open causing extremely slow loader operation.

Rick

 

[3RRL]

What the guys are saying about checking the QD's and pressure relief valves in the system is very important. Not only that, but those Chinese valves are not the greatest and they leak past spools from one to another and cause all kinds of problems ... specifically poor performance. I'd check the valves and QD's and also look for any other restrictions.

If you plumb a pressure gauge into the system, you can set all the pressure reliefs to the proper amount. On my wife's 284 Jinma, the rear remote valve is faulty and so is the pressure relief on it. I plumbed in a pressure gauge and set the main system at 2321psi and all the valves at 2200psi (my choice). However, that one rear remote valve was malfunctioning. When operated it fluctuated on the gauge between 800psi and 1200psi ... I couldn't adjust the pressure relief on it either. I tried making several adjustments with no difference. It's just a crummy valve and I'm taking it out of the system.

Having said all that, if everything checks out fine and you still want better pump performance, you could buy a larger pump with more flow. You can get them from Tommy or Ronald or Chip. I did that for my Kama 554 and got tremendous results going that way. You may want to check which pump you have and go one or two sizes up. Just be sure the spline is correct for your Jinma.
Here's a thread to that.
CBN-E320 Pump for Kama 554

 

[lakespirit]

Do you know how much pumps cost?

 

[Eagleview]

I had thought of buying a Chinese tractor for smaller jobs but if thier filtration system is so bad that they can have material big enough floating around to block fittings i'll pass . Do they use chicken wire for filters ?

 

[greg_g]

I had thought of buying a Chinese tractor for smaller jobs but if thier filtration system is so bad that they can have material big enough floating around to block fittings i'll pass . Do they use chicken wire for filters ?

No filtration per se, typically suction side screens inside the sump - some of which are user replaceable. I use 80x80 brass mesh on mine. A few (not including Jeff's) have external elements, but are typically just 125-150 micron screens inside a spin-on housing.

I don't know if this is any better or worse than "other than Chinese" tractors. But I do know that a lot of the Chinese QDs are problematic. especially the cone type. It doesn't take much grit to constitute blockage. And if you're not careful when opening/closing QDs, the grit doesn't even have to come from the hydraulic fluid.

//greg//