Egon
Epic Contributor
Hit it with a needle scaler and evaluate. If okay give it a dose of phosphoric acid and clean up. Final coat of rust preventative paint spray.
I have a bad feeling about this
- Thread starter SylvainG
- Start date
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
Oh no, that rim is terrible, and it's not even 20 years old...
Here's what the worst (from the outside ) of both wheels look like.
Not knowing how bad the shape was, I was worried about a catastrophic failure/explosion so I used my thick welding gloves and protective glasses as well as grinded from the side of the wheels, just in case.
For now, being below freezing, I've applied Fluid Film over the brushed off part. Probably useless at this point though
etpm
Veteran Member
Iy looks to me like your rims are fine. If these were my rims I wouldn't replace them. Make sure you remove ALL the rust, treat with a rust converter, which will contain phosphoric acid, and then paint.Here's what the worst (from the outside ) of both wheels look like.
Not knowing how bad the shape was, I was worried about a catastrophic failure/explosion so I used my thick welding gloves and protective glasses as well as grinded from the side of the wheels, just in case.
For now, being below freezing, I've applied Fluid Film over the brushed off part. Probably useless at this point though
Eric
arrow
Super Member
The rims don't look fine to me if that's a crack I'm looking at.. If you're seeing this on the outside, what must the internal parts of the rims look like?
CC traditionally is pumped into tubes. Some part of the tube let go and the stuff cascaded onto your rims.
I had cc in my tractor for 28 yrs. A valve stem allowed the stuff to seep into the inside of one of the rims. I tigged this dime size hole shut after I completely smoothed out by sanding, filling and then sanding again so the new tubes would not get abraded. I then painted inside the rims with bridge paint.
While I'm not gonna say all corrosion on rims means a throwaway, there is no viable short cut to corroded rims to get them able again to accept a new tube with fluid inserted.
CC traditionally is pumped into tubes. Some part of the tube let go and the stuff cascaded onto your rims.
I had cc in my tractor for 28 yrs. A valve stem allowed the stuff to seep into the inside of one of the rims. I tigged this dime size hole shut after I completely smoothed out by sanding, filling and then sanding again so the new tubes would not get abraded. I then painted inside the rims with bridge paint.
While I'm not gonna say all corrosion on rims means a throwaway, there is no viable short cut to corroded rims to get them able again to accept a new tube with fluid inserted.
LouNY
Super Star Member
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
One major problem with calcium filled tires is that it is good when properly installed in good tubes.
To do the job "properly" is very time consuming. Also a second consideration is that todays tubes are no where near the quality and durability of just ten years ago.
When a calcuim filled tire is worked on because of a flat, calcium has gotten in the tire carcass and rim. Once a tube has been pumped down and removed from the tire the entire tire and rim has to be thoroughly washed out and extremely well rinsed. The tire repaired if needed and if the tube is going to be repaired it is going to require scrubbing to be cleaned enough to reinstall after repairing. Any residual calcium chloride left on the tube, tire or rim is going to cause major corrosion problems.
Even at $80-$120 for a new tube that is less then the labor charge would be to clean and repair a tube, unfortunately.
Once a rim has rust and corrosion started it can be saved but only if you do not consider your time as a cost or dollar value.
Starting with the wire brushing (power) to get the scale and rot off the rim then the grinding to clean up the rim where it will need welding to replace the missing metal and the repairing of the valve stem hole as is often required then grinding the welds smooth as a babies butt do as not to chafe a tube. Then priming and painting with quality paints letting it cure and then remounting everything. You are looking at 3-5 days of your labor, and if paying someone else to do the labor you will spend more then a new rim even if you have to have a new rim custom made.
I have repaired rims before, the tractor is down for a week and it is a lot of time and tedious work to do a good job and it is too much work to do a halfassed repair that will not last.
This rim had damages that required repair at the valve stem hole and on both sides of it.
I didn't think to take a picture as I was repairing the valve stem hole, I had welded in a washer and ground it to the proper shape before the repairs next to it.
The finished project
This was the starting point, the damage was around the valve stem hole and on both sides of it.
It was better then a week long part time project .
To do the job "properly" is very time consuming. Also a second consideration is that todays tubes are no where near the quality and durability of just ten years ago.
When a calcuim filled tire is worked on because of a flat, calcium has gotten in the tire carcass and rim. Once a tube has been pumped down and removed from the tire the entire tire and rim has to be thoroughly washed out and extremely well rinsed. The tire repaired if needed and if the tube is going to be repaired it is going to require scrubbing to be cleaned enough to reinstall after repairing. Any residual calcium chloride left on the tube, tire or rim is going to cause major corrosion problems.
Even at $80-$120 for a new tube that is less then the labor charge would be to clean and repair a tube, unfortunately.
Once a rim has rust and corrosion started it can be saved but only if you do not consider your time as a cost or dollar value.
Starting with the wire brushing (power) to get the scale and rot off the rim then the grinding to clean up the rim where it will need welding to replace the missing metal and the repairing of the valve stem hole as is often required then grinding the welds smooth as a babies butt do as not to chafe a tube. Then priming and painting with quality paints letting it cure and then remounting everything. You are looking at 3-5 days of your labor, and if paying someone else to do the labor you will spend more then a new rim even if you have to have a new rim custom made.
I have repaired rims before, the tractor is down for a week and it is a lot of time and tedious work to do a good job and it is too much work to do a halfassed repair that will not last.
This rim had damages that required repair at the valve stem hole and on both sides of it.
I didn't think to take a picture as I was repairing the valve stem hole, I had welded in a washer and ground it to the proper shape before the repairs next to it.
The finished project
This was the starting point, the damage was around the valve stem hole and on both sides of it.
It was better then a week long part time project .
Egon
Epic Contributor
Air, needle sprayer.