I stopped my 1950 TEA20 from running ?

[Gazza63]

Well, nothing fits straight up.
I have started stripping the new loom to get sections to fit.
I will use a wiring diagram as a guide.
I thought the new loom would fit straight on

 

[Agvg]

Wrong type of engine on it?

 

[Gazza63]

I was told at Bare Co that the loom would fit. ?
It will, with work!

 

[Gazza63]

Okay, its has been a while but i would like to get this tractor going.
I am goin to run the wires from the loom, as stated earlier nothing fits.
It is a petrol, 12v negative earth alternator set up.
Is there some instructions i can get hold of?

 

[Jerry/MT]

Okay, its has been a while but i would like to get this tractor going.
I am goin to run the wires from the loom, as stated earlier nothing fits.
It is a petrol, 12v negative earth alternator set up.
Is there some instructions i can get hold of?

Go to the FENA website There are circuit diagrams there.

 

[rScotty]

Our old JD 530 gas tractor sounds a lot like yours. The ignition switch just turns on the ignition. There is a starter button to crank the starter.

All too often, I see folks who start re-furbishing old tractors get hung up on generators and voltage regulators until the whole project loses interest. Here is an alternative:

If just starting out with yours I would go buy a good 12 volt AGM type battery. Charged up by a trickle charger overnight, that battery will start the tractor dozens of times if not more.... and also run it for ten or twenty hours easily and give you enough lights to drive home as well. You can plug the battery into a battery maintainer type of trickle charger when not using the tractor. Lots and lots of farm tractors work just like that for years.

Replace or inspect the battery cables to the frame and to the starter. You will probably need new battery post connectors at least. Amazon ones are about $12.00 a set. Pos and Neg battery terminals are different sizes!!

Then get a carb kit or just the float bowl parts. I use steinertractor.com. Take off the carb float bowl, and replace the carb float, needle, and seat and the bowl gasket. That's all for now and will cure the leak. Before starting this, make sure you can turn off the gas to the carb when working on the carb and always when not running the tractor. If there isn't a finger valve to do that in the fuel line to the carb then add one.

Replace the points, plugs, and particularly the distributor cap and spark plug wires. Of these things, it is often the spark plug wires and ends that make the most difference. Clean up the old spark plugs and reuse them for now.

Done...
good luck,
rScotty

 

[Gazza63]

Go to the FENA website There are circuit diagrams there.

Jerry, appreciate that, but what is the FENA website?
I did google it but some pretty irrelevant sites came up.

 

[Gazza63]

Our old JD 530 gas tractor sounds a lot like yours. The ignition switch just turns on the ignition. There is a starter button to crank the starter.

All too often, I see folks who start re-furbishing old tractors get hung up on generators and voltage regulators until the whole project loses interest. Here is an alternative:

If just starting out with yours I would go buy a good 12 volt AGM type battery. Charged up by a trickle charger overnight, that battery will start the tractor dozens of times if not more.... and also run it for ten or twenty hours easily and give you enough lights to drive home as well. You can plug the battery into a battery maintainer type of trickle charger when not using the tractor. Lots and lots of farm tractors work just like that for years.

Replace or inspect the battery cables to the frame and to the starter. You will probably need new battery post connectors at least. Amazon ones are about $12.00 a set. Pos and Neg battery terminals are different sizes!!

Then get a carb kit or just the float bowl parts. I use steinertractor.com. Take off the carb float bowl, and replace the carb float, needle, and seat and the bowl gasket. That's all for now and will cure the leak. Before starting this, make sure you can turn off the gas to the carb when working on the carb and always when not running the tractor. If there isn't a finger valve to do that in the fuel line to the carb then add one.

Replace the points, plugs, and particularly the distributor cap and spark plug wires. Of these things, it is often the spark plug wires and ends that make the most difference. Clean up the old spark plugs and reuse them for now.

Done...
good luck,
rScotty

Scotty,
So maybe no alternator and just charge the battery as needed, okay i can try that.
I would like to get the alternator going at some time though.

I will overhall the carby and do the plugs and points and replace the inline valve to the carby, i feel that it leaks slowly anyway.

thank you for the advice.

Gary A

 

[rScotty]

Scotty,
So maybe no alternator and just charge the battery as needed, okay i can try that.
I would like to get the alternator going at some time though.

I will overhall the carby and do the plugs and points and replace the inline valve to the carby, i feel that it leaks slowly anyway.

thank you for the advice.

Gary A

Nothing wrong with fixing the old generator and regulator or using a modern alternator with a built in regulator. (three wire type). But no real need to attack that first.

Yes, carbs and petcocks leak now. No getting around it. Back in the day when our tractors were new and gasoline was simple the materials used in contact with gasoline were not attacked by the fluid.
There are materials that stand up to today's gasoline; many cars and motorcycles use them and have for years. But they haven't entirely migrated into the replacement tractor parts market. You can still buy a new carb kit for your old tractor whichhas rubber parts that won't last a year with today's fuel.

What I do is shut off the fuel and run it until it quits to empty the float. This does nothing for the fuel shutoff, so I use modern plastic fuel hose with a motorcycle petcock inline.

Replacing the graphite-filled spark plug wires with real stranded copper core wires makes a difference in old spark ignition machines. These old tractor coils didn't put out a lot of spark - and some of that is lost in the distributor.
It also helps to use spark plug caps that are simply wire connectors - like the racers use - instead of the common aftermarket plug caps that are specifically designed to reduce radio interference by supressing a quick spark.

These old slow rpm high torque gasoline tractors are powerful and quet, but they were oddly specialized around the common materials of their time.

rScotty

 

[Jerry/MT]

Jerry, appreciate that, but what is the FENA website?
I did google it but some pretty irrelevant sites came up.

Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America (FENA). It has a lot of technical info on these old Harry Ferguson tractors.