It's time; either get started or....

[NormL]

Ditto what NormL said... Post it.

I have to go accross a driveway. I'm not sure that a ripper type puller would do the trick.

Don't you need a vibrator on those rippers when you do runs across roads? I guess it could be a challenge to add that to your home built rig. We had the telephone company run extra lines underground and the contractor used a ripper on the driveway but to get to the other side of the municipal road where the junction box stood they drilled under the ditch and road and another ditch to the box. Now THERE'S a toy!:thumbsup:

 

[NormL]

I was able to get in some shop time today. I put a kink in the boom cutting free hand again. Careful measuring and marker work paid off and when i bent the beam to close the gap, the edges matched almost perfectly.:thumbsup: Clamping in the vise and minimal shimming was all it took to match them up.
In the first photo you will see I have left the 5" side unwelded. Since I will be welding 1/4" plate on each side for mounting the cylinders for operating the boom and the dipper, effectively covering that gap, I'm wondering whether I need to fill it. If I don't weld it I don't have to grind it! Second picture shows what I have welded. Not finished there yet. I'll fill a little more and then grind it a bit.

Next I have to shape the angle like Iplayfarmer has on his boom. Then it will be on to fashioning the platform for the pivot and hydraulics.

 

[dcyrilc]

I'm no expert, but I would think that welding, grinding, and then plating it would be much stronger than just plating it.

 

[NormL]

I'm no expert, but I would think that welding, grinding, and then plating it would be much stronger than just plating it.

One of the reasons I'm thinking I could skip that step is because that hunk of steel is about twice the size and strength I really need. I bought it because the price was right. But if plating it is deemed to be insufficient, I'll fill it and grind it like a good little boy.

 

[mjncad]

Fill it, grind it, then add the gusset plates. I know grinding welds sucks; but you'll kick yourself down the road should you have to fix the boom because you didn't want to grind a couple of welds.

 

[NormL]

Thanks for the advice guys! Looks like filling and grinding is the better route. Thanks.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

That's a pretty impressive fit considering you cut it freehand. Good Job!

 

[NormL]

That's a pretty impressive fit considering you cut it freehand. Good Job!

Thanks Iplayfarmer. What had me worried though, was doing the second kink on that boom. Well, I sneaked into the shop after supper and did some more cutting. I need not have worried too much. The cutting went well, albeit slowly.

The first photo shows how much of a correction is needed to line the cut up for welding. The second shows the not so straight cut; the weld will hide that. Third shot demonstrates my high tech folding process.:laughing::laughing: I hope you will excuse the clutter. There's probably a personality measuring device somewhere that takes scenes like this and analyzes the nut bar who owns the place.

 

[NormL]

Now that we have internet again,:thumbsuphad to cut some branches away) I hope I can get some critical advice from you engineering types. I've stripped away the fenders and the console to expose the frame and fuel tank. I'm planning to use the same tank but I'll need to brace the hitching plate. In photo #2 you can see how I plan to place the brace. That is 2"x1/4" flat and will be cut and trimmed to fit behind the hitching plate. That way I hope to be able to reinstall the fenders and seat brackets. I'll fashion a swivel for the operator's seat.

My question is: will this bracing be adequate or will a subframe be needed? If I have to go with a subframe then I'll have to modify the dozer blade mount. That might not be a bad idea but clearance would be an issue. Thoughts?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I vote subframe. On a tractor, subframes are a good idea. On a lawn tractor it's essential.