jd 214t baler
- Thread starter donais
- Start date
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
No need to get radical yet. It is a little difficult to help with this stuff from one coast to the other. If you were near by, we could likely get you squared away in just a few hours, but we will do the best we can with what we have to work with.
If you want, mail me the 130 and I can use it in my round baler. Or maybe some one in your area has a round baler who can use it.
I thought the sisal was usually 9000. Do not get to discouraged, you have people here willing to set straight what the sales men mess up. Good twine is not that hard to come by. Around here the big "farm" store is TSC or Tractor Supply Co. They carry sisal small square, plastic round bale and plastic big square. I have never seen them to carry the plastic small square, but I digress. Good twine should not be that hard to come by, a box of 170-9600 should do 500 plus bales unless you are making them really small.
Were the bill hooks holding the thin 130? If so you may be fine to use 170 knot strength plastic. It usually comes in 7200 or 9600 balls. But your baler was never built when plastic twine was even conceived yet. Probably best to get everything working right with the sisal, and then you can try the plastic after you know the knotters are working properly.
If you want, mail me the 130 and I can use it in my round baler. Or maybe some one in your area has a round baler who can use it.
I thought the sisal was usually 9000. Do not get to discouraged, you have people here willing to set straight what the sales men mess up. Good twine is not that hard to come by. Around here the big "farm" store is TSC or Tractor Supply Co. They carry sisal small square, plastic round bale and plastic big square. I have never seen them to carry the plastic small square, but I digress. Good twine should not be that hard to come by, a box of 170-9600 should do 500 plus bales unless you are making them really small.
Were the bill hooks holding the thin 130? If so you may be fine to use 170 knot strength plastic. It usually comes in 7200 or 9600 balls. But your baler was never built when plastic twine was even conceived yet. Probably best to get everything working right with the sisal, and then you can try the plastic after you know the knotters are working properly.
oh it takes alot for me to get discouraged. i think this is just amazing how so many things can all work in harmony. the hooks seemed to be holding it fine. to get to a tsc it takes a 6 hour drive to bakersfield fun field trip just costly so i get to order everything online. 2 hour drive to the closest place i know of to get twine. and round balers are nonexistent here they would not know hoe to move them. i wish i could find them here, the best we can do is the dairy 3x3x8 footers
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
If they are holding the 130 fine then you can probably use plastic. Plastic has always given me better results anyway.
Have you adjusted the wipers yet and sharpened the twine knife?
Have you adjusted the wipers yet and sharpened the twine knife?
yes tightened and sharpened the knives they cut real clean. before i adjusted the wiper it would not completely take the knot off,after the needle twine seem ti not be entering the twine disc but i really haven't had a chance to check that out so im holding judgement until i get the new shear bolt in.. also how thght should the shear bolt be tightened to? could not find that in the book.
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
As to needle twine into twine disc. The clearance between the needle and the top edge of the twine disc should be really really small, just barely clearing. The adjustment for this is on the needle lift arm. There are two bolt holding the needle to the arm. You will see how if you loosen the bottom and tighten the top it will draw the needle closer down, or the opposite if it is actually hitting the twine disc. You may need to remove the needle to loosen up the bolts and get them adjusting properly, use never sieze, the farmers best friend. Also make sure the needle just barley contacts the right side of the knotter frame. If the needle is too high, you will miss tye. (Had this happen to me a few years back, but was able to adjust and keep going in the field.) If you have to adjust the needle down, recheck the clearance on the tucker fingers. They too should just barely clear the needle when the come across the face of it.
No real spec on the shear bolt tightness. It should be a locking nut that comes with it. Just good and snug will do. Don't crank the day lights out of it.
No real spec on the shear bolt tightness. It should be a locking nut that comes with it. Just good and snug will do. Don't crank the day lights out of it.
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
looking forward to pics, do the best you can for these hold eyes do not see a clearly as they used to.
ok today i got the shear bolts and the sisal twine. got it all put together and checked the tensions. fired it up and both knots still were hanging up so i polished the bill hook a little. the left one would now drop the knot but the needle twine would not tie,so i un adjusted the tucker finger to close to where it was before i started messing with it. the right one still would not drop the knot on inspection the pivot pin on the tongue area was cracked, luckly when i got my sickle mower he gave me a tone of extra parts for the mower and i had a brand new bill hook in the bucket. i put it on and now left is knotting pretty well 9 out of 10 and the right in 0 out of 10. i think im gonna try to un adjust the tucker finger tomorrow. the bale side is making a knot but the needle side is just sitting inside the other knot
