So your issue isn't going to be improved with the fuel line that was used. For starters it is the wrong size. You noted that your fuel is drawn from the top of the tank. Anything that prevents a perfect seal will allow the line to drain back into the tank. Me, I would get a good braided 1/4" fuel line plus install an inline shut off that you can use for longer periods of storage.
JD 260 fuel pump loses prime when sitting for a few weeks
- Thread starter jjeff
- Start date
Richard001
Veteran Member
What tomplum said plus, you need to check the pulse line from the engine to the pump. If the pulse line is original, replace it. Use standard fuel line for it.
More than likely, the pump needs to be refurbished or replaced.
Here is a cut and paste from the engine manual:
Item 7 are the check valves that keep the prime on the pump and also are part of the pumping action.
Richard
More than likely, the pump needs to be refurbished or replaced.
Here is a cut and paste from the engine manual:
Item 7 are the check valves that keep the prime on the pump and also are part of the pumping action.
Richard
OP
jjeff
Elite Member
Probably should have said 5/16 I believe anyways I have 1/4" tygon also used the existing barbed fittings on pump and carb and the tygon fit snuggly I really like tygon over any other fuel lines I have used cuz its always flexible and never failed me yet i believe. Abrasion resistance is sub par especially compared to braided SS but have wrapped tygon in plastic wire wrap, securing it with mini zip ties with decent results, if I feel necessary I'll do it again. I did think of using a shut off between pump and fuel tank probably might try it. Although if I end up needing more than one I'll probably just go with a primer ball for simplicity. Fuel hose comes out of top of tank there is a pickup connected to it leading to bottom inside tank.
OP
jjeff
Elite Member
So many options to make this work I might price a pump rebuild kit. Good point on the valve that's probably not holding a prime.
Richard001
Veteran Member
If I understand what you are saying correctly, you are NOT using hose clamps at the end of the fuel line. Band wraps will not clamp the hose securely to the barbed fitting, resulting in leaks that you are are experiencing.
Richard
beenthere
Super Star Member
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A quote from something else I just read on a different forum. No idea if it is similar, but just another "thought" to ponder.
OP
jjeff
Elite Member
Probably change fuel filter when I pm that thing this spring had it running today for quite awhile and like before starts easy and runs great after that pumps primed from sitting for a few months, One thing I'm slightly leery of is getting nickel and dimed by that lawn tractor because I've heard (please verify if you know) that 540 vertical shaft Kawasaki motor uses a plastic cam and or oil pump gear?
oldnslo
Super Member
Not sure on how that engine is built but if you have mechanical skills not a terribly difficult job to replace those gears.
I have seen three different failure modes.
1) timing gears on cam go. Have not seen engine damage from this but could be possible.
2) governor gear broke, engine would idle or run away nothing in between. Fixed this one for a friend
3) oil pump drive gear fails and ruins the block. Seen this on two larger EFI engines. Both engines required new short block.
I have seen three different failure modes.
1) timing gears on cam go. Have not seen engine damage from this but could be possible.
2) governor gear broke, engine would idle or run away nothing in between. Fixed this one for a friend
3) oil pump drive gear fails and ruins the block. Seen this on two larger EFI engines. Both engines required new short block.