I usually use an 8 or 10 pound hammer to hit on the bolt. You need to hit it hard and don't be afraid. I usually keep the flat washer on the long bolt so the shaft doesn't fly across the floor when it comes out. Usually 3 or 4 solid hits with the sledge hammer will break it loose.
JD2020 power steering leak
- Thread starter DogT
- Start date
OK, I'll try again tomorrow. I first hit it with a 2# and then a 3# and then the digging bar from the end, which must be about 15#. I've got an 8# maul, I'll try that next, didn't realize the shaft will come out so I'll put the flat washer back on. I'd really prefer if I didn't have to send it in. I was being a bit cautious, I suppose I can thread that 6" bolt in all the way, there doesn't appear to be anything on the other side that will hinder doing that? I notice to that there's some end play on that shaft and when I hit it I make sure that the arm is pushed all the way up against the trans body, maybe I should try it away from the body to give it some momentum?
The 8 lb. maul did it. I put some blocks of wood beside the bolt on the trans in case I missed, got up on the foot rests and swung it backwards between my legs where I could get better action than standing off to the side with the digging bar and it finally broke loose. Now to get the old seal out and the new one in.
All buttoned up. The second worst thing was putting the shaft back on the steering arm. I had to enlist my wife who held the shaft and turned it while I manipulated the steering arm. I always have trouble with seals, but I got it in without beating it up. Used a piece of 2" pvc as a driver. It finally went into place. Any ideas on the torque on the 5/8" bolt? Lots?
Zebrafive
Super Member
If the arm to shaft cap screw, 170ft-lb. Tech manual says tighten to 170, strike with a hammer and retighten to 170ft-lb.
Thanks, I'm not sure why I didn't look in my tech manual. Age I guess. I haven't lit it off yet, I'll power wash it when I get it started, or I may just go ahead and get the mid pto seal and install that first after a drain. I did see in the book they show 2 places to drain the trans fluid but I'll pull the long filter first and see what comes out of there.
I ran the 2020 for about an hour today and it appears that I still have a leak in the PS shaft seal. I think I'm just going to have it hauled in and fixed. Everything else appears good. It even seems to run better, especially the hydraulics, probably from fixing the serious leak in the hyd pressure control valve.
I'm wondering if I should try installing the seal again, or just have someone else do it. Is there any magic to get this seal installed without leaking? It appeared to go in fine, seated flush with the surface and there didn't appear any problem getting the shaft back in place, it wasn't hard to put back, getting the steering rod into the pin that holds it in the shaft arms. I did have to get the wife hold the shaft while I fiddled with the steering arm to get it on the splines. I could probably do it in a couple hours now outside getting the sealant off the cover and re-installing a new gasket. I took a good look up the arm today and it appears to be coming right out the bottom of the seal, I can see the seal against the housing from underneath. It doesn't look like that much fluid coming out from the seal, but by the time it gets to the bottom of the housing, it's all over and dripping. The mid-pto seal I installed is not leaking and that one got seated a bit deep.
Tx Jim
New Member
If it was my tractor I'd attempt to replace the seal again. The 2nd attempt should be easier. Good luck on your decision.
Yes, I'm going to do it again unless I can find someone reliable that will come out and work on it, hauling is too expensive. The trouble is the seal has to go on before the shaft is pushed back through the arm, it would be better if the seal could go on just before the arm goes on the shaft and after the shaft is attached to the PS rod from above, but it doesn't appear that's possible. What I think I will do is have the wheels crancked to the right so I don't have to rotate/shift things any more than needed. It shouldn't take me a couple hours now that I've had the arm off the shaft and I sort of know what I'm doing. I think draining oil out of that Allen bolt for the long filter will be enough to get the oil level low enough, that drained almost 5G as I remember.