JD2020 power steering leak

[Zebrafive]

IIRCC there a is a drain plug directly below the oval cover on the right side of the clutch housing. Remove it to just drain that.

Did you inspect the shaft where it goes through the seal? Polish it with crocus cloth or 400 wet/dry sand paper?

 

[DogT]

Thanks, I remember that plug now from the tech manual, that's better than 5 gallons. I'll certainly take a good look at the shaft this time, I didn't last time. The old seal didn't look that bad, no nicks, but it certainly was hard, like all the other seals I've replaced. It'll be a few days before the parts come in again, then it'll depend on the weather and when the wife can help by holding the shaft while I install the arm. I suppose I could rig up something to hold the shaft if she's not around.

 

[DogT]

Today I took the PS shaft out again, looked at the seal and actually it looked fine, but I could see it was leaking easy enough. Noticed there are some deep splines on the shaft, so I seated the old seal in as far as it would go, near as I could tell. Shaft was smooth and bright. I had only seated the seal to the surface before. Put it all back together, tomorrow I'll put some oil in it and check again after the power wash. I can't see how it could be easy to damage the seal, there's a perfectly good bushing that keeps the shaft in place, both ends. Started about 10:30, quit at 3:30 with taking plenty of time and lunch, so it really doesn't take that long. I even got the shaft back on the arm without the wife, but it was a bit tricky, it would go faster with help. I could have actually even re-sealed the old gasket the way it came off. If it doesn't' leak, I'll put the RS foot rest back on, I wanted to wash it off first. I guess I'll try the new seal if it still leaks.

 

[DogT]

That seems to have stopped the leak from the PS shaft. I'm sure the seal just was not seated deep enough and some of the spline cuts into the shaft were letting oil leak out around the seal, as fast as it was coming out.

Now I may think about fixing the front steering pin which is a bit loose and also replace the loader control valves. At some point I would really like to take the rockshaft off and get into the trans to see if I can get more of that metal out, I can see there's a lot in the trans but it doesn't' seem to be circulating in the system much from what I get on the magnets in the filter.

 

[Zebrafive]

I replaced the bellcrank bushings on 2030, not a bad job.
The 2030 has an independent mid loader valve. It leaked a lot. I replaced the O-rings (4 total) on each end of the two spools that fixed the leaks.

 

[DogT]

I replaced the seals and all in the loader valves to no avail. I hear the only thing to do is replace the valve, there's an aftermarket one for $250 but the lines come off the top, not the bottom. I may be able to turn the control valve plate upside down, I'll have to investigate before I go that far. The front end loader works, it just creeps up slowly all the time.

I've got a nice chain hoist and a couple 2x10x12' beams I can throw across the barn supports to raise the front end. I've done it before when I split the 2020 in half to replace the throwout bearing. But I was 25 years younger then and had more motivation. I'm just glad most of the oil leaks are stopped for now.

 

[Zebrafive]

Glad you figured out the seal and posted that information. Good luck finding a replacement valve.

 

[DogT]

I think it was Jim that gave me this link. 2 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB21GB5C1 DA VALVE W/FLOAT Like I said, the attachments are on the top. But that may be the last thing I go for, it's just an irritant at this point.

 

[DogT]

Mowed for over 2 hours today and the bottom of the tractor is clean for the first time in 25 years. WooHoo. It sounds different too. The creeping on the loader is faster now, prolly more hyd pressure from the new o-rings in the pressure control valve.