My 2006 254 has been hard to start since i bought it a few months ago. It used to start after until accidently leaving the fuel tap off and running out of fuel. After repriming It then would not start at all and produced lots of white smoke which i believe may be unburnt fuel. The only way i got it to go was keep trying for a very long time or as i figured out eventually a jumper start. Once it started the white smoke cleared up. Ive since got rid of the fuel strainer and tap and fitted an external filter. Ive also replaced the glow plugs. It still wont start on this battery even though it reads 13.4volts between the starter positive and chassis and the little window on top of the battery is green. Its not a big issue as it is most likely a weak battery but i do find it strange as it caused me a fair bit of grief trying to figure it out and this may be of use to someone. Ill get the battery tested once i get around to it.
Jimna 254 hard starting
- Thread starter Jimmy254
- Start date
piper184
Gold Member
Good plan. You can test the battery yourself. Read the voltage while you are cranking it over. If below ~10v the battery is most likely getting weak.
Glow plugs can be tested with a multi-meter set to read ohms. I don't remember the resistance off the top of my head, but you can check against a new one for comparison. If you test them in the engine, you have to remove the bus bar at the top otherwise you test them all and not just the individual plugs.
Are you aware of the procedure to use the hand primer pump and the bleeder screws to get air out of the fuel system? Once the fuel system is purged that far, it will usually start after a bit of cranking. If not, you sometimes have to crack the hard line nuts at the injectors and crank some more to get the air out of the hard lines.
Glow plugs can be tested with a multi-meter set to read ohms. I don't remember the resistance off the top of my head, but you can check against a new one for comparison. If you test them in the engine, you have to remove the bus bar at the top otherwise you test them all and not just the individual plugs.
Are you aware of the procedure to use the hand primer pump and the bleeder screws to get air out of the fuel system? Once the fuel system is purged that far, it will usually start after a bit of cranking. If not, you sometimes have to crack the hard line nuts at the injectors and crank some more to get the air out of the hard lines.
I did follow the hand primer and bleeding procedure. That wasnt the cause. I even cracked the hard nuts at the injectors to confirm a dribble of fuel at each injector. With the glow plugs i used the amp meter on the dash to isolate the faulty plugs. Cant remember exactly how but i disconnected each one in turn to see if the drawdown on the tractor meter is affected. With all 3 working they should draw towards 30 amps.
piper184
Gold Member
Good work on the glow plugs, you did it right.
As for the hard starting after getting air in the system. You did all the right things. I think sometimes things can just be cantankerous.
Sometimes cursing like a drunken sailor seems to help. Other times it just annoys those around you with no help at all to the issue at hand.
You can "flood" a diesel just like any other engine. If you suspect that, just hold the fuel cut off out and continue cranking until you don't see any smoke. Then start the procedure over. Cranking with the fuel in cutoff does help to pre-heat the combustion chamber. You basically have a 3 cylinder air compressor at that point. The heat of compression warms the head and aids in starting.It also get the oil circulating before startup, which is a good thing too.
Each engine has it's quirks and with experience you will get to know what it needs for every starting situation. I run my Jinma 284 from -30 F to 100+ F. Sometimes it is more difficult to start but once I learned how to heat it and how to set the fuel and selectively crank it, it has never failed to start. Well, there was one time at -30 when the starter would spin but not engage. Some heat on the starter fixed that and eventually it did start that day.
As for the hard starting after getting air in the system. You did all the right things. I think sometimes things can just be cantankerous.
Sometimes cursing like a drunken sailor seems to help. Other times it just annoys those around you with no help at all to the issue at hand.
You can "flood" a diesel just like any other engine. If you suspect that, just hold the fuel cut off out and continue cranking until you don't see any smoke. Then start the procedure over. Cranking with the fuel in cutoff does help to pre-heat the combustion chamber. You basically have a 3 cylinder air compressor at that point. The heat of compression warms the head and aids in starting.It also get the oil circulating before startup, which is a good thing too.
Each engine has it's quirks and with experience you will get to know what it needs for every starting situation. I run my Jinma 284 from -30 F to 100+ F. Sometimes it is more difficult to start but once I learned how to heat it and how to set the fuel and selectively crank it, it has never failed to start. Well, there was one time at -30 when the starter would spin but not engage. Some heat on the starter fixed that and eventually it did start that day.
Very interesting info regarding your use of the fuel cutout. If you can start yours at that temp i shouldnt have an issue. That is really cold. Im not likely to have to start it below 32.
My dog slinks away when im working on machines because im always cursing if things go wrong.
My dog slinks away when im working on machines because im always cursing if things go wrong.
piper184
Gold Member
TTTTTT
Gold Member
White smoke=generally unburnt fuel. I'm thinking a bad 1 or more injectors. If they are dribbling. This would also give the hard starting symptoms. Easy and cheap to do.
Dave
Dave
piper184
Gold Member
Where do you set the throttle when you start it?
Generally, I just nudge the hand throttle until the peddle moves about a quarter inch. A little more or less depending on air temp and if it is the first start of the day.
Generally, I just nudge the hand throttle until the peddle moves about a quarter inch. A little more or less depending on air temp and if it is the first start of the day.
I havent settled on exact throttle starting position yet because i still can not get it to start consistently on the first start of the day and we are not talking cold weather either. Some days it goes first kick. Other days it doesnt and i have to walk away and try again later and this sometimes does the trick. I have replaced the battery and 2 glow plugs that were not working. Ive replaced the fuel line. Ill try the throttle position you suggested however surely it wouldnt be that sensitive given it has glow plugs. If there is a problem to my mind it has to be either not enough crank or maybe a compression leak but why does it start sometimes? Could it be a compression leak? There are no symptons of water in the oil or oil in water. Well nothing very obvious anyway. There is no moisture coming from the exhaust. No bubbles in the coolant. I have just put in a new water pump as the previous one was leaking. Ive checked thermostat opens at the right temp. The tractor does not run hot. It stays at 60deg on the meter and i after a bit of work in the morning i can comfortably touch the radiator and engine. Battery is new and i am careful to charge it after use if i think ive tried to many cranks. Where do i go from here. I havent torqued the head bolts. The toolbox that came with the tractor has a spare head gasket so suspect the one in the tractor hasnt been replaced but who knows. Engine runs perfectly once started. I have read a lot about retorquing the head bolts. Could that help?