Since the loader & the rake would cost 3500 or more to buy new , even more if you had to have the loader installed , I,d say You got a perty good deal . Sounds like Rich has the right idea on whats wrong as well . good luck . :thumbsup:
Jinma 254 for $3500 with FEL?
- Thread starter tigers2007
- Start date
Since the loader & the rake would cost 3500 or more to buy new , even more if you had to have the loader installed , I,d say You got a perty good deal . Sounds like Rich has the right idea on whats wrong as well . good luck . :thumbsup:
OP
tigers2007
Silver Member
I got good news. I did exactly what you recommended - took a good look at the release yoke shaft where it externally connects to the lever (that is subsequently hooked to the pedal linkage...). The pin there was busted!
After 10 minutes of punching the pin out and a 20 minute trip to Home Depot, I installed a 5/16" grade 8 bolt and a nylon lock nut. It fit perfectly - with the threaded part right where it comes out (leaving the solid, non-threaded part within). I did this before I even drove it off of the trailer I picked it up with.
The brakes are almost worthless but kinda work. I noticed that it didn't have much power when I moved the tiny shifter in the center (in front of the main shifter) to "H" from "L". I'm assuming thats the creeper? It drives fine in the "L" mode but doesn't really want to move in the "H" mode unless its on a perfectly flat surface. Regardless, it was time to go to work
and abandon my new found asian.
I did learn the hard way about playing with the hydraulic FEL control when the engine was off. About 10lbs of floor-dry fixed that up. Thanks all for your assistance. I think sometime this week I'm going to pull off the FEL and take a look at the clutch through the side panels. I'll probably make note of anything thats leaking too and get a nice maintenance parts order together.
After 10 minutes of punching the pin out and a 20 minute trip to Home Depot, I installed a 5/16" grade 8 bolt and a nylon lock nut. It fit perfectly - with the threaded part right where it comes out (leaving the solid, non-threaded part within). I did this before I even drove it off of the trailer I picked it up with.
The brakes are almost worthless but kinda work. I noticed that it didn't have much power when I moved the tiny shifter in the center (in front of the main shifter) to "H" from "L". I'm assuming thats the creeper? It drives fine in the "L" mode but doesn't really want to move in the "H" mode unless its on a perfectly flat surface. Regardless, it was time to go to work
and abandon my new found asian.I did learn the hard way about playing with the hydraulic FEL control when the engine was off. About 10lbs of floor-dry fixed that up. Thanks all for your assistance. I think sometime this week I'm going to pull off the FEL and take a look at the clutch through the side panels. I'll probably make note of anything thats leaking too and get a nice maintenance parts order together.
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
The brakes on a tractor are for parking, not stopping. That being said they can be adjusted. Mine will lock up the rears with ease.
Sounds like the clutch is out of adjustment or just burnt up. It should have plenty of power in H. I run my tractor there 99% of the time and only use the creeper when pulling stumps, ect.
Chris
Sounds like the clutch is out of adjustment or just burnt up. It should have plenty of power in H. I run my tractor there 99% of the time and only use the creeper when pulling stumps, ect.
Chris
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
The tractor should pull just fine in either high or low range. It sounds like the clutch might be slipping. It could either be worn out or just out of adjustment. The previous owner might have tried to adjust it after the roll pin sheared and now it is not fully engaged. You should have about a half inch or so of free play in the pedal before you feel the resistance of the clutch springs. If not, you'll need to adjust that with the linkage. However, you really should pull the one loader tower so you can open up the clutch access and check it out thoroughly. You'll need to get in there to properly adjust the clutch anyway, most likely.
If the clutch does need replacing, you can do it in a weekend with no problems. I've done mine and I believe I could do it again in one day now that I know what to do.
Again, I'd start with the cheapest thing first, the clutch freeplay adjustment. Who knows, you might get lucky again? I hope so!
As for the brakes, they often get sticky and/or not too effective after the tractor has been sitting for a long time unused. Use them a bit and they may very well begin to work fine.
Rich
If the clutch does need replacing, you can do it in a weekend with no problems. I've done mine and I believe I could do it again in one day now that I know what to do.
Again, I'd start with the cheapest thing first, the clutch freeplay adjustment. Who knows, you might get lucky again? I hope so!
As for the brakes, they often get sticky and/or not too effective after the tractor has been sitting for a long time unused. Use them a bit and they may very well begin to work fine.
Rich
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
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I would suggest using a double roll pin, a spring pin, or a grade 5 bolt, all of which will give you some shear protection. Now the next thing that will break off will be the end of the shaft at the hole or the pins through the yoke on the inside.
You want your weakest link to be accessible. :thumbsup:
Last edited:
greg_g
Super Member
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- Dec 18, 2003
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- 6,086
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- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I agree, lose the bolt.
Your have a dual range (High range-speed/Low range-power) three speed transmission, which gives you a total of six forward and two reverse gears. The H/L lever is the High/Low range selector for the transmission. The gear shift lever - obviously - selects the gear you want to work/travel in. So you have - in order of road speed (or in reverse order of power to the ground) - H3/H2/H1/HR then L3/L2/L1/R1. On some transmissions L3 and H1 might be out of sequence, not sure about yours. The creeper - if you actually have one - is yet another lever. If yes, it's forward of both the H/L and gear shift levers, and might have a graphic of a turtle on it. The meaning of the turtle should be obvious.
Brakes suck right outa the box. As stated, they're primarily for skid steering (bar up) and parking (bar down). Don't rely on them at all to panic stop-the tractor. Using the clutch and gearing down is much more effective.
//greg//
Your have a dual range (High range-speed/Low range-power) three speed transmission, which gives you a total of six forward and two reverse gears. The H/L lever is the High/Low range selector for the transmission. The gear shift lever - obviously - selects the gear you want to work/travel in. So you have - in order of road speed (or in reverse order of power to the ground) - H3/H2/H1/HR then L3/L2/L1/R1. On some transmissions L3 and H1 might be out of sequence, not sure about yours. The creeper - if you actually have one - is yet another lever. If yes, it's forward of both the H/L and gear shift levers, and might have a graphic of a turtle on it. The meaning of the turtle should be obvious.
Brakes suck right outa the box. As stated, they're primarily for skid steering (bar up) and parking (bar down). Don't rely on them at all to panic stop-the tractor. Using the clutch and gearing down is much more effective.
//greg//