Oil & Fuel Just bought a Belarus 250AS

[rtimgray]

On my Belarus 420 I just pushed the accelerator lever (located under the steering wheel) all the way just and that cut the fuel. I have heard that using the decompression lever to kill the engine was bad, but I don't know why. I also have no idea about how to shut off a 250 (I've never had one).

Good luck and take care.

 

[Bowtx]

I became the owner of a 250as when we bought our property in 2008. I was lucky and the previous owner had a manual with it. The manual says to let engine run @ slow speed to cool engine down and then open decompression lever to stop engine. Be sure to turn ground lock-out switch to open position to turn off electrical to tractor also.
Hope this helps.
Bowtx

 

[tractorgreenie]

FYI, there is a new starter on the market that will really crank this tractor..If you should find out you need one..The electrics are not the best on it either. But they are strong..Run fuel injector cleaner in the fuel when you get it going.Hope there is not rust in them?i

What's the info on the starter. I can't get mine to fire up every time. I've drained the battery down a couple of times trying...

 

[Brad_Blazer]

On mine the decompression is a rod with a knob on it coming out of the front of the floorboard and it is pulled to release compression. With the compression release pulled I let it spin up and it always starts when I give the compression back.

If you let it spin a while you should see white fuel vapor coming out of the exhaust. Mine shuts off by pulling the fender mounted throttle all the way back. Of course it needs some throttle to start. I keep meaning to make an idle stop for the throttle that will flip out of the way to shut it off. Having the shutoff as part of the throttle travel is less than ideal.

When the 2x 6v batteries died I put in a marine battery from AutoZone Duralast/12 Volts, 800 CCA marine battery (27DP-DL) | Marine Battery | AutoZone.com.

 

[alchemy]

On mine the decompression is a rod with a knob on it coming out of the front of the floorboard and it is pulled to release compression. With the compression release pulled I let it spin up and it always starts when I give the compression back.

If you let it spin a while you should see white fuel vapor coming out of the exhaust. Mine shuts off by pulling the fender mounted throttle all the way back. Of course it needs some throttle to start. I keep meaning to make an idle stop for the throttle that will flip out of the way to shut it off. Having the shutoff as part of the throttle travel is less than ideal.

When the 2x 6v batteries died I put in a marine battery from AutoZone Duralast/12 Volts, 800 CCA marine battery (27DP-DL) | Marine Battery | AutoZone.com.

If you ever have the starter out notice how easy the engine turns. The original starters must have just been real weak (1979, maybe later). Just got a cheap after market starter made in india that doesn't even have the gear reduction and it cranks fast even with the compreesion shut. You could now start it with just a 300CCA battery or less. I'm using an old 800 CCA duralast 12V from a mercedes now.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I think mine's a 1992 model.

Where did you get the starter? It would be nice to know for future reference.

 

[alchemy]

here's a thread I started about my new starter that did not fit which I modified.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/247142-belarus-starters.html
Starter works far better than the original ever did even though I had to modify.
I think the problem is that there is a CT222 and a CT222A. The number should be stamped on the starter. Not sure, still waiting on feedback. My original was a CT222 and the one I had to cut was made to replace a CT222A .

 

[drs1023]

I bought my 250AS new in 1989, and, honestly, it has NEVER been right on starting. I had the starter rebuilt once, attached an extra ground wire., rewired the switch once...everything I could think of, but for the last 3 years, I have had to start the tractor with a screwdriver across the two large posts on the old starter.

Ebay seller CALTRIC sells the reduction drive starter for the 250AS for $155 with free shipping. Got mine in last week, and the results are astonishing.

As an aside, A few weeks ago, my original equipment alternator locked up, so I replaced it with a Delco 1-wire for under $60 from Auto Zone. The Delco pulley is set back almost exactly one inch, so I removed the original mounting bracket and re-drilled the holes 1 inch forward. Only two holes will catch now, but these studs are very large and the alternator weighs less, so all is good. I also lengthened the top slide rod adjuster by two inches so the alternator has somoe adjustment.

 

[alchemy]

I bought my 250AS new in 1989, and, honestly, it has NEVER been right on starting. I had the starter rebuilt once, attached an extra ground wire., rewired the switch once...everything I could think of, but for the last 3 years, I have had to start the tractor with a screwdriver across the two large posts on the old starter.

Ebay seller CALTRIC sells the reduction drive starter for the 250AS for $155 with free shipping. Got mine in last week, and the results are astonishing.

As an aside, A few weeks ago, my original equipment alternator locked up, so I replaced it with a Delco 1-wire for under $60 from Auto Zone. The Delco pulley is set back almost exactly one inch, so I removed the original mounting bracket and re-drilled the holes 1 inch forward. Only two holes will catch now, but these studs are very large and the alternator weighs less, so all is good. I also lengthened the top slide rod adjuster by two inches so the alternator has somoe adjustment.

I also had to start mine by jumping the solenoid before I got my new starter. I also put a delco alternator on mine. I used a 12SI Delco (45.00 used from a buick) on this tractor but I put the single wire from NAPA (50.00) on my IH, same thing sorta. Yes I alo just moved over the lower mount and redrilled the holes. I also disconnected all other wiring. I may put some back later, lights, gauges etc. Just wanted to make sure nothing shorted. It charges great.
On the SI delco starters they have a 2 blade plug. The alternator guy told me to twist those two wires together and run it to any switch that will assure it's on to the battery when running and off when not. Never saw anyone do it that way but it works so far. The large terminal goes to the battery of course. On the true single wire alternator it just has a rubber plug where the two wire plug would be. It's probably wired to the bat+ terminal through a resistior or something inside.

I had a very strange thing also before I changed the starter. There would be 6V from the + baterry terminal to any ground with the MASS switch off. It was a 12V battery and would read 12.5V with the mass switch on. I could not figure how it did that and the mass switch wasn't touching anywhere. Now with the new starter it reads .4 to .6V to any ground with the mass switch off. I'm guessing and hoping .4 -.6 means 0 . Still, I cant figure out how a starter would make 6V plus and minus from just the 12V + terminal .

 

[drs1023]

I've never heard of tying the two wires off the plug together. This is my first true 1-wire with no spade terminals on the side. I have used them many times on older tractors - my dad's and my son's. With about 3 inches of wire, I jump from the outside male spade to the main output bolt with a ring terminal on this end.

The wiring harness is pretty mych shot on my tractor, so I plan to use a standard fuse box and run new wires to everything. Right now, I use a push button switch to start the tractor.