L3400 CCM hydraulic top link length

[canoetrpr]

Just placed the order with SurplusCenter. Something you should know that when you go to checkout it doubles the price! Glitch in the website. I called them and they said that it will be automatically fixed.

I've emailed CCM - hoping they have stock for the top and side links. Do you know if they do? Haven't heard from them yet.

 

[StrangeRanger]

I don't think "stock" is a word CCM knows. Especially the side links. They are all built to spec. Honestly I've never received an email back from them. I call and talk to them. I think they guy I usually talk to is Mark. Very nice and very helpful gentleman.
I was looking at my links last night. My top link doesn't even screw all the way down so it looks like right now I have like an 18"-28" range.
And my side link, measured to the first hole on the bottom, looks to be 18.5".
I only had like 5 min to look last night, but will look better today. Do those numbers jive w/ what you've got?
Oh, forgot to ask. Since I'm hydraulically challenged as well I need to know, the 2 spools you're not using, do you need plugs or caps or something for them? Like if you hit the lever w/ nothing attached, is fluid gonna fly out? NOOB!!

 

[StrangeRanger]

Btw, is your return line going to go back in via the tank plug or what have you decided to do?

 

[canoetrpr]

My side link measurement comes to the same as yours. I measured the center of one hole to the center of the bottom hole and it came to 18.5". The top of the side link is a eye bolt (like the top link) and the hole measured at .5" diameter for me.

My top link measured 16 to 27.5". Since I have a Pat's I'm thinking this will match best with their 18 to 26.5". Would hate for it to not be short enough for a box blade though so I'm hoping that someone who has gotten a CCM top link on a L3400 will post what length they got and how well it works with their box blade.

You will have quick couplers attached to all four spools. I don't think that the quick coupler will allow fluid to flow out of a spool unless it is coupled to the opposite quick coupler (i.e. on a hose). You probably ought to get plastic caps like the ones on the FEL valve to keep dust out of the quick couplers that are not being used.

I've never done this before either so take all of my thoughts with a grain of salt.

 

[canoetrpr]

StrangeRanger, I talked to Mark at CCM today. He was quite helpful.

I've ordered:

- 18-26.5" hydraulic top link.

- 16.5 or 17" hydraulic side link with a 4" stroke with an eye bracket on the top. The eye bracket takes a 3/4" pin (I thought it was 1/2" and Mark said I should measure it again - he was right!).

My OEM sidelink measures 18.5" so a 16.5" + 4" stroke will allow me to tilt 2" each way.

I decided that I would source hoses up here for the top and side links also since I'm going to be doing that for the rest of the setup. Figure I can just take the valve and cylinders into the hydraulic shop and get their help in figuring out the fittings. I feel pretty good having studied various posts that WayneCountyHose and others have responded to explaining fittings to me.

Hey said that they will put the order in Monday. I don't know what the total will be + shipping yet. I imagine I will hear on Monday.

Can't wait for my stuff to start arriving

 

[StrangeRanger]

Hey Canoe,

I was gonna order my stuff today, but when I called I got an older gentleman on the phone who didn't seem quite so sure of himself. So I said thank you, but I'll call on Monday to order.

I'm gonna go w/ the same toplink, but I'm not sure about the side. Trying to figure out if I'd want more than a 4" stroke. 2" each way just doesn't sound like enough considering what I've done w/ my manual one in the past. Hmm...

And even though I don't know when or what I'd use them for, I can't beat your logic about going for the extra remotes. Gonna order the Prince valves on Monday too. I'm a little concerned about sourcing all the hoses locally, but I'll deal w/ that when I get to it.

Then I've got a bud who's gonna make a bracket for me. Well, he's gonna stupidvise while I cut some steel and weld an "L" bracket to u-bolt to the ROPS. It was a very small fire I caused in his shop last time I was welding

I'm gonna try to take some pics as I move along this project to other hydraulic noobies like me can learn from this. I'm stoked!

 

[canoetrpr]

I'll do the same with pictures StrangeRanger.

Pretty sure that a 4" stroke will be fine for my uses - I've never so much as adjusted my sidelink. In fact I spent a while wondering whether I should just get a top link but finally decided to spring for the whole deal.

I was looking at the space behind the seat, by the ROPS, where I wanted to mount the valve and was wondering if there will be enough room between the ROPS and the rear right flasher... donno. I'll wait till I get the valve and get it assembled before making a final call on mounting. The other alternative I was thinking of is bolting piece of steel right on the fender - jutting out towards the seat and mouting the valve right on that.

I don't have a friend with a welder so I'm going to either find one or find a welding place to do it for me. I found myself ogling the Lincoln mig welders at the local TSC today. Never welded anything before but sure would be nice to be able to do an L shaped bracket at my convenience..... I'll add it to the (very long) wish list. It is far beyond the air compressor which is next thing I will add.

On fittings and hoses I'll bet that you can get most of them ordered online, but, as WayneCountyHose has advised before, its a good idea to let a local hydraulic shop help you out.

Here is an awesome thread on making sense of hydraulic fittings. WCH in his first post pretty much sets us upon the right path.
- Bascially get -6 (3/8) hoses with -6 (3/8) female JIC ends.
- Then we need two SAE o-ring -8 to -6 JIC male by male adapters for IN and PB ports on the valve and then one SAE o-ring -10 to -6 JIC male by male adapters for the PB ports.

You will have to think about the angle of the o-ring by JIC fittings once you get the valve mounted and / or get an idea of where you will be routing hoses from.

While I don't think he said explicitly, I think we will be wanting swivel -6 JIC ends on our hoses.

The above only covers fittings for plumbing the hydraulics to the valve.

The work ports should be straightforward I think. I think we will need eight 90 degree SAE o-ring -8 by JIC -6 male by male adapters - as the work ports are on top of the valve. The quick couplers will go onto the JIC -6 end.

I'm not quite sure whether we should be looking at four 90 degree adapters and four 45 degree adapters instead of eight 90 degree adapters.... again, I think the valve is going to have to be in place and hose routing thought about for these details.

We'll have to wing the other end of the hoses that fit into the loader PB port, hydraulic block PB port and tank output.

 

[canoetrpr]

StrangeRanger - Take a look at MadRef's pictures in this thread to see why I contemplated using 4 45 degree fittigns and 4 90 degree fittings.

Since our work ports are at the top, both hoses from one cylinder need to come to the same valve stack. With all spools used, that could be a very messy setup!

Seems like MadRef has used a union fitting, on the rear work ports. This raises the rear work ports by an inch or two, allowing a nice setup where one hose to a stack (that goes into the rear work port) can go above the other hose to the same stack. I think that I will do the same.

The Kubota kit handles this quite nicely as the work ports are located on the rear. But it is 3x the price.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Well, I've got my valves ordered. Called C&C but have to call back later when Mark gets in. Grrr...

As for hoses and fittings I'm going to simply bring everything to my LHS (Local Hydraulics Shop) and hope they do me right. Honestly, all the fittings/adapters/nonsense makes my head spin. I'll place the valves where I want them and then use some rope to run all the lines and get lengths. And I do like MadRef's union fittings to "stack" the connections.

I know I'm probably gonna pay more for my LHS to do it and do it right, but why short change myself after all the money I've got invested in the tractor? Plus, why skimp a little $$ and end up w/ something that is hobbled together or will fail? I'm just amazed the connections aren't more standardized. Why all the o-ring to JIC to SAE to this and that nonsense? ****, just screw it on! LOL

As you said, I need to assemble the valve and see what kind of space I have to fab a mounting bracket. I don't really want it sticking out on the side so it could be hit by something, but I don't want it too far behind me either. Gonna have to play w/ it.

Oh, have you decided where your return line is going to go? Are you going to order the Kubota port plug and go back in the tank in the back above the 3pth? That's probably what I'll do. The only reason I've seen not to do that is if you have a BH, and that is not going to happen unless I win the lottery.

 

[canoetrpr]

I'm going to return just to the tank with the Kubota plug. Figure the less existing hydraulic hoses I have to take apart the better .

Same here with the BH. Although I think that wushaw has a BH and has the return to the tank. I'd love to get a BH but its just not in the cards.