Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,291  
The leading edge of that scoop blade actually looks like it was traveling in the right direction and was bent back from impacting an object.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,292  
I'm glad we cleared up the confusion, but I can certainly see why there was some.
Here are the facts known at the moment-
(1) The knives in the picture are scoop knives
(2) They are also mounted backwards
(3) The true cutting edge is completely rounded over to actually give an edge in the opposite direction.
(4) The rotor spins opposite of the tractor tire rotation(moving forward)

I have a box of brand new scoops that I will install on Sunday when I get back in town and the paint is completely dry. I hope to take the mower back to the farm then and give it a shot. I haven't bush hogged in some time, awaiting on the day the flail is up and running.

For whatever reason I have issues getting pictures to upload or else I would show some close up picks of how bad the blades are. I wish I could upload from my phone to the forum... Nevermind it worked this time! The way they were mounted there was an edge that I thought would cut, maybe wind resistance had something to do with the no cut issue on top of the backward blades. View attachment 437479

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YES, YES, YES, YES,

Your mower is OK;
tractor wheels running counter clockwise/flail mower rotor rotating
clockwise as you are looking at the left bearing YAAAAAYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Be sure to mount the new scoop knives facing forward

I was so worried you had a grey market mule you were using to run it.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,293  
A few did, mostly real small tractors though. Also, some flails were designed to mount on the front of tractors and used a different PTO speed and perhaps a different direction. One of my friends bought a Mott years ago that did not have the typical three-point mount. He fabricated a mount and was pretty proud of his bargain find, only to find that the mower spun the opposite rotation than expected and not at the right speed. He sold it cheap to another handy guy and bought a Vrisimo.

On knives, we sell almost 100% scoop knives in our area. Typical usage is mowing orchard grass and small twigs. For after pruning mowing, the guys are normally using heavy shredder mowers with hammers.

I mow my field and orchard with scoop knives and it gives a nice cut.

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Most of the flails offered in Europe have dual mounting systems to mount on the
front and rear of most of their mules especially the ones with dual three point hitches
and rotating operator stations like the ferrari and lombarini mules and others.

The caroni mowers can be set up like that but the hard ware has to be removed then
reinstalled on the opposing side.

This not an issue for them as they have side slicers as standard equipment on their flail mowers.
Berti and many more builders have the dual frames where all that is needed is to remove the PTO shaft and reconnect the mower to the opposing three point hitch if the mule has twin power take offs and three point hitches
AND the flail mower rotors rotation will not be an issue with the dual cutting edge slide slicers.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,294  
Why do you use the rotary mower instead of the flail? Does the rotary give a better cut?
No, the flail has the best cut, but don't need that here where we live now. I have a 6' Recycler deck that trims up close on either side that I use on the yard.

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,295  
Xfaxman, doesn't the pallet have a negative impact on the cut quality of your flail??

You being the "picture guy", can't believe you posted pics of your flail with a pallet wedged in it. :confused3:
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,296  
Xfaxman, doesn't the pallet have a negative impact on the cut quality of your flail?? You being the "picture guy", can't believe you posted pics of your flail with a pallet wedged in it. :confused3:
He was using the flail to mow the lichen off the pallet as a demonstration of what a fine mower it is.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,297  
He was using the flail to mow the lichen off the pallet as a demonstration of what a fine mower it is.

Holy Camoly!!! I was going to guess that!
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,298  
Xfaxman, doesn't the pallet have a negative impact on the cut quality of your flail??
Yep, it does, but the pallet knocks down the high spots and fills in the low spots. :thumbsup:
You being the "picture guy", can't believe you posted pics of your flail with a pallet wedged in it. :confused3:

It was on the pallet or nothing. :D

He was using the flail to mow the lichen off the pallet as a demonstration of what a fine mower it is.

Holy Camoly!!! I was going to guess that!
Thanks, now I know what I was doing. :laughing:
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,299  
Question for all experienced paint guru's..... I put 2 coats of john deere paint on my flail the other day and I ran out before I could finish with a final coat. The paint specs say to wait at least 36 hours before adding another coat if you miss the "tacky" window. It has now been 36 hours and I was going to apply 2 more coats this afternoon before I go out of town so it would be ready to cut on Sunday afternoon when I get back. The question is do I need to sand or scuff before applying more coats, I would think the answer is yes, but I am no paint expert? And on that note can anyone explain what sort of chemistry is happening between the tacky window and 36 hours so that further coats would not adhere so that I can better understand paint chemistry a little? I'm assuming that after 36 hours the paint is cured and would need to be scuffed to apply more coats, I just wish the instructions said that. I'm not trying to make a show paint job by any stretch of the imagination, but more for rust protection and I wanted to try the John Deere paint to see how it held up as I'm going to paint my 4230 this fall/winter.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #2,300  
Well, it doesn't look like I'm going to paint today after all. I tested the paint with my fingernail and it dented and scratched off so I'm assuming it's not cured or I have other issues.... I didn't use hardener with the jd green and I used rattle can rusty metal primer. Should I be concerned? Can I spray hardener on my next coats in a few days?
 
 
 
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