Lincoln Ac/Dc 225 breaker size

[k0ua]

just checked the rods I got with the welder 1/8 6011 unopened 50lb box with a open can of misc rods. So I will be using 1/8 rods.

I will try to find some reason to test it here to see how it runs on 20 and 30 amp service.

If had done my homework a little better maybe I would have gotten the inverter but for 175.00 and like new I think with 60lb rods, and long leads. I did alright. I weld maybe once or twice a year. I also have a hobart handler mig which I never seem to use.

You did alright, the inverter's of course are a somewhat more efficient, and of course way more portable. but your investment is low, and you will be able to do a lot of work with "big red"

 

[Shield Arc]

This is the first welder I ever bought. When I lived in town I tried running it off the dryer out let. Seems as I remember only being able to run 3/32-inch 7018, and no way could I stuff one rod after another!

 

[BukitCase]

"The poster above using a 70A breaker on # 6 wire has great potential to set the wire/cord on fire before the breaker trips when operating long term at max output. #6 is only rated for 50A. 70A requires #4 or #2 which is not readily available in a SO cord arrangement."

Ron, I should have clarified this more, sorry - I'm aware of the numbers - in this case, it's an old Zinsco box and I couldn't find a 50 amp breaker for it, I already had the SO cord, that circuit NEVER will see more than 50 amps INRUSH when the 5 horse Baldor starts the compressor, the duty cycle of the ONLY welder that might draw more than 30 amps ALREADY excludes enough wire heating to NOT be a problem (the rest are all inverter technology) -

The maximum SUSTAINED load on the circuit with compressor running (23 amps) and any of the welders running, would be around 55 amps. Even that would only happen for a couple minutes, since this compressor comes up to pressure from cut-in to cut-out in about 90 seconds.

When I get the time, the old Zinsco breaker box will be replaced - at that time, the SO cord, 70 amp breaker, and any other "temp" stuff will also go "bye-bye".

To any who may want to duplicate what I did,
DON'T !!?!

- I am the ONLY one in this household who will EVER use this setup, I know the REAL capabilities, and I will be replacing any and all "iffy" components when I remodel and re-wire.

Ron (Tractor SeaBee) has given you the RIGHT way - please follow his numbers if you wire your own... Steve

 

[mikefromnh]

Ok, so I'm not an electrician, but I can read an owners manual; which I've been doing since I want get a stick welder and learn to weld.
From the lincoln ac/dc 225 owners manual:

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
ç–‹o not touch electrically hot parts.
WARNING
�ave an electrician install and service this equipment.
謬urn the input power off at the fuse box before work- ing on equipment.
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Input Power and Grounding Connections
Before starting the installation, check with the power compa- ny to be sure your power supply is adequate for the voltage, amperes, phase and frequency specified on the welder nameplate. Also, be sure the planned installation will meet the United States National Electrical Code and local code requirements. This welder may be operated from a single phase line or from one phase of a two or three phase line.
All models designed to operate on less than 250 volt input lines are shipped with the input cable connected to the welder.
WARNING
These installation instructions apply to the input wiring and overload protection installed to supply one AC-225- S or one AC/DC 225/125 and comply with the United States National Electrical Code as it applies to electric welders. Other equipment should not be connected to this supply without consulting the input power require- ments for that equipment, the United States National Electrical Code, and all local codes.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Place the welder so there is free circulation of air in through the louvers in the back and sides of the case and out of the bottom on all four sides. Mount a NEMA Type 6-50R recep- tacle in a suitable location. Be sure it can be reached by the plug on the input cable attached to the welder.
Using the following instructions, have a qualified electrician connect this receptacle (NEMA 6-50R Type) to the power lines at the fuse box. Three #10 or larger copper wires are required if conduit is used. For long cable runs over 100'(31m), #8 or larger wire in conduit will be needed to pre- vent excessive voltage drops. Fuse the two hot lines with 50 ampere super lag type fuses as shown in the following dia- gram. The center contact in the receptacle is for the ground- ing connection. A green wire in the input cable connects this contact to the frame of the welder. This insures proper grounding of the welder frame when the welder plug is insert- ed into the receptacle. If a separate disconnect switch is used, it should have two poles for the two hot lines and both should be fused for 50 amperes.

 

[mikefromnh]

And from the thunderbolt owners manual

 

[mikefromnh]

In both instances they call for 10 gauge wire --- for up to 87 or 100' then 8 gauge. I know many people think you need to run 6 gauge for a 50amp breaker. But what I've seen/read is that if you run a dedicated branch circuit you can use smaller wire for a given breaker size IF you follow NEC 630.11

And all the owners manuals that I've looked at spec a wire size that matches my calcs when using 630.11

In the case of the Lincoln 50 amps X .45 (based on 20% duty cycle from 630.11) = 22 amps which means you can use 10 gauge wire. And some of the older manuals go so far as to spec 12 gauge wire with a 50 amp breaker since the ampacity of 12/2 nm is 25 amps.

 

[BukitCase]

Yeah, as long as it is a DEDICATED welder circuit, 630.11 can be applied. That's another reason I'm not worried about the way I did it - as I explained earlier, no combination of loads on that circuit will exceed the ampacity of #6 wire especially when you factor in duty cycle.

For your welder ONLY circuit you should be fine with the numbers you posted - although if it's not too much more $, I'd wire it to NON-welder code just in case you want to run something else with it down the road... Steve

 

[LD1]

For $175 and an AC/DC machine AND 60 lbs of rod AND long leads.....yea you did good.

I've been looking c-list for awhile. Would like to get an AC/DC machine. But mostly only see AC units for $100-$150.

IF ya want to make $50 I'd be happy to come down there and take if off your hands and then you can get that inverter welder.:thumbsup:

 

[bucktaker]

Thanks LD1 but I think i will keep it! might even try it out this weekend worst it will do is pop the 20 amp breaker I stupidly installed.

 

[bucktaker]

Well the 20 amp breaker did pop if I did any length of time welding on my old dearborn disc, 1/8 6011 rod dc+ I looked at the input cable and it has a 12/3 power cord with a 20 amp plug on it ?????

So I can make my dedicated welder circuit anything I want as my cable from panel to wall is 2 ft and 2/0. So to be safe what should my outlet and breaker be rated for? I m thinking 30 amp so as to not overload the power cord too bad. If I went with a 50 amp breaker I could overload /overheat the line cord before the breaker would open.


For my temp use I think the 30 amp dryer outlet will be ok as I can just go real slow with lots of breaks and not pop the breaker