Look what I got for $1700

[Bob Rooks]

He gave me a tool box with a new gasket..I wonder if he knew.

They come from the factory with that.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Check the hydraulic fluid because Bob said to.

:laughing::laughing::laughing: My thought was that if the seal blew on the hydraulic pump that's where the hydraulic oil usually goes - into the engine.

Also, check Greg's post on servicing the breather. I agree.

 

[theghoul]

I checked the fluids, oil is low (of course) , Coolant is fine, Hydraulic is low? I filled it with 3 gals yesterday and thought I over filled it since it twice over the dip stick. I removed about gallon and the level was ok. I'm wondering if the hyrdaulic fluid settled overnight or it could be the pump seal.

This did start to happen after I connected a finish mower.

I removed the brillo pad from the oil overflow. It didn't look too bad (pictures below). I put it in some diesel and the dirt is coming off.

Mosquitos started biting so I called it a night.

The tractor didn't smoke, lose power or anything, I just saw the pressure drop when I was mowing and pulled it over to check it out.

The chinglish manuals are confusing, I didn't see how to service the pump in there. How big a job is it if that's the case?

Fun times, but I'm not giving up. This things gonna get fixed.

BTW: The regulator I got from Affordable fixed the charging issue. I zip tied it on there to keep it from falling off. Thanks for that. One problem down, more to go

 

[Bob Rooks]

How is the engine oil level?

 

[theghoul]

How is the engine oil level?

At the tip of the stick.

 

[greg_g]

I removed the brillo pad from the oil overflow.

pull that screen out from the bottom of the breather, I see raw oil down there that should be cleaned out too. You might have to remove the breather assembly from the side of the block to get it clean throughout. It's easy to get off, but there's a good chance you'll have to cut a replacement gasket before putting it back on.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

At the tip of the stick.

Then that rules out the hydraulic pump. :thumbsup:

 

[Rich Waugh]

The hydraulic fluid level could have changed due to running the TPH up and down. If you filled it with the TPH up, then dropped the arms, that will push some fluid back into the sump. I wouldn't think it would make a whole gallon difference, though.

After you get the breather assemble completely cleaned and re-installed, top up your engine oil to the dipstick mark, check your hydraulic fluid with the TPH and loader down completely and set the fluid level to the mark on the dipstick. Check our radiator level, too. While you're at it, check the oil level in the injector pump and be sure it is clean - if not, drain, flush and refill with engine oil as per the manual. Then clean the outside of the tractor pretty well so you will be able to see any fluid leaks quickly and easily. After that, you are ready to start the tractor and see what your oil pressure is and if there are any leaks or errant flows.

At idle, these tractors barely get the pressure gauge needle off the stop. At operating RPM (say 2000) with a cold engine, you should have about 35-45 psig oil pressure or the metric equivalent. If not, shut it down and find out why. If the pressure is okay, run it for five minutes and then shut it down and check all the fluid levels again and check for any cross-contamination of fluids. If all is okay, then run it until the engine is at operating temperature, about 190ｰF/90ｰC and see what the oil pressure is the - it should be above 15-20 psi. If not, you have a problem somewhere that needs addressing.

 

[theghoul]

The hydraulic fluid level could have changed due to running the TPH up and down. If you filled it with the TPH up, then dropped the arms, that will push some fluid back into the sump. I wouldn't think it would make a whole gallon difference, though.

After you get the breather assemble completely cleaned and re-installed, top up your engine oil to the dipstick mark, check your hydraulic fluid with the TPH and loader down completely and set the fluid level to the mark on the dipstick. Check our radiator level, too. While you're at it, check the oil level in the injector pump and be sure it is clean - if not, drain, flush and refill with engine oil as per the manual. Then clean the outside of the tractor pretty well so you will be able to see any fluid leaks quickly and easily. After that, you are ready to start the tractor and see what your oil pressure is and if there are any leaks or errant flows.

At idle, these tractors barely get the pressure gauge needle off the stop. At operating RPM (say 2000) with a cold engine, you should have about 35-45 psig oil pressure or the metric equivalent. If not, shut it down and find out why. If the pressure is okay, run it for five minutes and then shut it down and check all the fluid levels again and check for any cross-contamination of fluids. If all is okay, then run it until the engine is at operating temperature, about 190ｰF/90ｰC and see what the oil pressure is the - it should be above 15-20 psi. If not, you have a problem somewhere that needs addressing.

Thanks.. gonna do that this morning.

 

[greg_g]

One other thing; don't drop the loader or the TPH unless the engine is running. When the engine runs, the pump runs. Consider your loader and steering cylinders for example, and note that they typically have one hose at either end. With the engine running, fluid flows in both hoses; out one, in the other. But with tne engine off, fluid only flows one way; back to the sump. That's what artificially raises the level of the sump, because the pump isn't running to replace the cylinder fluid that gravity pushed out.

My Chinese tractors had only one line on the hydraulic dipstick. I considered that the FULL mark. And I didn't screw the plug back into the hole to check levels either. With Asian threaded dipsticks, you unscrew, wipe, set in hole, check level, screw back in hole when done. I never added fluid unless/until the dipstick came out DRY.

//greg//