Majik Paint from TSC

[Hinomotoman]

I always go ahead and thin the whole gallon with a pint of thinner. I use a cheap plastic bucket with a spout from the Dollar Tree. Mix the unthinned paint thoroughly. Pour into bucket. Put the thinner in the can and put the lid on. Shake several minutes. This cleans the can so you know you have all the solids. Pour out the can into the bucket and stir. Refill the can to the top and put the lid on. You now have a pint of paint you can pour into the gun already thinned. I add the hardener after it's in the gun.

Eugene

 

[paulharvey]

Well, I know it's been a while, but I've got 2 coats of primer and 3 color on everything. I'm not positive but I think I did more work than I should have after doing more reading. I sanded each coat with 600 grit between coats, and I'm working on the final color with 1000 grit and 1200 grit. Now, I've pretty much come to the point that I've tried some buffing compound and I'm still not getting the bright look I want so I'm considering rattle can clear....

On more reading, people really just shoot 3 layers of clear over orange peel? Will 1000/1200 grit scuffs go away when I clear it? I'm thinking I'll try the tailgate first, but I'm a little concerned that I'll be making things worse.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Wet sand with 1600.. then compound.

 

[LD1]

Whenever I want a mirror finish, I have always worked up to wet sanding with 2000grit and then use polishing compound. Most rubbing compounds I have used dont leave a high gloss finish. It takes the polishing compoind.

But I am no expert painter and just buy the rubbing and polishing compound from autozone or the like. Pro grade stuff may differ.

Did you have any issues with coverage or runs?

 

[paulharvey]

Coverage was fine. I did have trouble with runs, especially on the tailgate. It's unbelievably frustrating, because you have to wait several days before the run cures enough to sand it away. I don't know if it was me, the gun, the compressor, or paint.

Basicallly, I think pretty much every time I sprayed something went wrong. If I had it to do over, I probably would just have scuffed and rattle canned the 3 doors...

 

[paulharvey]

Well for better or worse I'm done with the truck. If I had it to do again, I would have probably taken the gold doors off and sprayed them black rather then do the entire truck. I'm not sure I added that much value by painting, and it took forever. I have a guy coming to look at it this afternoon, and I guess I'll know more then. Some problems I ran into where: the amount of time it took; doing everything out side; learning to mix paint/thinner/hardener to get a consistent viscosity; I should have really attacked it with tape and kraft paper, I though I had it taped well, but dam if over spray didn't find its way onto the glass and the vinyl/rubber around windows. Another thing is that no matter how much work and time I put in, it always was clear it was a DIY paint job.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Not bad for a cheaper paint and out doors.. Without lots of practice and a booth its always gonna be hard.

 

[john_bud]

Coverage was fine. I did have trouble with runs, especially on the tailgate. It's unbelievably frustrating, because you have to wait several days before the run cures enough to sand it away. I don't know if it was me, the gun, the compressor, or paint.

Basicallly, I think pretty much every time I sprayed something went wrong. If I had it to do over, I probably would just have scuffed and rattle canned the 3 doors...

I'm pretty sure there is some magic dust pros add to the paint to keep runs from happening... and I don't have that stuff! I feel for you on the runs. Real PITA. It goes from too dry and orange peel to runs. I try to run a heavy coat on a test panel to see if the paint gods are angry or happy. If it runs, I reduce with fast reducer. Also, running a THIN coat first to give the paint something to stick to helps. At least that's what I'm told. I can still spray and get runs.