MF 20 Industrial - Items to Replace when Splitting?

[ScipioUSA]

Not sure if anyone saw my other post in the Parts/Repairs section, but its looking like I need to split my MF 20 Industrial. I have never split this tractor before, and its sure gonna be a real peach trying to do it with the loader on there still.

Anyway, my machine has the 3 cylinder Perkins gas, and I am mostly wondering what anyone could suggest that I replace while I have it apart. I think my input shaft seals are leaking, so that means I have to split it twice, once for engine/transmission, and then transmission/rear end. It has the six speed shuttle transmission, so to pull the input shaft, I have to pull the front PTO shaft out the back of the transmission. Such fun.

Any thoughts on bits and pieces or things that I should make sure to investigate and replace "while I am in there"? I am not 100% that I am going to do this work myself yet, and know some of this will have to wait until I can put eyes on it.

Would appreciate any thoughts in the meantime on what would be good to have on hand or price out ahead of time.

Thanks!

 

[azbinder]

Rear engine seal. Freeze plugs in rear of engine if any. Pilot and T/O brg, clutch disk and possibly pressure plate. Just what came to mind.

 

[ScipioUSA]

Rear engine seal. Freeze plugs in rear of engine if any. Pilot and T/O brg, clutch disk and possibly pressure plate. Just what came to mind.

Thanks for the quick response!

I was planning on a full clutch kit at this point, so both discs, TO bearing and Pilot, not sure about pressure plate yet. I think someone has replaced the clutch once before, so it may not be too bad off, will need to see.

I had thought about the rear main, and potentially the oil pan seal (I guess sometimes the rear main stays dry, but the pan seal is what causes a problem?) From some videos and reading, the rope seals apparently can be really a big pain, and I havent ever done one. If its dry when I see it, I would probably leave it, but will have to decide what sort of a pain level I want to endure.

I had not thought about freeze plugs.

My three point likes to sink down pretty fast with a load on it when I push in the clutch, so maybe I should investigate that some too. Not sure if the pump can come out the top of my tractor or if it needs to come out the front....

 

[TractorTech]

Prepare to surface the flywheel and inspect the starter ring gear for possible replacement

 

[redman135]

When putting tractor back togather, engage pto and rotate with a spanner to help line up the clutch splines. Note this works with a dry clutch, 8 sp, but I don't know about a shuttle.

 

[ScipioUSA]

Prepare to surface the flywheel and inspect the starter ring gear for possible replacement

Any tips on surfacing at home? Can I just hit it with an angle grinder or palm sander? Or will that depend on the condition when I open it up?

When putting tractor back together, engage pto and rotate with a spanner to help line up the clutch splines. Note this works with a dry clutch, 8 sp, but I don't know about a shuttle.

My machine seems to be set up the same as the 8 speed, but with no reverse in the H pattern. So it's still all gears, and I should be able to use the PTO to assist with getting it together.

Right now I'm looking into options for splitting stands and jacks. I'm going to need a couple jack stands for the loader frame, and thinking I could make a few stands from some c-channel, but need to see where it would mount.

 

[TractorTech]

If the flywheel is lightly worn, then light sanding would work. If there are grooves or bluing, a machine shop is necessary.
Do not try with an angle grinder as the plane of the surface must be maintained for maximum clutch engagement.

 

[TractorTech]

As far as splitting, raise the loader up, put an angle iron (1/4"×2"×2") brace on the lift cylinders to brace. Use jacksrtands or blocks under the loader frame to brace. Cut a piece of 2x4 into 2 wedges. Hammer the wedges between the top of the front axle and bolster to keep the engine from flopping over when detached from the transmission. A bottle jack under the bell housing and a good floor jack under the engine makes splitting easy.

When going back together, 2 guide studs about 3-4" long made from cutting the heads off of bolts threaded into the bell housing will aid in aligning the halves back together. A large screwdriver turning the flywheel by putting it into the ring gear allows you to push and turn the engine over to engage the input shaft into the clutch.

 

[ScipioUSA]

As far as splitting, raise the loader up, put an angle iron (1/4"×2"×2") brace on the lift cylinders to brace. Use jacksrtands or blocks under the loader frame to brace. Cut a piece of 2x4 into 2 wedges. Hammer the wedges between the top of the front axle and bolster to keep the engine from flopping over when detached from the transmission. A bottle jack under the bell housing and a good floor jack under the engine makes splitting easy.

When going back together, 2 guide studs about 3-4" long made from cutting the heads off of bolts threaded into the bell housing will aid in aligning the halves back together. A large screwdriver turning the flywheel by putting it into the ring gear allows you to push and turn the engine over to engage the input shaft into the clutch.

I don't have overhead space in my garage for me to be able to lift the loader arms like that. So I'll have to keep the engine in place and roll the back end. Or I can try this in my barn where I have the head height, but no power and a crusher run floor....

 

[Sportsman762]

What transmission do you have? There was a 8x2 (4 speed with 2 ranges) or a 6 speed manual reverse (3 speed with 2 ranges and a third lever for reverse).
Also have you investigated the parts manual?

https://parts.agcocorp.com/us/en/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson%2F651281%2Fl&c=00-00&name=MF%2020%20TRACTOR#

Remember there are 3+ Massey 20's. The Massey Harris 20, The Massey Ferguson 20 turf, and the Massey Ferguson 20 Industrial. The 20 Turf shares some parts with the Industrial but there are still a ton of differences. (I could kill massey for doing an industrial and turf version of their tractors from the 20 to the 20d and not letting folks know the difference.) The industrial will have a straight solid front axle and the turf will have a swept adjustable axle.

Once we definitively determine what you have we can offer better suggestions.

Turf is below

Industrial below.