mechanical with capillary line...I remember reading someones thread on where he bought a new gauge and hose to test, but I wasn't sure if that was accurate or not. Also, there is some dodad thing attached to the line, see pic. Does this have anything to do with anything? :laughing:
MF-205 Industrial Oil Pressure Drops When Warm/Hot
- Thread starter jfharper
- Start date
Soundguy
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looks like it's 't'd with a sender. could be for an idiot lamp.. electric gauge.. something for alternator.. etc..
i'm not up on those machines.
won't be the first time I saw a sender t'd in though.
soundguy
i'm not up on those machines.
won't be the first time I saw a sender t'd in though.
soundguy
I went to the salvage yard today and they had a couple rigs like mine. It looks like it is an oil pressure switch that runs a wire from the amp meter to the fuel gauge. The amp meter runs from the regulator. I think that is pretty close to what it is.
MikesTractor
Silver Member
On MF tractors that were equiped with this pressure switch, the key switch did nothing but start the engine. It didn't supply any power to the gauges, charging system, etc.
Once the oil pressure reached a certain point, that pressure switch would close sending 12v to those circuits. It is a normally open switch. With the engine off, there should be 12v only on one side of that switch.
If someone has changed the key switch, they may have bypassed that pressure switch.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Thanks...I was talking this over with my Dad last night, and we were wondering why they set this up like this. My Dad suggested, if the oil pressure drops too low, it would sort of act like an idiot switch and all the gauges would go dead, attempting to get your attention. It is interesting why the gauges didn't just run off the key in the ON position, and have a low pressure light or something.
Soundguy
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if you leave the key on nothing bad happens, as nothing is powered off of it... ( in the run position )
soundguy
soundguy
I haven't jumped into this just yet, as it's summer now in CA, I don't really run the tractor that much because the ground is dry, dusty, and hard.
I've been fixing little thing on the tractor in the mean time, like the fuel gauge, generator, voltage regulator, exhaust manifold, trans issues, cleaning the radiator/oil cooler fins, belt, etc.
As I'm almost done with those smaller jobs, I've been saving the biggest job for last...which is the engine. It still starts up on the first rotation, seems to have plenty of power, and begins blowing oil into the exhaust manifold (which has some cracks in it) after about 5 minutes. I'm guessing the oil is coming from the valve guides.
My neighbor said if you increase the rpm on the engine, then let of, then push on the gas pedal quckly and you see a big puff of smoke out the back, than that is a good indication of oil getting past the valve guides.
I've been reading a bit in my MF 203/205 industrial workshop manual on what is involved with a major overhaul and I'm feeling a bit daunted by it, wondering if I'll be able to do it. I'm a bit nervous about things like getting the old cylinder liners out and the new ones in as I don't know if I have all the tools for that. I have just basic tools.
Knowledge-wise I have rebuilt a volkswagon motor before and a couple 2 stroke dirt bikes. I grew up around mechanics as my Dad owned a Chevron station with 3 service bays, but I don't remember seeing any engine rebuilds, and I had a mentor mechanic help me with the volks engine back then where we used his tools for the rebuild.
I don't mind investing some money into some tools, but can't at this time go hog wild.
I'm wondering if I shouldn't first try dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pump and also getting a valve train set and pull the head off and get the guides/vavles replaced, and have a machine shop help me with the valve seat resurfacing.
One more thing, there is some engine oil coming from the rear of the engine, I'm guessing from the rear seal, which I think I was told is a rope seal. I'm guessing I should replace that too, which means pulling the engine off the trans...but do I have to split the block to replace this seal?
If anyone could offer any kind of advice on my thinking above, I would greatly appreciate it. Is it worth trying the head, oil pump and seal first...than run the tractor for a while and see if the pump can keep the pressure up to an adequate level?
I understand if these jobs don't work, I'll have to get a buy a new head and oil pan gasket in the future, in order to go thru this again and rebuild the block.
I'm just wondering if the perkins couldn't do good for a number of years without having to get into the block...or should I just do it, and take the time to figure it out. Thanks for any advice
I've been fixing little thing on the tractor in the mean time, like the fuel gauge, generator, voltage regulator, exhaust manifold, trans issues, cleaning the radiator/oil cooler fins, belt, etc.
As I'm almost done with those smaller jobs, I've been saving the biggest job for last...which is the engine. It still starts up on the first rotation, seems to have plenty of power, and begins blowing oil into the exhaust manifold (which has some cracks in it) after about 5 minutes. I'm guessing the oil is coming from the valve guides.
My neighbor said if you increase the rpm on the engine, then let of, then push on the gas pedal quckly and you see a big puff of smoke out the back, than that is a good indication of oil getting past the valve guides.
I've been reading a bit in my MF 203/205 industrial workshop manual on what is involved with a major overhaul and I'm feeling a bit daunted by it, wondering if I'll be able to do it. I'm a bit nervous about things like getting the old cylinder liners out and the new ones in as I don't know if I have all the tools for that. I have just basic tools.
Knowledge-wise I have rebuilt a volkswagon motor before and a couple 2 stroke dirt bikes. I grew up around mechanics as my Dad owned a Chevron station with 3 service bays, but I don't remember seeing any engine rebuilds, and I had a mentor mechanic help me with the volks engine back then where we used his tools for the rebuild.
I don't mind investing some money into some tools, but can't at this time go hog wild.
I'm wondering if I shouldn't first try dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pump and also getting a valve train set and pull the head off and get the guides/vavles replaced, and have a machine shop help me with the valve seat resurfacing.
One more thing, there is some engine oil coming from the rear of the engine, I'm guessing from the rear seal, which I think I was told is a rope seal. I'm guessing I should replace that too, which means pulling the engine off the trans...but do I have to split the block to replace this seal?
If anyone could offer any kind of advice on my thinking above, I would greatly appreciate it. Is it worth trying the head, oil pump and seal first...than run the tractor for a while and see if the pump can keep the pressure up to an adequate level?
I understand if these jobs don't work, I'll have to get a buy a new head and oil pan gasket in the future, in order to go thru this again and rebuild the block.
I'm just wondering if the perkins couldn't do good for a number of years without having to get into the block...or should I just do it, and take the time to figure it out. Thanks for any advice
Gale Hawkins
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[quote It still starts up on the first rotation, seems to have plenty of power...
Sounds like you have an old tractor that is ready to work.
Thanks for the note. From what I understand, it sounds like I'd already be doing a good majority of the work...might be wise just to go the extra mile at that point. As I'm thinking about it more, I'm feeling a bit more confident about the job. I've read a few posts from guys who have gone thru the process and it doesn't sound that bad, it is a good deal of work, but if done right, shouldn't need a rebuild for decades (taking into consideration my usage is not everyday all day long). I'm thinking about just doing the whole thing, investing in some tools to measure things, making tools to save some cash like the sleeve puller, etc. Thanks for your notes...perhaps I'll shoot some photos and post them in this thread along the way if I feel up to it.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
then again.. ANY time you add a good amount of throttle to a diesel, it will make a puff of dark smoke till the engine catches up. it's unburnt fuel.. ever see a semi truck leave from a stop and roll smoke, then when up to speed.. no smoke?
soundguy