MF165 hydraulic questions

   / MF165 hydraulic questions #11  
The power steering canister has no dipstick. Only a plug threaded into it. That port is the oil level. Fill til it runs out and screw the plug back in. The plg seals. There is no vent. You can try this. Fill it up to that point. Start the engine and let it run with plug out and watch what happens. You may need to top it off a bit at first. A certain amount of oil circulation is expected, but if the fluid starts to foam up and steadily bubble out on the ground, then yes, the pump probably has some problems.

On the other hand, even if the pump is working properly, hard and uneven steering could be linkage related, as the power steering on the 165 and 175 mostly takes place between the grill and the radiator. Lots of inter related moving parts up there that do tend to create problems as things wear over time.
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions
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#12  
Thanks Harry. Doing a oil change / fuel filter service today and for sure check the PS like you suggest
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions #13  
There may also be a filter inside the pump housing. I would check out the parts diagram to see. If you are servicing the system might not be bad to make sure that's in decent shape.
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions #14  
Thanks Harry. Doing a oil change / fuel filter service today and for sure check the PS like you suggest
Doing fuel filters? Depending on the brand of elements, be careful with the quad ring seals. With Wix or NAPA filters the top of the element is all covered except for the outer edge. Common rookie mistake is to place one of the seals on top of the filter before installing it. WRONG. Just because it fits there doesn't make it right. If you do that you will never get it bled out and running again.

One more tip on fuel filters. Whenever possible I don't change filters on a cold engine. If it's running currently and I'm doing it for maintenance, I always start it up and let it run a while before messing with the filters. That way the pump, lines, and injectors are all primed and ready. The engine will crank faster when warm, things just go a lot smoother when opening up the system, bleeding it out and getting it started again.
 
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#15  
I wish I saw this earlier. I just changed them. In the filter mount (stays on engine - with all the lines etc) there was a groove which had a seal ring in it. I replaced those with new ones from the napa filters. I was able to bleed it but haven’t started. Waiting on the local parts store to get me the correct oil filter. Napa sold me canister filters and I need a cartridge for the oil
 
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#16  
I’m hoping I don’t have to bleed it all the way at the injectors. I just cracked the filter bleeds and filled them up. I replaced the water seperator filter first, bleed it and then did the other one
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions #17  
There's more.

Okay, you used NAPA filters, no problem there. I use them almost exclusively. You did NOT put an O ring on the top of the elements, correct? If you got the filters bled easily enough, then I think you're good on that point.

Next you need to bleed the pump as well. If you fail to do that, you will no doubt have to bleed all the way through to the injectors. It's a given the engine will hit a few licks, die, and will not start again until you do. There is a small bleed port on the pump body, not far from the I.D. plate. Takes a 5/16 wrench to open and close. Open it up two or three turns, pump the hand primer until you get fuel without air out the vent. After that I usually crank the engine a couple revolutions with the starter and the fuel stop cable pulled out so the pump is OFF. After a few cranks it should spew fuel out the open bleeder in a good steam, maybe three feet or more. Tighten the bleed screw, crank it a bit more and push the stop cable in. It should fire right up.
 
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#18  
I just bleed the filters as I had described before. It fires right up. I’ve put about 8 hours run time and it since then and all is good. No leaks. I did not do anything with the PS yet. It’s giving me quite a work out but that’s ok. I have to get a funnel small enough plus some more fluid. I am thinking I will just add straight 30 weight oil - so if it does leak into engine it shouldn’t dilute the crankcase oil
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions #19  
Here is a diagram of what the pump has going on. So there is a filter in there that would be worth checking out. Might give you a clue as to the problem when you open it up.
Screenshot_20230521-090447.png
 
   / MF165 hydraulic questions
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#20  
Thank you for the diagram! I need to get a service manual and just haven't gotten that done yet.
 
 
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