lsd
New member
Found this thread while looking for a service manual for a U4384, Do you still do this if so can you get me one or tell me where I can get one? Thanks
Montana shop manuals
- Thread starter Tul01
- Start date
Guesseral
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2011
- Messages
- 1,174
- Location
- Erie Pa.
- Tractor
- Montana R4944, Ford Jubilee, Ford 621, Ford 841
Go to the Montana web site do a contact us and ask for a service manual. That is how I got mine they emailed it to me if I want I can just print it. Of course the manual is for a comprable LS but what ever.
lsd
New member
I will do that, Thank You, Larren
lsd
New member
My U4384 Steering unit right below the steering wheel has a seep it's not real bad but it seems to get worse the more I use it I bought this tractor used 3 years old with only 50 hrs on it the dealer said that he would try to get an o ring kit for it.. Well yesterday he said that he can't find one and to replace the unit would be Quite expensive and to not worry about the leak. does anyone know anything about this? can I get a steering unit and replace it myself? I'm pretty well mechanically inclined. If so where do I look for one Thank you
bullaard
New member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2009
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Bertram, Texas (Austin)
- Tractor
- 1975 JD 4430, 2008 Montana 5740C, Polaris Ranger,
found out something today.... was at Case IH dealer getting Baler belts relaced for my 8430 CIH baler. When I drove up i noticed a small New Holland tractor in the front of the store. The dash looks similar to my Montana 5740C. Soooo I asked the sales man if that tractor was also built by LS Cable and he said yes. It seems like it was ~35HP 4x4 ROPS tractor. He said the highest horsepower they get in New Holland from that manufacturer is called 50HP.. This may be another source of parts for your Montana if you can find the crossover model in New Holland... Made my day. Wonder if they have diesel tanks cheaper?...Probably NOT..LOL
lsd
New member
Thank you for the good info
greengo
New member
I just bought a Montana 2840 and need a repair manual. The 3 point lift does not work properly, comes up way too slowly, the speed valve may be defective? Perhaps someone out there knows a little about it.
spokane 1
Silver Member
This repair has to do with the Montana tractor 3040 transmission and is not in the manual.
This repair has to do with the 3040 or any tractor that is hard to shift.
(((first off anything that is hard to shift take this as a tell tell sign there is something wrong with your clutch))) oil on the clutch or a bad pilot bearing can cause you a entire loss of your F-R shuttle.
Repair your clutch or bearing immediately. You should be able to shift with your tiny pinky...or it will break your shift linkage.
Ok this repair is for the guys who forced it and broke their F-R shiftier.
don't sweat it..ill step you thru it....since even the Montana tractor tech cant do this. (or wouldn't share it)
1: your going to have to remove your clutch box lid all shiftier's have to be removed F-R shifter will fall off since you broke it and the range shifter will remove easily with the roll pin.
pry lid at back slowly do not strike it with chisels a big pry bar and steady force the lid will ease upward after all the bolts are removed.
wiggle your lid up the remaining shifter rods and off.
2: drain your forward oil plug..nice clean pan you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.
3: study your trans so you understand when your in neutral and when in gear.
with your lid off you can shift nearly all gears except reverse by hand.
find and select neutral...your center shaft will roll freely by hand when your in N
4:roll your main gear shaft until you can feel the snap ring come TDC on the leading gear #34 on the print comes to the top dead center. LOCK TRANS IN GEAR.
Now either use 90 degree snap ring pliers or outward snap pliers with paddles that can release this snap ring. its a biggy no cheap tools with survive...use the good stuff.
5: after you release this most forward snap ring on your main shaft your gear 34 should advance forward. use brass as your persuasion...your internal any these gears will chip with steel hammers so use brass round bar to bring this gear forward toward the front of trans. just bring it up 1/4 inch.
6: go to your broken F-R shift shaft item #11 on the print clamp on with vise grips (broken shafts will vary) so grab toward the top.
wiggle the shaft upward by hand out of its machined pocket lift upward 3/4s of a inch and roll the shaft a little more than 180 degrees more like 270.
SHIFT TRANS INTO NEUTRAL AT THIS POINT.
7: bring the broken shift shaft upwards the shift selector ball #7 is roll pinned on to the shaft 11 and it needs to be brought upward until it is centered in the gear 34,,Now hand roll the main shaft so the the shaft and shift selector #7 feeds inside the gear cog between the trans case wall and gear there's only 1/4 inch clearance here and your shift selector will use all of it rch clearance. half of your selector will be in the gear cog and half will be scrapping the trans case wall as it comes out.
This appears to be built this way (and its the only way to remove this without splitting the tractor and removing all the shafts.)
I called a million people and no one came up with this for instructions.
either they were not willing to share or were simply dumbfounded when it told them top removal was possible.
so hopefully if you ever brake this F-R shaft in your 3040 tractor don't sweat it....it is possible to remove this shaft in just hours
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THIS TRACTOR FOR THIS SHAFT REMOVAL
BUT YOU WILL UNDERSTAND THE "RCH" THEORY "when your done" THIS WILL BE ALL YOU GET FOR CLEARANCE TO REMOVE YOUR BROKEN SHAFT. (between the case wall and the unemployed side of your main shaft #34 gearcog))....its tight and it scrapes the red paint inside your case but it will not break item #7 selector arm.
It re-installs the same way. its your choice....a few hours my way.... or 40-80 hours to split your tractor and then remove all the shafts from your clutch box. some have told them they junked their tractors because of this shaft..needlessly. Montana tractor.com said this is a 5000 dollar job.
I just laughed.....this is a 200 dollar job people total....! with part.
but make sure your clutch is free....and your tractor shifts with 1 pinky finger when done with the engine running.
(otherwise this shaft will break again.):
This repair has to do with the 3040 or any tractor that is hard to shift.
(((first off anything that is hard to shift take this as a tell tell sign there is something wrong with your clutch))) oil on the clutch or a bad pilot bearing can cause you a entire loss of your F-R shuttle.
Repair your clutch or bearing immediately. You should be able to shift with your tiny pinky...or it will break your shift linkage.
Ok this repair is for the guys who forced it and broke their F-R shiftier.
don't sweat it..ill step you thru it....since even the Montana tractor tech cant do this. (or wouldn't share it)
1: your going to have to remove your clutch box lid all shiftier's have to be removed F-R shifter will fall off since you broke it and the range shifter will remove easily with the roll pin.
pry lid at back slowly do not strike it with chisels a big pry bar and steady force the lid will ease upward after all the bolts are removed.
wiggle your lid up the remaining shifter rods and off.
2: drain your forward oil plug..nice clean pan you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.
3: study your trans so you understand when your in neutral and when in gear.
with your lid off you can shift nearly all gears except reverse by hand.
find and select neutral...your center shaft will roll freely by hand when your in N
4:roll your main gear shaft until you can feel the snap ring come TDC on the leading gear #34 on the print comes to the top dead center. LOCK TRANS IN GEAR.
Now either use 90 degree snap ring pliers or outward snap pliers with paddles that can release this snap ring. its a biggy no cheap tools with survive...use the good stuff.
5: after you release this most forward snap ring on your main shaft your gear 34 should advance forward. use brass as your persuasion...your internal any these gears will chip with steel hammers so use brass round bar to bring this gear forward toward the front of trans. just bring it up 1/4 inch.
6: go to your broken F-R shift shaft item #11 on the print clamp on with vise grips (broken shafts will vary) so grab toward the top.
wiggle the shaft upward by hand out of its machined pocket lift upward 3/4s of a inch and roll the shaft a little more than 180 degrees more like 270.
SHIFT TRANS INTO NEUTRAL AT THIS POINT.
7: bring the broken shift shaft upwards the shift selector ball #7 is roll pinned on to the shaft 11 and it needs to be brought upward until it is centered in the gear 34,,Now hand roll the main shaft so the the shaft and shift selector #7 feeds inside the gear cog between the trans case wall and gear there's only 1/4 inch clearance here and your shift selector will use all of it rch clearance. half of your selector will be in the gear cog and half will be scrapping the trans case wall as it comes out.
This appears to be built this way (and its the only way to remove this without splitting the tractor and removing all the shafts.)
I called a million people and no one came up with this for instructions.
either they were not willing to share or were simply dumbfounded when it told them top removal was possible.
so hopefully if you ever brake this F-R shaft in your 3040 tractor don't sweat it....it is possible to remove this shaft in just hours
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THIS TRACTOR FOR THIS SHAFT REMOVAL
BUT YOU WILL UNDERSTAND THE "RCH" THEORY "when your done" THIS WILL BE ALL YOU GET FOR CLEARANCE TO REMOVE YOUR BROKEN SHAFT. (between the case wall and the unemployed side of your main shaft #34 gearcog))....its tight and it scrapes the red paint inside your case but it will not break item #7 selector arm.
It re-installs the same way. its your choice....a few hours my way.... or 40-80 hours to split your tractor and then remove all the shafts from your clutch box. some have told them they junked their tractors because of this shaft..needlessly. Montana tractor.com said this is a 5000 dollar job.
I just laughed.....this is a 200 dollar job people total....! with part.
but make sure your clutch is free....and your tractor shifts with 1 pinky finger when done with the engine running.
(otherwise this shaft will break again.):
WOW, Thanks Spokane1.
I have to ask - what diagram do those part numbers refer to ?
and do you know what other tractors this transmission is used on ?
I have a general curiosity about which "Asian" tractors use which common sub assemblies, i.e. transmissions, axles, etc.
The engines are reasonably easy to identify and figure, the rest - not so much.
I have to ask - what diagram do those part numbers refer to ?
and do you know what other tractors this transmission is used on ?
I have a general curiosity about which "Asian" tractors use which common sub assemblies, i.e. transmissions, axles, etc.
The engines are reasonably easy to identify and figure, the rest - not so much.
spokane 1
Silver Member
Ive split many tractors, hoes and dozers, this is my first Montana....and its way tighter to work on than Yanmar
The best I can do is supply a free PDF part breakdown for the Montana 3040 the LS tractor 3040 site has the same preview only different numbers
The breakdown is confusing to say the least ...and you should have to have some higher ed or many years in transmissions before you attempt a deep internal transmission repair.
transmissions begins on page 30 of this parts explosion.
http://partsformontanatractors.com/files/Montana_SParts_3040_38402.pdf