For sure! What a mess…I keep telling the wife, “I’m thinking it’s time for one of those new mid-size diesel tractors!” LOLYIKES!
For sure! What a mess…I keep telling the wife, “I’m thinking it’s time for one of those new mid-size diesel tractors!” LOLYIKES!
Actually I think the switch is done for as well—a meter on it last night showed all kinds of “static” or shorting, and wiggling the key really acted up…If repairing that connector is the only thing needed to get your PT running again after all your other work, the connector is cheap in comparison.
FWIW: Can I suggest considering a marine ignition switch, as they are far more weather resistant that the typical tractor ignition switches. If you have ever taken one of these switches apart, there isn't much of any isolation between the keyhole and the contacts to speak of. They might function better on a vertical dash, but on an inclined dash, water and dirt gets into the contacts pretty easily, at least in my opinion.Actually I think the switch is done for as well—a meter on it last night showed all kinds of “static” or shorting, and wiggling the key really acted up…
Good point Peter. Thanks for that. Evidently that was the issue with the old switch…in trying to determine which pins correlated with switch positions I kept getting different results. Then found the “static” inside the switch. So now I have a replacement “universal” mower switch (same 5 tabs but different locations) and I’m a bit nervous about where to put the 4 wires from the melted harness. I have Red, Orange, Green, and White. Last night I tried in the dark to trace down the wires, but the green and white have eluded me. About to try again today. In younger years I’d jump in and start “experimenting”. These recent years I’m more timid at that, afraid of shorting something out, and of course, I tend to jump if I cause an errant spark!FWIW: Can I suggest considering a marine ignition switch, as they are far more weather resistant that the typical tractor ignition switches. If you have ever taken one of these switches apart, there isn't much of any isolation between the keyhole and the contacts to speak of. They might function better on a vertical dash, but on an inclined dash, water and dirt gets into the contacts pretty easily, at least in my opinion.
All the best,
Peter
This afternoon between a CH25 PDF service manual, a test light and some short cables, I got the new switch to work. All functions now good. I had spliced in some longer wires to make it easier to work with—tonight I’m going to pull most of them and redo, so I can mount the switch in the console panel. One thing though—that nervousness of an errant spark or shock? Well I got the shock! LOL I was leaning against the canopy post and holding the switch in my hand. When I cut the key off, I got that familiar feeling in my hand and arm! Yikes! The new switch had a ground tab on it that I didn’t use (the original one didn’t have a ground lug.) Maybe I need to run a ground from the switch, or maybe it grounds once it’s put back in the console?
Congratulations!
I think that the key case will ground to the console, but I would also connect the tab to ground. (Belt and suspenders here.)
If it were me, I would run a ground wire. After I bought my 1445, I realized that the ground path was through the swivel links in the middle of the tractor as far as I could tell. So, I ran a ground wire to the console, and one to the rear tub, all bonded together at the negative battery bolt on the engine. I have chased too many ground issues in the past, and I wanted a good ground. As I said, I may be on the belt and suspenders end of things...
All the best,
Peter