Hi All,
I've got a John Deere 2210 and I've got a (barely) used 210 loader that I'm considering purchasing from a dealer up in New York. I would have to get it delivered via freight carrier.
It's missing the subframe (mounting brackets) and hood guard, but it looks like I can get those from greenfarmparts.com:
JOHN DEERE FRAME AW31263
JOHN DEERE FRAME AW31264
John Deere Hood Guard Kit BW15217
When I add up the cost of freight, loader, subframe, and hood guard, I'm at about $2600. The best price I've been able to find on a new, 200CX loader, mounted on the tractor, is $3200. I've checked on Koyker, Rhino, Bush Hog, and Woods loaders, and all of them are the same or more.
If I take the loader to a dealer for mounting, I would pay about $250. I'm thinking about getting this 210 loader and trying to mount it myself. I looked over the instructions in the manual and it doesn't seem to difficulty--you basically have to bolt the subframe on, and torque it to the appropriate tightness. Here's the manual (scroll down to "Recommended Set Up/Assembly Sequence" and read that and the following several sections for the installation instructions):
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW49370_19/?tM=FR
I don't see anything about adding hydraulic fluid. Do I need to add extra fluid since the loader is going to hold a certain amount of fluid in the lines and cylinders? It runs off the same oil reservoir as the hydrostatic transmission, right?
So I've got to decide if:
1) If it's worth saving $600 to mount it myself, and get the older 210 loader (instead of the 200CX loader, which is I guess a better loader?)
2) If I'm being unrealistic thinking I can mount it myself. It just doesn't seem that it should be that difficulty, especially considering it's a quick-detach loader.
I'm no diesel engine mechanic, but I'm not afraid of a wrench, either.
-Josh
I've got a John Deere 2210 and I've got a (barely) used 210 loader that I'm considering purchasing from a dealer up in New York. I would have to get it delivered via freight carrier.
It's missing the subframe (mounting brackets) and hood guard, but it looks like I can get those from greenfarmparts.com:
JOHN DEERE FRAME AW31263
JOHN DEERE FRAME AW31264
John Deere Hood Guard Kit BW15217
When I add up the cost of freight, loader, subframe, and hood guard, I'm at about $2600. The best price I've been able to find on a new, 200CX loader, mounted on the tractor, is $3200. I've checked on Koyker, Rhino, Bush Hog, and Woods loaders, and all of them are the same or more.
If I take the loader to a dealer for mounting, I would pay about $250. I'm thinking about getting this 210 loader and trying to mount it myself. I looked over the instructions in the manual and it doesn't seem to difficulty--you basically have to bolt the subframe on, and torque it to the appropriate tightness. Here's the manual (scroll down to "Recommended Set Up/Assembly Sequence" and read that and the following several sections for the installation instructions):
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW49370_19/?tM=FR
I don't see anything about adding hydraulic fluid. Do I need to add extra fluid since the loader is going to hold a certain amount of fluid in the lines and cylinders? It runs off the same oil reservoir as the hydrostatic transmission, right?
So I've got to decide if:
1) If it's worth saving $600 to mount it myself, and get the older 210 loader (instead of the 200CX loader, which is I guess a better loader?)
2) If I'm being unrealistic thinking I can mount it myself. It just doesn't seem that it should be that difficulty, especially considering it's a quick-detach loader.
I'm no diesel engine mechanic, but I'm not afraid of a wrench, either.
-Josh