My Cockshutt 40

[1950T]

becarefull of the exhaust manifolds one these old oliver/cockshuts. they have a tendecy to get hairline cracks in them. my super77 and my 70 had cracks in the manifolds when we drug them out of the shed to get em going again. they had been sitting since the 80s along with a JD g 2banger.

 

[RRILEY]

The cats out of the bag, the wife got home this mourning. Of course it's "What are you going to do with that". She was not upset. I really did not think she would be either. I did get the spark plugs loose today. Now to find a socket large enough to try to turn it over, after I clean out the depression for the plugs.
I will have many pics to remember what went where to help put back together.
Bob

 

[flusher]

Sorry forgot to mention that yes I plan on a complete tear down for the engine , but the transmission work I have never done. I will replace seals for the PTO and such but to get into that scares the you know what out of me.
The tin has minor issues so I feel lucky and also have friends that restore old cars so maybe I can get help with that.
I have been pouring liquid wrench on the spark plugs to help and will wait about a week or so to try to remove them. I want to make sure the engine is not froze.
It's hard not to pick up some tools and see what is this going to do.
Bob

Not to worry. If that Cockshutt 40 tranny is anything like the 3F/1R box on my 1951 MM BF, it's simple as can be--a handful of gears, 4 forks and 3 rails.



The most difficult part is getting the all the forks to engage their proper gears simultanously as you button up the tranny. It takes a little maneuvering, but it's really easy to do.

 

[RRILEY]

Thanks flusher. That makes me feel better about the rear end part. I am going to start with the tires and rims because the fronts are falling off the rims and the backs are loaded and bulging ready to bust. the left rear rim is so badly rusted I don't think I can salvage it. This is a learning curve for me.
I thought I would start with the front to rear after I pull the engine and replace bearings steering bearings and radiator , and did I forget rebuild starter and generator, and lets see, what else I can find.
I have noticed on the starter and generator there is a little spring like cap so I can put oil in them. But now I think about it I will tighten up the spark plugs and get some de-greaser and give her a good cleaning. It looks like the valve cover gasket has seen better days and the dip stick looks about like grease.
I'm happy.
Bob

 

[Johndeere3720]

congrats on the tractor!:thumbsup: that will definitely be a lot of fun to fix up.

 

[flusher]

Thanks flusher. That makes me feel better about the rear end part. I am going to start with the tires and rims because the fronts are falling off the rims and the backs are loaded and bulging ready to bust. the left rear rim is so badly rusted I don't think I can salvage it. This is a learning curve for me.
I thought I would start with the front to rear after I pull the engine and replace bearings steering bearings and radiator , and did I forget rebuild starter and generator, and lets see, what else I can find.
I have noticed on the starter and generator there is a little spring like cap so I can put oil in them. But now I think about it I will tighten up the spark plugs and get some de-greaser and give her a good cleaning. It looks like the valve cover gasket has seen better days and the dip stick looks about like grease.
I'm happy.
Bob

Don't forget to rebuild the water pump on your 40.

I'm having trouble getting the pump on my 1951 MM BF disassembled (don't want to damage the cast housing since I haven't been able to find a replacement pump with housing--only have the rebuild kit for the innards). The bearing on that BF pump is siezed and is really stuck in the housing. I may have to send the pump out to a rebuilder to get it disassembled and refurbished.

 

[flusher]

Not to worry. If that Cockshutt 40 tranny is anything like the 3F/1R box on my 1951 MM BF, it's simple as can be--a handful of gears, 4 forks and 3 rails.

View attachment 171821 View attachment 171822

The most difficult part is getting the all the forks to engage their proper gears simultanously as you button up the tranny. It takes a little maneuvering, but it's really easy to do.

I noticed that I made a couple of errors--it's 4F/1R and there are 3 forks, not 4 in that BF tranny.

 

[RRILEY]

The tranny is 6 forward and 2 reverse. I have found on Steiner tractor parts I can get a new water pump and other necessities like distributor caps and such so that will help.

 

[RRILEY]

Forgot to mention there is a hydraulic pump on the left side that will have to be addressed when I tear the engine apart. This could get interesting and I am glad I have a friend that does this sort of thing.
I will take pics tomorrow and post this pump. what is really cool is the valve switch connected to the operators station with a bent rod connected to a threaded rod through the control valve. That part has some serious rust. The pics will show a lot.
I'll get my shoes back on and will be back before dark,
Bob

 

[RRILEY]

Here are some pics,