My First Grading Project...

   / My First Grading Project... #1  

paccorti

Gold Member
Joined
May 21, 2000
Messages
481
Location
Hillsboro Virginia (near Purcellville)
Tractor
TC35D with 16LA Loader
It takes more than cold rain and the threat of a major snowstorm to keep me out of the tractor seat. All the construction traffic has really torn up the gravel road into our community. In particular the tire tracks are deeply sunk in moist areas of the road.

Well despite the cold rain (and no cab just coveralls) I set off to see how well I could fix up the road. My goals were modest. I was prepared to try fixing things for five minutes and "give up" if the rain was too much. Implement of choice, a TC35D with 6' FEL and nothing else.

Technique. Here is what I tried. First with FEL on float and bucked rolled a lot (say 45 degree angle to ground) I found that I could take maybe 1/2 inch off the crown per backdrag pass (crown was too high). My other problem was that I needed to pull gravel from the shoulders of the road back into the tire track area. What worked well but slow was to backdrag the gravel into the tire track area (by driving across the width of the road). This all FEL technique worked well for me. The road is not perfect but much improved. I also tried scooping gravel on the front pass and filling the ruts. That worked well for areas that needed a lot of fill.

Initially I thought I wanted a boxblade with scarifiers to fix up the road. I figured the scarifiers would pull up some gravel and the blade would help with grading. Now I'm thinking that a rear blade would be more useful. In particular with angle adjustment I could move gravel from the shoulder back to the road without all the driving around. I guess a boxblade could do this too but perhaps not as well. I've read the 8 million posts on gravel road maintenance. Perhaps there is not too much more to say, just wanted to relate my experience.

At the moment my implement "du jour" is a 7' Land Pride series 35 rear blade with a guage wheel. Anybody know what one of these puppies costs? At least I could use it for snow removal.

Peter
 
   / My First Grading Project... #2  
Peter,
By the sounds you have a part time job..road repair.
Be careful when your back dragging,for there might be an on looker and wouldn't want you roll up on them w/your TC35..yikes

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
 
   / My First Grading Project... #3  
Peter:

That's pretty much the technique I used on our subdivision road a couple of weeks ago (but I chose a day when it wasn't raining.../w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif).

The road had gotten a few fair size potholes in it and a section of washboard. Like you, I just used the FEL, For the potholes, I scooped up some gravel from the side of the road and dumped it in the potholes then back-dragged them. For the washboard section, I back-dragged gravel from the sides.

We don't have a problem with the crown or drainage - just the annual potholes and washboard. The homeowner association solution is to just dump more gravel on the top every spring. Same potholes and washboard keep coming back. I believe the right way is to go over the road with scarifiers, digging up the surface down to the bottom of the potholes/washboard. Then put on more gravel if needed. But that's not my job. I just get the Kubota out and do a little stopgap maintenance when it gets to really bugging me and nobody else will.

I just got a 6' rake which I'll use to maintain my own 350' of driveway as soon as it thaws & dries out.

By the way, we're almost neighbors - I'm down the hill and just across the river in Summit Point, south of Charles Town. You getting much snow today?

18-32378-billanim.gif
 
   / My First Grading Project... #4  
Peter, the rain down here was very heavy also, about a inch, so my tc35 sat in the garage. The FEL is good for "small" jobs, but for longer runs the box scrape is better for me. I've done exactly what you were doing, and while soft gravel is easier for the FEL to work on wait til summer when it's baked hard and you want to bust it up. FEL will just bounce off.
Have you tried the trick where you are backing and scraping with the FEL rolled "dumped" and you've got a good pile building up under the blade then turn your wheel and swing the FEL around and sling the pile to the side. If you get good at this you can really sling some material left and right and not just back.
I've not had the chance to do this on my tc35 yet, but I did sorta notice that the loader operation wasn't quite the same as my b2400. In particular the moving the joystick to the stops both back and right at the same time only raises the arms and doesn't roll back the bucket too. Have you noticed that?

gary
 
   / My First Grading Project...
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Hey Bill,

You're right. Yahoo Maps say's that you're about 20 miles away. I'm about 1 mile North of Hillsboro off Mountain Rd. We can have a tractor party!

The big snow has turned into the big joke. We have no accumulation here to speak of. How about you?

Peter
 
   / My First Grading Project...
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Gary,

You make a good point about the hard packed gravel. I guess I'm having a hard time with all this. I want a new implement (I even have "permission") I'm just not sure what to get /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

A box blade would be useful but everyone says that I need hydraulic top link. I want that too but it's not in the short term budget. Plus some people say that box blades are hard to use. A rear blade would be useful for road work and snow removal but it has no rippers. I could get bucket teeth. That would be useful for picking up my many fallen trees and branches. Plus I could dig with it but perhaps not as well as I would like. Can I back drag bucket teeth to break up hard gravel? Sigh, the mind spins with the many possibilities.

I don't remember trying your specific joystick operation but I have gotten simultaneous boom and bucket movement. The thing I have to remember the most is that the bucket is easier to move than the boom (at least boom up and rollback). So I usually don't move the joystick to both stops at the same time. I usually postion the joystick for more boom and less bucket.

Peter
 
   / My First Grading Project... #7  
Peter:
Tractor party! Good Idea. I used to come thru Hillsboro occasionally on my way home. After getting off the MARC train in Brunswick I'd go down to route 9 and take that down the hill to avoid 340 between Harpers Ferry and Charles Town when they were paving it and working on the bridge. Now I work in Reston so I just take route 7 and the toll road in every day. Hillsboro is a pretty area.

But seriously, my Gannon box blade is only 36" wide and has manual rippers but if you're interested in trying it out, I'd be glad to let you borrow it. It fits easily in the back of a pickup.

If you're looking for a local source of implements, have you tried Browning Equipment in Purcellville? I get all my Kubota parts there and they are real nice folks. Haven't bought any implements from them though. If you're interested, see Wayne in sales.
I bought my landscape rake from Roadside Farm Equipment on Route 7 between Berryville and Winchester. Nice folks there too. They carry Lineback implements.

Same with the snow down the hill at my place. My wife called about noon and said "We had 4" on the ground but It's all melting!" By the time I got home, the snow was gone except for places that are in deep shade.

18-32378-billanim.gif
 
   / My First Grading Project... #8  
By road, Yahoo says I'm 38 miles away (Ijamsville, MD), less than that as the crow flies. Can I take the 'bota on White's Ferry and save a good 15 miles?
 
   / My First Grading Project... #9  
Hey, Peter, I'm just about 20 miles east of Hillsboro myself, but I take it you're not talking about Hillsboro, TX./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

<font color=blue>Can I back drag bucket teeth to break up hard gravel?</font color=blue>

Yes, I did some of that today. My brother-in-law has an abandoned crushed rock driveway that I've been tearing out today and moving the rock to widen the driveway he uses. The toothbar really does make a difference. There was some that I tore loose by back dragging to see how it worked, but for the most part I just went forward digging it out with the front end loader. Of course, I had to smooth the rock where I was putting it, and had to smooth out the area I removed it from. And I used a box blade for over 4 years without a hydraulic top link and got a lot of work done with it, but I probably won't be without the hydraulic top link in the future. It really does make the work go faster and easier./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Bird
 
   / My First Grading Project...
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Bill,

That is mighty kind of you to offer the boxblade for a quick try. I might take you up on that. Gannon... I see you like the good stuff too.

I've been to WVA a few times. In fact, I sometimes go windsurfing at Mt. Storm. Got to love that nice warm water (a power plant uses the lake for cooling). I go to Browning equipment all the time. I met both Peter and Wayne. Real nice people, no doubt about it. Have you seen the L48 they have out front lately? My son's favorite restaurant is Al's (the pizza place) just across the street. I'll call Browning soon for some prices.

My future house (in Hillsboro) is just a concrete hole in the ground right now, but joists are going in this week. If you like mud you're welcome to stop by any weekend!

Peter
 
 
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