My home made Row Hipper

[JC-jetro]

Howdy all

A buddy of mine gave me couple of old 16" dia disks and after looking at a pile of scrap metal and what I have seen here and there decided to build me one. I can change the angle of attack and depth pretty easy. I'm afraid it might not be wide enough, although should be able to easily add it on to my single row cultivator. I'm done with my summer garden but will try it this fall to see how it work. I'd appreciate comment specially from the guys who have and used hipper before.

Disks did not have a hub. Luckily the dia of the hole was pretty close to a 1" threaded coupling. Push the coupling thru, welded on both sides. used a solid shaft from an overhead door for the spindle but it had a lot of flop. Used a short nipple with the coupling and cut it flush, used the rest of short nipple and put on the other side. The spindle fitted nice and tight but easy to turn . I then drilled hole, tapped and put a grease zerk for the hub. It has plenty of room to hold the grease in.



Used a piece of 1 1/2" sch 40 steel pipe, poked two 1"dia holes in it and welded on the solid shaft/spindle.



used and old horizontal draw bar, to mount the disk/shaft. Made a channel section to hold the pipe tight. Added a welded on nut and a bolt to keep the pipe from turning.



Put couple of 1" spacer washer, bend the piece of cattle panel galvanized wire rod to keep the disk from coming off the shaft/spindle and greased it good.



Used a piece of uni-strut to make the top link connection to keep the horizontal draw bar from spinning.






All I need to do is to take it to my place and give it a go.

JC,

 

[Marveltone]

Very cool! Can't wait to hear how it works.

Joe

 

[k0ua]

There is just something very "cool" about making your own implement's isn't there?:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[JC-jetro]

There is just something very "cool" about making your own implement's isn't there?:thumbsup:

James K0UA

Yep, specially if it came out up out of a scrap pile. It takes only few minutes to totally disassemble it and use TSB bought horizontal draw bar and use it for anything else I need.

Marveltone. That make two of us. I trust it'll work just fine, I might even add small 5" sweep to make a furrower on top of the raised row. I'm planning to use it this fall for some beets and potatoes.

JC,

 

[dalelisa]

looks great and a easy build at that. i bet it will work as good as a store bought one.

 

[JC-jetro]

looks great and a easy build at that. i bet it will work as good as a store bought one.

It cost me less than $10. Old disks were given to me by a friend and the rest was odds and ends scrap stuff. I bought the draw bar several years ago from TSC , I think about $25. I suspect it should work about the same as others as I can adjust all heights and angles.

JC,

 

[BHD]

it may do what your wanting it to do, but the brackets look a little light duty to me,
hope it holds up,

 

[JC-jetro]

it may do what your wanting it to do, but the brackets look a little light duty to me,
hope it holds up,

Are you talking about the bracket that hold the pipe to the draw bar? it is what I just took at of my scrap pile. there is plenty where that cam from and much beefier. If it fails I just cut another piece, drill two holes and put it in.

JC,

 

[sandman2234]

Depending on your soil and the load you put on those disks, I can see a couple of places where a possible failure could happen. Hopefully if it fails it won't be a major failure. Instead of adding a thicker, heavier retaining plate at the pipes, maybe put an additional pair of bolts in a 4 bolt pattern to prevent it from twisting as the bolts attempt to fail. Adding four bolts to a plate bolted on the back side of the drawbar (allowing for the heads of the two existing bolts) and two more of the small plates on the front side (like the one you have) would add an huge amount of strength. Adding just one more would enough, but adding two is easier, unless you are willing to weld to the drawbar, which you haven't had to do as of yet. Is there a weld on the top edge of the angle on the back side of the square tubing? I didn't see a picture showing that area, so I can't tell. If not, I would add a weld there to help keep the upright from pulling away from the angle.
If you give it a try as it, and the soil loads aren't too heavy with those large discs, I think it will do a fine job. Nice work! I really need to build one of these, if the wife keeps putting in a garden.
David from jax

 

[JC-jetro]

Depending on your soil and the load you put on those disks, I can see a couple of places where a possible failure could happen. Hopefully if it fails it won't be a major failure. Instead of adding a thicker, heavier retaining plate at the pipes, maybe put an additional pair of bolts in a 4 bolt pattern to prevent it from twisting as the bolts attempt to fail. Adding four bolts to a plate bolted on the back side of the drawbar (allowing for the heads of the two existing bolts) and two more of the small plates on the front side (like the one you have) would add an huge amount of strength. Adding just one more would enough, but adding two is easier, unless you are willing to weld to the drawbar, which you haven't had to do as of yet. Is there a weld on the top edge of the angle on the back side of the square tubing? I didn't see a picture showing that area, so I can't tell. If not, I would add a weld there to help keep the upright from pulling away from the angle.
If you give it a try as it, and the soil loads aren't too heavy with those large discs, I think it will do a fine job. Nice work! I really need to build one of these, if the wife keeps putting in a garden.
David from jax

David,

4 bolt pattern works well. One reason I did not do that was because I did not want to do any welding on the draw bar and use the holes that were available to use. The pipe will not turn as I have put in a jam bolt. when I find out what angle works best for the hill (raised bed) I want then I will drill a little dimple on the pipe so the bolt would dig in and further curtail turning. On the upright it does have the weld in the back. The short piece of Uni-strut is just what I had on hand without doing much modification. Have enough pipe to make the top link connection like what I did on the disk when and if I need to. I will not be using the disk on virgin ground. My garden site got pretty good top soil, but I will totally till with my 5 foot tiller to a powder before I use the hiller so I don't suspect much stress on it. Good points you made

JC,






I made contraption below to use and pull t-post out of the ground. Now I use my HF quick attache device hook for it. I basically turned top link 90 degrees for a new and improved use.