wmonroe
Elite Member
Very nice job. One question, when painting the engine, transmission, rear axle, etc. how do you get it degreased and cleaned enough to get good adhesion and not have dirt in the paint?
my winter project
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Soundguy
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in that pic I just have the sheet metal set up there to make sure it all fits, since all the parts came from like 10 different tractors.
ont he tins, I buf them down to shiney metal, then wipe down with naptha and a clean rag.. then i prime and paint.
on the cast i wire wheel all the loose stuff off, then degrease with petro degreaser, then degrease with soap degreaser like purple stuff.. then power wash, then degrease with purple stuff again, power wash again, then let dry... then I prime / paint.
soundguy
ont he tins, I buf them down to shiney metal, then wipe down with naptha and a clean rag.. then i prime and paint.
on the cast i wire wheel all the loose stuff off, then degrease with petro degreaser, then degrease with soap degreaser like purple stuff.. then power wash, then degrease with purple stuff again, power wash again, then let dry... then I prime / paint.
soundguy
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
got the hood, grill, seat, and fenders primed.
got the hood painted.
maybee on wednesday I'll start degreasing the chassie.
soundguy
got the hood painted.
maybee on wednesday I'll start degreasing the chassie.
soundguy
SupplySergeant
New member
How do you strip the tinwork before you polish it? It doesn't look like sandblast.
Sorry, it would help if I'd read all the post. Does the paint and rust buff off easily, or do you have burn it hard with a wire wheel?
Sorry, it would help if I'd read all the post. Does the paint and rust buff off easily, or do you have burn it hard with a wire wheel?
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Soundguy
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i prepped the tinwork by taking it all apart.
some of it was done with a wire wheel and knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder, some with a wire cup, and some with a knotted wire cup, probably 20% of the work was done with wire.. the other 80% was done using 3m surfacing pads.. the black 'rust and paint' remover ones.. IE.. the agressive ones.. not the red finish pads. probably took me 20 real hours of 'wheel' time to remove all the paint and rust from the tins..
soundguy
some of it was done with a wire wheel and knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder, some with a wire cup, and some with a knotted wire cup, probably 20% of the work was done with wire.. the other 80% was done using 3m surfacing pads.. the black 'rust and paint' remover ones.. IE.. the agressive ones.. not the red finish pads. probably took me 20 real hours of 'wheel' time to remove all the paint and rust from the tins..
soundguy
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
got the fenders shot as well as the seat.
all tin is now painted.
have done -0- work on the rims.. am saving them for last.
pressure washed the chassie, then degreased with foamy engine cleaner.. then pwashed again.. then hit it with purple stuff.. pwash, then more purple stuff.. and final pwash. last wash didn't see any oily residue.. so am feeling good about it.
let her drip dry then hit with the wire wheel to knockt he loose stuff off, then blew off with air gun.
might get to priming chassie on friday
all tin is now painted.
have done -0- work on the rims.. am saving them for last.
pressure washed the chassie, then degreased with foamy engine cleaner.. then pwashed again.. then hit it with purple stuff.. pwash, then more purple stuff.. and final pwash. last wash didn't see any oily residue.. so am feeling good about it.
let her drip dry then hit with the wire wheel to knockt he loose stuff off, then blew off with air gun.
might get to priming chassie on friday
SupplySergeant
New member
I was afraid of that
Sound labor-intensive, but I bet it makes for a better paint surface than sandblasting.
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Soundguy
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sand blasting is no where in my list of choices for refinishing a tractor... the media gets everywhere.. in places it shouldnt.. and it can deform thin sheet metal.
finish product is generally about 75% prep, 20% skill, and 5% product.
you can put 40 hours of hand work into job, and if you have had enough practice to shoot without runs, you can use 25$ a gallon paint and end up with a great looking finish.
conversly.. 5 hours of prep and 200$ a gallon paint are gonna look like crud... painted crud...
soundguy
whodat526
Veteran Member
HAVE U EVER TRIED STRIP EASE ON THE TINS I WAS WONDERING HOW T WOULD WORK
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i've had mixed results with strippers (uh.. yeah..
) to me.. since you have to ladle them on, wait, then spray em off, then retreat.. etc.. etc.. then get to finish work like sanding.. it's just as easy to use a 3m abrasive pad a wire cup, or electrolysis.I have found that even on stripped metal that used a chemical stripper.. I still had to buff over it to remove all paint.. and of course if there is any rust.. the stripper won't tough it.. still got to mechanically remove it.
add that to the cost of the stripper ( and the paint remover
) and it's just cheaper to do it by hand.... boy.. where is this thread goin.... soundguy