Need a solution for a worn pto splined shaft/female coupler for KUTBOTA L24DT

[City Farmer]

Is it possible to mill the coupler square? Then build up the worn out shaft with some weld or weld some square stock on the end? If the coupler gets to thin in the corners you can weld a bushing around the OD.

 

[Farmerford]

The splined sleeve is almost certainly low carbon steel, probably with lead for easy machining. With an oxy/acetylene torch, heat the worn end cherry red and then cool it with compressed air or an oil quench. That process will shrink the sleeve and should not make it brittle. It will shrink it more than you might expect, so heat and cool only an axial strip 1/2 inch or so wide at the time, and test it on the shaft after each try.

If that does not tighten it up enough, saw four radial slits in the splined end the length of the splines. V out each groove with a grinder and weld a bead in the groove. When the weld cools it will further pull the parts of the sleeve together across the saw slits.

 

[L355SS]

Please let us know what you finally decided to do to correct this issue. I have the same problem on my 80's L355 and for a temporary fix am using the internal hydraulics to work the loader but it is painfully slow after using the loader with the external pump. My neighbor has the L295 Kubota and uses the internal pump for his loader (smaller lift cylinders so more responsive). There is a block (should be) on the left upper rear diff (under the seat) that you can plumb into for any remote hydraulic uses.
The PTO flange (shown in your 1st picture) on mine is (excuse me 'WAS') 27? spline.
Dennis

 

[SPYDERLK]

All great ideas, especially the hydraulic hose ones - but do you see the first post to this thread and the second of the three photos therein? The PTO shaft is much thicker (even in its worn state) than the smaller shaft that gets connected to the other end of the female coupler i have. The hydraulic hose idea with clamps should solve the problem of the worn shaft, but I am left with the problem of connecting the hydraulic hose to that keyed shaft.

Just bush the smaller shaft. Use Loctite #638 to affix the bushing.
larry

 

[NoTractorExpert]

Just bush the smaller shaft. Use Loctite #638 to affix the bushing.
larry

I am not sure I understand what you are recommending Spyderlk.... Can you elaborate at all? Thx for the help.

 

[NoTractorExpert]

Please let us know what you finally decided to do to correct this issue. I have the same problem on my 80's L355 and for a temporary fix am using the internal hydraulics to work the loader but it is painfully slow after using the loader with the external pump. My neighbor has the L295 Kubota and uses the internal pump for his loader (smaller lift cylinders so more responsive). There is a block (should be) on the left upper rear diff (under the seat) that you can plumb into for any remote hydraulic uses.
The PTO flange (shown in your 1st picture) on mine is (excuse me 'WAS') 27? spline.
Dennis

I needed a temporary quick fix until the weather gets warm (because it is winter, I have no garage and I need to plow my 500 ft driveway), so I jammed JB Weld into the female coupler and coated the worn output shaft with it. I tried to put enough, but not so much it would leak out everywhere. Once I got a sufficient amount on, I slammed those suckers together.

I should mention that prior to applying the JB Weld, I assembled the rod that runs between the worn female coupler and the pump with the worn female coupler fastened to it just like it is normally assembled. I assembled it dry and marked where I wanted each coupler (there are a few along the way between the worn female coupler and the pump, mine also has the double chain sprocket on it too) to meet the shaft. I did this to make sure that once I slammed the worn coupler on the worn shaft with the JB Weld in it, the total length of the shaft would be correct. I figured I would not have time to screw around with all the set screws along the shaft once the JB Weld started to harden. I put locktite on all set screw to make sure they would not back out on me.

Once it all looked like I wanted it, I pushed the assembled shaft, with the female coupler on it (full of JB Weld) onto the worn shaft. The only thing left was to seat the hydraulic pump into the coupling at the far side of the shaft, bolt the hydraulic pump back onto the frame and fasten the last pair of set screws which attach the far end of the rod onto the hydraulic pump. Quite a massive pain in the *** trying to get my hands in such a small space to tighten the last pair of set screws, but I did it. I figured I had to do it this way to make sure the total length of the shaft would be correct. The double chain sprocket provides for some play and hopefully will prevent significant force on the worn shaft.

I left it harden overnight with my block heater plugged in. Again, no garage and it is 23 degrees out and I was worried about the JB Weld curing properly. The heater kept the engine warm, as well as the shaft and coupling.

I just started it up and WAH LAH, it appears to have worked. I know all you fabrication/exhaust sniffing snobs will tell me it was a stupid idea. I reason that the shaft and coupling are shot, so if it does not hold, I am no worse off. I never use the tractor without the loader on it. IF the loader does not work, the tractor is almost useless to me.

Lots of folks told me this will not work. Time will tell. The weld may give out, or the rod may fail somewhere along the way. But for now I can plow my driveway again!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Just bush the smaller shaft. Use Loctite #638 to affix the bushing.
larry

I am not sure I understand what you are recommending Spyderlk.... Can you elaborate at all? Thx for the help.

I needed a temporary quick fix until the weather gets warm (because it is winter, I have no garage and I need to plow my 500 ft driveway), so I jammed JB Weld into the female coupler and coated the worn output shaft with it. I tried to put enough, but not so much it would leak out everywhere. Once I got a sufficient amount on, I slammed those suckers together.

I should mention that prior to applying the JB Weld, I assembled the rod that runs between the worn female coupler and the pump with the worn female coupler fastened to it just like it is normally assembled. I assembled it dry and marked where I wanted each coupler (there are a few along the way between the worn female coupler and the pump, mine also has the double chain sprocket on it too) to meet the shaft. I did this to make sure that once I slammed the worn coupler on the worn shaft with the JB Weld in it, the total length of the shaft would be correct. I figured I would not have time to screw around with all the set screws along the shaft once the JB Weld started to harden. I put locktite on all set screw to make sure they would not back out on me.

Once it all looked like I wanted it, I pushed the assembled shaft, with the female coupler on it (full of JB Weld) onto the worn shaft. The only thing left was to seat the hydraulic pump into the coupling at the far side of the shaft, bolt the hydraulic pump back onto the frame and fasten the last pair of set screws which attach the far end of the rod onto the hydraulic pump. Quite a massive pain in the *** trying to get my hands in such a small space to tighten the last pair of set screws, but I did it. I figured I had to do it this way to make sure the total length of the shaft would be correct. The double chain sprocket provides for some play and hopefully will prevent significant force on the worn shaft.

I left it harden overnight with my block heater plugged in. Again, no garage and it is 23 degrees out and I was worried about the JB Weld curing properly. The heater kept the engine warm, as well as the shaft and coupling.

I just started it up and WAH LAH, it appears to have worked. I know all you fabrication/exhaust sniffing snobs will tell me it was a stupid idea. I reason that the shaft and coupling are shot, so if it does not hold, I am no worse off. I never use the tractor without the loader on it. IF the loader does not work, the tractor is almost useless to me.

Lots of folks told me this will not work. Time will tell. The weld may give out, or the rod may fail somewhere along the way. But for now I can plow my driveway again!

Sorry ... Didnt see your earlier question. -- Youve essentially done what what I was saying. You just made the bushing in place out of JB epoxy. I was thinking more of a commercial spline bushing shell to fit over the worn shaft. It would be slipped over the shaft with a Loctite high strength retaining compound in between. Once hardened you would have a new spline shaft of larger size - or round if orig spline to round outside is available [probably]. Yould then machiine out the coupler to fit it or get a coupler for that new size. A split coupler that clamps to round would do great over eitherround or spline. ... But youve made it workable w/o any machining.:thumbsup:
larry

 

[bmb196122011]

Mine has the same problem style between coupler and pump.

 

[jimwilly]

I think I may have discovered the "holy grail" of old Kubota parts.
My L245DT has the newer style flex coupling at the pump end & my coupler & PTO shaft splines are stripped/damaged.
After calling several Kubota dealers I was referred to a location that had a Parts person who had 30+ years experience.
This nice Lady dug through her old notes & binders & came up with the attached PDF file.
Note page 2 is for L245DT the 1st page is for a similar tractor, more for information purposes.
Long story short I was able to order the Flange which bolts to the pulley & a new coupler + the 3 bolts only, nothing else was available.
The new flange fits over the 18 spline shaft & will be 26 spline with the new coupler being 26 spline.
My hope is the existing pulley is pre-drilled & tapped to accept the new flange.
There was no shaft available so hopefully I can have my old coupling cut off & the new one welded on.
Once I get the parts I have to line everything up & mark the old shaft for the correct length.
I am currently running the tractor with the shaft removed & I strapped up the loader arms to the front protective grill.

 

[jimwilly]

I got my parts today, the new coupler is much wider than the old one.
Looks like I may have to dremel tool repair the old PTO shaft splines to get the
new flange to fit properly over the old shaft.
Still not sure how the old shaft will connect to the new coupler, machine shop/welding job for sure.