Need Remote(s), Have Questions

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is my understanding that the rake goes 15 degrees side to side, like twisting it from the top (Z axis). What difference would float make on uneven ground with this kind of possible movement?)</font>

Absolutely none.

Float on a remote would not be needed for this type of application. However there are some applications, like a cylinder that raises and lowers a mower, where a float on a remote might be helpful.

 

[TORQUIN]

So the first remote will have no float. Is float useful for a top-n-tilt, for either the top or tilt? In theory it seems like it could be useful, but usually, in those situations the implement has been designed to allow movement, such as with a rotary cutter and the slot the top link connects to.
That said, I'd like to know if anyone else has float on their TnT setup, and how useful it is in real life.

And MAd, may I call you Mad, thanks a lot for the valuable info you have supplied.
And thanks to everyone else who has tried to answer my questions.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> That said, I'd like to know if anyone else has float on their TnT setup, and how useful it is in real life. </font>

I have float on one remote that I can use for either top or tilt.

I think it will be useful when using my brush hog, to put the top cylinder in float, which will add to the range of movement permitted by the existing swinging linkage(for lack of a better term). Probably not necessary, but can't hurt.

For the tilt cylinder, I like having float available there. For example, with compound curves in my driveway, when using the rear blade for snow removal, the float helps the blade to follow the curves without digging in on the high side, riding up in the air on the low side. Same when using the landscape rake to move gravel around on the driveway, when the intention is to have a more or less uniform amount of crushed stone down, again when compound curves are involved.

Perhaps the float seems to help because my rear blade and rake are wider than the tractor's rear wheels. Anyway, float on the tilt cylinder seems to be useful at least some of the time. I don't mind having it. If I were doing it again, I would add it...

 

[TORQUIN]

Henro,
Thanks for the real-world experience info.

Chris

 

[4x4sche]

I agree that the Kubota parts are the best option. If you go for the float valves, and have check valves on the top or tilt cylinder...they will not float!

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( And MAd, may I call you Mad, thanks a lot for the valuable info you have supplied.)</font>

Sure. I have been called worse. For instance yesterday, by the college soccer coach, players and several unsportsmanlike fans all of whom shall remain nameless. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DDT]

Chris, You will not need float for the hyd angle, but if your going to have a hyd top link then float is very handy. I should have been clearer. This will let the rake follow the conture of the ground to give a better finished job.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Chris, You will not need float for the hyd angle, but if your going to have a hyd top link then float is very handy. I should have been clearer. This will let the rake follow the conture of the ground to give a better finished job. )</font>

Not exactly true.

Placing the 3pt control in float will allow the rake to follow the contour of the ground.

Putting a top link in float will only cause the rake's angle of attack to be deeper or shallower, depending on which side of the spool has the float.

Having a set of gauge wheels and placing the 3pt in float is the best method for contour following.

Furthermore, as a previous poster mentioned, if your HTL cylinder has check valves then it cannot float. However, having check valves is 100 times better than not having them, especially if you want the HTL to stay in position and not drift. Check valves are far more advantageous than having a spool with float for the HTL.

 

[TORQUIN]

Called the local dealer today. 640.00 for the kit. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Now, Mad, on the check valves, I must have missed something on that. How does a check valve work if it is on the cylinder? My understanding is that a check valve allows fluid flow one way. If this is the cae, how does the fluid get back out of the cylinder when you want it to? I thought this was why, if you did not have weight to contract the cylinder, you had a bi-directional cylinder (or whatever the proper name is) than was forced to contract. The control valve not leaking would be the effective check-valve.
Please fill me in on what I missed. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks,
Chris

 

[DDT]

MadReferee
I do not think I am getting my point acrossvery good.
He is getting a Harley power rake. T-6 model. There is hyd angle for the roller, it angle like a rear blade to pull dirt to one side or the other (float not needed hear) There is gauge wheels on the back of the power rake, You set the 3 point so the rake is cutting in 2" deep. From here you do not raise or lower the 3 point. Now with a hyd top link in float and when the tractor goes over rough ground the power rake will follow the conture of the ground seperate from the tractor. It will fill in low spots and take off high spots since the gauges whells are on the back of the rake. This will produce a level yard.